The DE download: Sayulita, Mexico

As told to Chelsea Bengier

My husband and I have been traveling along the Bahía de Banderas (north of Puerto Vallarta) for the last eight years. When we retired, we decided to settle in Bucerías, about half an hour from Sayulita.

Sayulita is an incredible beach town on the Pacific. It's got a very bohemian vibe and was originally put on the traveler's map in the 1960s for its excellent surfing. The main beach in downtown Sayulita still has great surf schools, but it can get crowded in high season. If you walk up the beach, you’ll find more relaxed, secluded areas. Or, you can rent a golf cart (the best way to get around Sayulita) and drive to Playa de los Muertos, an intimate beach a short jaunt outside of town.

When I’m in Sayulita, I always eat at Don Pedro’s. It’s the nicest beachfront restaurant that serves wine by the glass and a wonderful Mexican salad with chicken, cotija cheese, and pine nuts. I don't know what they make the dressing out of but it is so delicious! Another great waterfront restaurant is Alas Blancas, meaning white wings in Spanish. The chef cooks a terrific Mahi Mahi with rice and vegetables. For family-style dinner, don't miss Sayulita Café, a long-standing spot that makes traditional Mexican fare and excellent margaritas.

The town is extremely colorful and creative. You’ll find great shops to buy authentic Mexican wares, talavera pottery, silver jewelry, and handmade textiles. A few favorite haunts: Evoke the Spirit and Pachamama for home decor, crafts, and art. During the high season, you'll find farmers markets every day of the week with vendors selling local coffee, organic herbs, fruits and vegetables, homemade breads, cheeses, and more. Sayulita’s Mercado del Pueblo is smaller and more residential while the one in La Cruz on Sundays is the bomb!

If you want to explore around Sayulita, I highly recommend a day trip to San Francisco (commonly called San Pancho). It’s a tiny town with a sleepy beach that has a strong break for surfers. For a day of R&R, continue down the main road to Higuera Blanca and make a reservation at Litibu Grill, which has an immaculate stretch of sand with cabana beds, or hit the links at Litibú Golf Course. Keep going south, and you’ll reach Punta Mita and the Four Seasons Resort. When we’re here, we always eat at the waterfront seafood restaurant, Lobster Paradise.

It's all about the outdoors in and around Sayulita. Ally Cat is a local outfitter that offers snorkeling trips around Islas Marietas, a UNESCO-protected biosphere reserve, while Vallarta Adventures has boat cruises to Los Arcos near Puerto Vallarta. For hikers, Monkey Mountain is a wonderful trek with views of the bay, and bird-watchers can take a tour out of San Pancho to see the wildlife. There are so many activities here for both hard core and soft adventurers. You'll never get bored!

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