Weekend in Kingston: Hudson Valley's hot new destination

We’ve said it before and we’ll say it again: The WeekEnder loves the Hudson Valley. This time around, we’re headed to Kingston, a riverfront enclave in Ulster County that was the most important port between New York City and Albany in the 19th century. Look around and you’ll see remnants of the factories that helped build New York City and historic landmarks like a Dutch church dating to the 17th century.

What makes Kingston appealing today: “We’ve taken the history and continued to modernize it,” says John Blue, co-owner of Blue-Byrd’s Haberdashery and Music, which sells vinyl and CDs, signed lithographs, and hats from around the globe. After meeting his wife, Maureen Byrd — a passionate Kingstonian — she convinced him to move to her hometown. Now, they are fixtures in this small city: John also has a weekly blues show on the local radio station and Maureen is the head of parks and recreation. Visitors to their shop can get a crash course in everything Kingston.

“We have so many unique things here — the Hudson River, an old trolley, bike trails, parks, tremendous eateries, a small petting zoo, sports, arts, music, agriculture,” says John. “If you can’t find something, just stop and ask someone. This is a safe, welcoming, and diverse community where everyone is willing to help a stranger.”

Well, almost everyone. Another Kingston transplant is Raleigh Green, who left New York City a dozen years ago and opened an advertising agency here. He jokes that the locals will tell you about everything – except their favorite swimming holes. “If I told you, I’d be toast in this community,” Raleigh says with a laugh.

Still, you’ll find a lot to love (including a beach along the Hudson River). “It’s the best of all worlds — it’s a big enough city to have its own identity, it’s not too polished like some other Hudson River towns, and you’re literally a hop, skip, and a jump to the Catskills,” says Raleigh.

Here’s the other good news: Even if you can’t get someone to tell you about their secret swimming holes, you’re guaranteed to have a good time with this handy WeekEnder guide.

There aren’t many hotels in Kingston, but the ones that are here are loaded with style and charm.

For Instagrammers: Hutton Brickyards - A former foundry set on 73 rambling acres has been converted into this picture-perfect resort with a roving afternoon drinks cart, fire pits, riverside yoga, and 31 sleek cabins and suites.

For history buffs: Hotel Kinsley - This hotel is a collection of four carefully restored historic buildings, including a 19th-century bank and a 1680s Georgian stone residence.

For sweethearts: The Forsyth B&B - In an 1830’s brick home in Kingston’s historic waterfront district, this boutique hotel is run by a chef and an architect, and it shows — think sophisticated decor and three-course breakfasts.

“I’m a good eater and I can attest that whatever kind of food you’re looking for, you’ll find it in Kingston,” says John Blue. “French, Caribbean, tacos, barbecue, fresh bread — it’s all here.”

Rosie General - A general store known for its handmade treats and a menu of breakfast sandwiches made with ingredients sourced nearby like Hudson Valley cheddar.

Sissy’s Café - Cleansing raw juices, filling smoothies, gigantic salads, and the best hot cheesy panini in town.

Deising’s Bakery - A family-friendly staple where everything is made from scratch and breakfast is served all day.

Rough Draft Bar & Books - Set in the historic Four Corners district, this indie bookshop, bar, and café sells microbrews, wine, coffee, savory pies, and plenty of good reads.

Village Coffee and Goods - This gathering place serves breakfast and lunch along with provisions for your pantry and home.

Half Moon Rondout Café - Donuts are made to order and delivered piping hot at this waterfront coffee shop. “They just dissolve in your mouth,” says Raleigh Green.

Ole Savannah - Located on the water in the Rondout neighborhood, this restaurant is known for authentic Southern delicacies with a modern twist, like 24-hour buttermilk-brined fried chicken wings.

Kingston Bread & Bar - The founder of Rough Draft also started this bakery and sandwich shop with snacks and drinks from area suppliers, as well as the best handmade bread in the Hudson Valley.

Black-Eyed Suzie’s Upstate - Grab-and-go comfort food, from tarragon egg salad on seeded crispbread to an Earl Grey tea cake.

Lola Pizza - A dreamy spot from a James Beard Award-winning restaurateur with outdoor dining under string lights, plus wood-fired pizzas and house-made pastas.

Dallas Hot Weiners - Once you try the legendary hot dogs and their famous secret sauce, you’ll understand why Kingstonians and tourists can’t get enough of this neighborhood landmark.

Joe Beez - A deli that’s famous for its sandwiches in endless combinations.

Buns Burgers - Farmers like the Kilcoyne family provide Buns Burgers with the freshest ingredients. The delicious results: grass-fed beef burgers, hand-cut fries, and ice cream made from locally sourced milk.

Top Taste - This hole-in-the-wall was nominated for a James Beard award in 2022, thanks to its divine jerk chicken, curry goat, stewed oxtail, and other Jamaican specialties.

Yum Yum Noodle Bar - An impressive selection of Japanese noodle bowls and Southeast Asian street food.

Masa Midtown - Grab a seat at the bar and sample Mediterranean dishes so authentic they feel like they were flown in from Turkey.

The Tortilla Taco Bar - A Rondout district standby with tacos, tortas, quesadillas, vampiros, and a long list of tequilas and mezcals.

Ship to Shore - With the turn of each season, Ship to Shore introduces a new menu, cocktail list, and wine list. “It’s my favorite restaurant and it’s very happening,” says Raleigh.

Le Canard Enchaine - Authentic French cuisine in a charming space that feels like you've been transported to a little bistro on the Left Bank of Paris. “From the French onion soup to the escargot to the gorgeous desserts, you can not have a bad meal,” says Raleigh.

The River Pavilion - Open panoramas of the Hudson River set the stage for an unforgettable dining experience at this restaurant at the Hutton Brickyards hotel.

Restaurant Kinsley - This modern oasis captures the vibrant energy of today’s Kingston with new American classics like tuna tacos and a Wagyu ribeye with horseradish crème fraîche.

Front Street Tavern - Craft cocktails and pub grub (fried chicken, shepherds pie) served on a rooftop with a fabulous uptown view.

Brunette Wine Bar - A natural wine bar in a 19th century building with a sophisticated selection of small plates like a Quebec shrimp roll and trout roe nachos.

Sweet Maresa’s - This bakeshop is focused on crafting ethically sourced handmade desserts with vegan and fair-trade ingredients.

Kingston Candy Bar - Sweets, baked goods, fresh donuts, and tipsy milkshakes. Don’t miss the donut ice cream cones.

The Jolly Cow - For over 50 years, this quirky little roadside stand has been making the best soft serve ice cream in every flavor imaginable.

From a new state park that honors a legendary abolitionist to cruises on the Hudson River, Kingston’s natural offerings are vast.

Sojourner Truth State Park - The first state park in Kingston, this impressive destination honors Isabella Baumfree, who was born in a nearby Ulster County town. She later freed herself from slavery, changed her name to Sojourner Truth, and traveled the country speaking as an abolitionist and suffragist. The park encompasses more than 500 acres along the Hudson River shoreline with majestic views of the valley and the Catskill Mountains.

Empire State Trail Kingston Extension - This 6.5-mile Empire State Trail meanders through Kingston, offering a pair of off-road paths for walkers and bicyclists of all abilities.

Hudson River Cruises - Take a narrated sightseeing trip or a music cruise aboard the three-deck Rip Van Winkle II, which looks like an old steamboat and introduces its passengers to the beauty of the Hudson River.

Tivoli Sailing Company - Learn how to sail or just enjoy the experience of being on the Hudson River, zipping between Kingston, Rhinecliff, and Saugerties.

A Day Away Kayak Rentals - This watersports company on Rondout Creek rents out single-seat kayaks, tandem kayaks, canoes, electric boats, and stand-up paddle boards.

Kingston Midtown Linear Park - A mile-long walk along an old railroad track. “It’s Kingston’s version of the High Line,” says Raleigh Green.

Kingston has a rich and sometimes complicated history, not to mention an exciting arts scene.

Hudson River Maritime Museum - Check out Kingston’s nautical past: historic vessels, paintings, artifacts, ship models, and more.

Friends of Historic Kingston - Take a guided architectural stroll through historic uptown and see highlights like a Dutch church built in the 1600s and the original stockade village.

Pine Street African Burial Ground - A sacred site that was used as a burial ground for enslaved Africans from the 1700s to the mid 1800s.

Reher Center for Immigrant Culture and History - This institution preserves the area’s history of immigration through exhibitions like “Sewing In Kingston,” which showcases the people who made the local garment manufacturing industry possible.

Ulster Performing Arts Center - This historic theater hosts theater, dance, music, opera, and more. “World-renowned acts come through here,” says John Blue.

There’s plenty of entertainment for visitors of all ages. Here are a few spots that the kids will love.

Forsyth Nature Center - This outdoor learning center fosters a connection to the natural world with more than two dozen animal exhibits and gardens.

Trolley Museum of New York - You’ll find displays of subway cars from the U.S. and Europe. But it’s more than just a museum: You can also take a 1.5-mile trolley ride from down­town Kingston to the shores of the Hudson River.

Catskill Mountain Railroad - This heritage railroad hosts a number of fun explorations, including an hour-long Ice Cream Ride every Sunday, plus tours on the Catskill Flyer, which crosses through some of the oldest farmlands in the United States.

Seed Song Farm & Center - Get back to the land with seasonal festivals, farm meals, live music, and events every weekend.

Kingston is filled with artisans and retailers who value craftsmanship and individuality.

Blue-Byrd’s Haberdashery & Music - This purveyor of fine hats from Kingston and as far as away as Africa and South America also sells hard-to-find blues music on CD and vinyl.

Kingston Farmers Market - An epic farmers market held on Saturdays with vendors from around the region. “It’s fun. You can go from tent to tent, bring your dogs, and there’s live music,” says Raleigh.

Zaborski Emporium - “This place has four floors of antiques,” says Raleigh. “You could get lost looking at doorknobs and hinges and stained glass windows and on and on.”

Eleven Six - This design studio in the historic Fuller Building collaborates with highly skilled artisans in Peru to craft luxurious, sustainable knitwear.

Exit Nineteen - An unexpected and ever-changing mix of mid-century furniture and newer hand-selected pieces with incredible style.

Lovefield Vintage - Thoughtfully curated vintage clothing, accessories, jewelry, and more.

Hamilton and Adams - Casual clothing, skincare products, and uniquely curated curiosities.

Sassafras Mercantile - This metaphysical mercantile is a witchy, queer feminist store centered around healing and wellness, with gifts, zines, oils, potions, and more.

Facets of Earth - Handcrafted jewelry using ethically sourced stones and recycled precious metals.