4 can't-miss neighborhoods in Mexico City


Mexico City (or CDMX as it's known) is mind bogglingly big—it's the sixth largest city in the world and home to nearly 9 million people. But don’t let that overwhelm you; if you break the sprawling capital down by colonias (neighborhoods), it’ll feel a lot less intimidating and easier to navigate.
As a local, there are few things I love more than getting lost in my city’s colonias, walking around—sometimes aimlessly—and discovering their unique personalities and secrets. There's tons to discover on just about every corner, but the four neighborhoods of Condesa, Coyoacán, Polanco, and Roma include everything that makes this city so fantastic: history, architecture, great food, and art. Lucky for you, I’ve created the ultimate guide for each area, so you’ll know exactly where to go (and what to skip) on your next trip.
For culture and the cool factor: Roma

With dozens of the city’s trendiest restaurants, coffee shops, art galleries, and bars, Roma is a blast to explore, especially for architecture and culture buffs. During President Porfirio Díaz famously long presidency—three decades!—Díaz had a mission to beautify the city, and Roma is the living proof. Wealthy families built stunning Art Deco and neocolonial mansions, which today have been turned into must-see spots like Casa Lamm Cultural Center (check out the center's art exhibits, then grab a bite at its new restaurant, Nueve Nueve).
One of my favorite ways to spend the afternoon in Roma is to fuel up with coffee at Almanegra and stroll through Plaza Río de Janeiro, a park centered around a fountain with a replica of Michaelangelo’s David. On one of the corners, you’ll spot a stunning gothic brick building: Edificio Río de Janeiro, also known as Casa de las Brujas. Make sure you stop at Bar Las Brujas, located on the building’s ground floor, for a cocktail or two. This female-led bar pours delicious concoctions, inspired by Mexico’s mystical tradition of herbalism and shamanism. For lunch or dinner, you can’t go wrong with La Docena, a seafood temple on Álvaro Obregón Avenue. My rec: Share appetizers (the fresh oysters are a must) and entrées like grilled octopus or whole fish, and pair them with a fabulous selection of Mexican wines.
Where to stay
A stunning 1913 mansion—reimagined with flawless contemporary details—Casa Ignacia is steps away from the action in Roma, yet feels like it's own mini oasis. Start your morning with a cup of coffee among the cacti in the garden.
For high-end shopping and dining: Polanco

Polanco was once a business district, but has become one of the prettiest neighborhoods to indulge in some high-end shopping, good food, and people-watching.
A perfect place to start is Presidente Masaryk, an avenue lined with designer boutiques (think: Louis Vuitton, Cartier, and Montblanc). Should you need a break, head to Parque Lincoln. It's surrounded by countless restaurants, ranging from the always lively La Barra de Fran, known for its Spanish specialties, to my longtime favorite Bellopuerto, a casual seafood joint (get there early because tables fill up quickly).
At the Antara outdoor mall, you'll find more big-name brands and plenty of restaurants. Of course, not everything in Polanco is pure hedonism. It's got two of the city’s most interesting museums, in my opinion: the spaceship-like Museo Soumaya, which holds masterpieces from artists such as Auguste Rodin, Diego Rivera, and Rufino Tamayo; and Museo Jumex, a contemporary art paradise. Both museums are open seven days a week and entrance is free, so it's super easy to plan your visit. But I recommend going early in the morning on a weekday to avoid crowds.
Where to stay
If you're with your partner, I love Las Alcobas for its gorgeous, modern interiors by Yabu Pushelberg and the intimate spa. The warm yet sophisticated atmosphere makes you feel right at home–so much so that I’ve taken a couple of staycations here.
For historic art and charm: Coyoacán

With its quaint cobblestone streets and colorful houses, Coyoacán has plenty of eye-candy and history. Its beating heart is Jardín Centenario, with fountain with and statue of two coyotes—the symbol of Coyoacán.
Most visitors go to Coyoacán to check out the Museo Frida Kahlo, and with good reason. The famous artist spent most of her life in this stunning house (called “Casa Azul”), so you’ll get a glimpse into her life. My favorite room is the kitchen, and don't miss the peacocks parading around the garden. Tip: Make sure to book your tickets a few weeks in advance, as this is one of the most popular museums.
You can’t come to Mexico City without wandering through the markets and Coyoacán has several you should check out. Mercado de Coyoacán is a total trip , with stall after stall selling fresh fruits and vegetables, colorful piñatas, esoteric items, and traditional crafts. Treat yourself to a snack at Tostadas Coyoacán, a group of stands in the heart of the market. I especially love their ceviche and shrimp cocktail tostadas. For an afternoon pick me up, take a walk to the cozy coffee shop, Café Avellaneda, and try the Juanito cold drink–a blend of tamarind, espresso, kombucha, and juniper.
Where to stay
With only four guest rooms, Agata Hotel Boutique & Spa makes you feel like you're staying in the private home of a very stylish friend. My favorite part about this place: the personalized activities like cooking classes and yoga sessions on the terrace.
For bohemian vibes: Condesa

Beautiful buildings, leafy lanes, and tranquil parks make Condesa one of the loveliest and most coveted neighborhoods in Mexico City. Its streets are lined with stunning art deco architecture, with the Basurto and Princesa buildings the big standouts.
Start your day with breakfast at Molino El Pujol, a tortillería by the team behind the renowned Pujol in Polanco. A bowl of chilaquiles will fill you with energy for the day ahead. As you walk along Condesa’s tree-lined blocks, you’ll find plenty of opportunities to shop. Just steps away from Molino El Pujol, there's Librería Rosario Castellanos, a gem of a bookstore inside a former movie theater. And a short walk north is another one of my favorite stops, the made-in-Mexico accessories shop Someone Somewhere. Pick up a cool backpack or T-shirt featuring embroidery by Mexican artisans.
In the evening, unwind with a cocktail at the stylish Hotel San Fernando. If you’re feeling adventurous, ask the mixologist about the selection of Mexican spirits behind the bar. Then, head to dinner at Lardo. You can't go wrong with the octopus).
Where to stay
Sleek spaces and thoughtful amenities make Andaz Mexico City Condesa an excellent choice, especially if you have to do a bit of work while you’re in town. Don't miss the views at sunset from Cabuya, the rooftop restaurant.