A weekend guide to Manhattan's legendary Chinatown

Fun fact: New York City has nine Chinatowns, from a hipster Chinatown in the East Village to a fast-growing Chinatown in Flushing, Queens. But Manhattan’s Chinatown is the granddaddy of them all, with a mix of Asian cultures — from Cantonese to Fujianese to Vietnamese. It’s a blended, historic neighborhood that put down its roots in the late 1880s. The pandemic has taken its toll, but as The New York Times put it, Chinatown is coming back one noodle at a time.

For the latest installment of our New York City Staycation series, we’re taking a subway ride downtown to go on a trip around the world with two neighborhood insiders. They'll show you how to navigate Chinatown's buzzing streets, find the best dim sum, and discover gems like farm-fresh eggs in a shade of blue you won’t believe was produced in nature.

Meet Yin Kong, the founder and director of Think! Chinatown, a nonprofit that intersects storytelling, the arts, and neighborhood engagement. Yin is devoted to lifting up her community and also showing visitors how to best experience Chinatown. “It’s a special place for Chinese and Asian Americans who think of it as a cultural home,” says Yin. “My neighborhood is also special for visitors — since it feels like traveling to a different country. The smells and sounds are different than any other neighborhood.”

Then there’s our other insider, Mike Chen, a food-obsessed YouTuber whose Strictly Dumpling channel captivates millions of followers with deliciously entertaining videos. “I always say that the best way to experience a different culture is taking a bite out of it because food has such a huge impact when it comes to exploring a place or learning about a culture,” says Mike. “Food is universal.”

Born in China and raised in the Midwest, Mike Chen moved to New York City a couple of decades ago and got to know Chinatown while working as a wedding videographer in the neighborhood before launching Strictly Dumpling. These days, the peripatetic foodie jets around the globe on eating trips, but there’s nothing like going back to Chinatown, revisiting favorite places and discovering new ones. “I’m a little obsessive when it comes to food. So I don’t want to waste a meal and think, ‘That was a waste of stomach space.’” Here are his go-to spots.

Breakfast bites: Yi Ji Shi Mo - “The rice noodles are delicious. It’s a very traditional Cantonese breakfast and this place makes it so well,” says Mike.

Dim sum: Golden Unicorn - Now that the legendary Jin Fong has closed, this is where Mike recommends going. (And an important tip: Dim sum is a breakfast food.) “The Golden Unicorn is an institution that’s been around for a long time,” says Mike. “Sometimes the choices can be overwhelming, so I recommend getting har gao (shrimp dumplings) and cheung fun (a steamed rice roll). And this is a unique one to non-Asians, but I suggest trying fung jao (chicken feet) because it’s something that a Chinese family would never be without when they go for dim sum.”

Cheap eat: Wah Fung Fast Food - Mike has been frequenting this hole-in-the-wall since his wedding videographer days. “I used to go here as often as I could. It’s the biggest bargain,” he says. “They give you a lot of rice and tons of meat with glistening juice — it’s absolutely delicious.”

Best dumplings: Shu Jiao Fu Zhou Cuisine - “Some people go here for the peanut noodles, but it’s the dumplings that I love. The wrappers are so thin and the fillings are so big,” says Mike. “I've always claimed that this place has the best dumplings in Manhattan.”

▶️ Want to explore Chinatown with Mike Chen? Video: Eating New York Chinatown

When Think! Chinatown founder Yin Kong moved to Chinatown, she immediately felt a deep connection. “Chinatown is a place where I can be Chinese-American, quite comfortably,” she says. One of the things she loves most about the neighborhood is being able to shop for artisanal food products and other authentic finds. "It’s so special to have places that still make things using traditional techniques," she says.

Chinese sausage: Sun Ming Jan - “There’s only one Chinese charcuterie shop left and they make so many varieties of lap cheong (the Cantonese name for Chinese sausage), from sweet to salty,” says Yin. “They also have raw salted duck egg, which is really hard to find, and they make joong (bamboo-wrapped rice) using their own sausage.”

Noodles and tofu: Sun Hing Lung - “I used to live on Henry Street, and I’m so happy this place reopened,” says Yin. “They have this machine that makes giant sheets of rice noodles that you can bring home to stir-fry or steam.” Besides that, you’ll find all sorts of tofu products: soy milk, fresh blocks of tofu, and grass jelly.

And more tofu: Kong Kee - Another tofu destination on Yin's radar is Kong Kee. “This has a bigger footprint than Sun Hing Lung and so many varieties of tofu: fried tofu, five-spice seasoned smoked tofu, tofu puddings, plus gui ling gao (herbal jellies), soy milk, and more.”

Eggs: G&J Florists - “They host a farm stall in front of the shop and they sell beautiful eggs. I devoted a social post to the eggs that they have there — rich, creamy duck eggs and the kind of blue heritage chicken eggs that Martha Stewart raises herself.”

Plants and produce: Stalls on Grand and Elizabeth Streets - Yin lives on the corner of Grand and Elizabeth, which she calls “the best intersection in the world.” There, vendors set up small stalls every afternoon, selling plants and farm-fresh products. “It’s a lot more affordable than the Union Square Farmers Market,” says Yin. “I just bought a big mint plant.”

Fashion finds: Stalls on Bowery and Grand Streets - “If you want to get some fun clothes, the sidewalk stalls here sell brightly patterned outfits that you’ll see Chinese aunties wear and fashion statement pieces,” says Yin.

Both Mike and Yin recommend walking around and getting lost. “Chinatown is extensive, so don't limit yourself to the popular streets,” says Mike. “Go where the locals go.” Here are some locations not to miss:

Doyers Street - “This is a super interesting street, not only because of the food that’s there, but because it’s very historic,” says Mike. “This was the center of Chinatown and it all blossomed from this street. There was also some unsavory history: This was the battleground for the gangs of Chinatown and it was really bloody.”

East Broadway - “I really encourage people to head this way, because a lot of times people go to Chinatown on foot and they stay in the historic core area,” says Yin. “Keep going east and explore. There are a lot of shops here [selling] fresh produce, fresh seafood.”

Sara D. Roosevelt Park - “Something’s always happening on the track, usually Guangdong plaza dancing, ladies practicing Kung Fu, or people playing cards,” says Yin.

Columbus Park - “You’ll hear people singing songs or playing instruments. You’ll see very animated games of Chinese chess,” says Yin. “They also have tables there, so it’s a great place to grab something to eat and hang out at the park.”

There aren’t many hotels right in Chinatown, but check out these spots in and around the area. Or you can stay like a local at an Airbnb.

For Instagrammers: Hotel 50 Bowery - Overlooking Bowery, New York’s oldest thoroughfare, this boutique hotel provides easy access to Chinatown and has an on-site gallery run by the Museum of Chinese in America.

For a cheap sleep: Walker Hotel Tribeca - Just over the border from Chinatown in the Tribeca neighborhood, the Walker has a simple and clean look, plus a seasonal rooftop bar overlooking the city.

For living like a local: Lower Manhattan Gem - Set right in the middle of Chinatown, this Airbnb from a Superhost gives you easy access to all the action. (And we love the Keith Haring wallpaper.)