Explore New Paltz: New York's most underrated mountain town





If you’ve been following The WeekEnder, then you likely share our passion for the small towns of New York’s Hudson Valley. This weekend, we’re heading to one of my favorites: New Paltz, set in the shadow of the Shawangunk Mountains (a.k.a. the Gunks), just a 90-minute drive from New York City. I was introduced to this boho-chic town many years ago by my friend, H. Scott Jolley, who works at the digital weekly, Air Mail. Scott and his partner have had a second home in the area for many years and appreciate its hippie-meets-hipster vibe.
“New Paltz is a little rough around the edges and people here embrace that,” says Scott. “Unlike some other Hudson Valley towns, New Paltz is not a ‘see and be seen’ place. New Paltz is ‘live and let live.’”

My friend Scott lives just down the road from the Inn at Kettleboro, a stylish property set on 12 acres of peach and apple orchards with spectacular views of the Gunks. The inn was founded by Robert Witkowski and his husband, Michael Aiello, who are both natives of the Hudson Valley. They had moved away for a bit, but always dreamed of returning and opening an inn in Michael’s childhood home. What they love about this area: “Everyone here has a great respect for the land and a love of the mountains.”
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In New Paltz, you’ll also meet locals like Frank Cardella, a vivacious Staten Islander who came here to attend SUNY New Paltz and never left. “I fell in love with it,” says Frank, who recently launched Franks Fresh Pickling Co., a local sandwich and provisions shop with a cult following. “There’s no other location like this, with some of the best rock climbing in the world, amazing winter sports, and high standards of food,” says Frank. “Even when it’s cold and snowing, it’s still busy.”
-Laura Begley Bloom, New York's Senior WeekEnder Writer
Editor’s Note: For the latest on Covid, visit the official New York COVID-19 information page.
Where to stay

Mohonk Mountain House
Resembling a Victorian castle, Mohonk Mountain House is the Hudson Valley’s most iconic resort. In winter, you can hike on more than 85 miles of trails, snowshoe or cross-country ski through the vast wilderness, do a forest bathing session, or go ice skating in an open-air pavilion with views of a glacial lake. After, warm up with house-made hot chocolate and roasted marshmallows around the outdoor campfires. Not to be missed: a mindfulness stroll on Eagle Cliff trail. “Guests scan various QR codes scattered throughout the trail to listen to a guided practice led by the resort’s director of mindfulness programming, Nina Smiley, whose family originally founded the hotel in 1869,” says Barbara Stirewalt, the property’s vice president and general manager.
Hotel honorable mentions:
For Instagrammers: The Inn at Kettleboro - With sweeping, picture-perfect views of the mountains, this 1830’s property was transformed into an inn in 2014. Owners Robert Witkowski and Michael Aiello have impeccable taste and serve a farm-fresh breakfast every morning.

For foodies: Watergrasshill Bed & Breakfast - Inspired by the owner’s Irish heritage, this charming four-bedroom farmhouse offers a range of hands-on cooking classes, from baking breakfast pastries to making easy sheet-pan suppers. There’s also a gift shop that sells delicious treats like cranberry scone mix.
For wellness seekers: Minnewaska Lodge - Right at the base of the Shawangunks, the Minnewaska Lodge is an upscale base for communing with nature. A recent renovation brought a new holistic focus with a peaceful sleep program, al fresco yoga and more.
Where to eat
“New Paltz has some serious food chops,” says H. Scott Jolley. “One of the reasons: The Culinary Institute of America is located right across the river.” Another reason, says Frank Cardella, founder of Frank's Fresh Pickling Co.: “There are small farms supplying excellent produce everywhere you look.”
Best breakfasts

Karma Road - Everything’s vegan and organic at this healthy spot with local artwork hanging on the walls. Don’t miss the TBTS sandwich with tempeh “bacon,” tofu scramble, tomato, lettuce, vegan mayo, and tahini dressing.
New Paltz Bagel Cafe - “The line for freshly baked bagels at this family-owned shop stretches out the door most mornings,” says Scott.
Lagusta’s Luscious Commissary - Ethically sourced vegan bites to go, from breakfast soup and ramen noodles to pickle plates and hand-crafted chocolates.
Café Mio - It’s brunch all day at this cute restaurant in Gardiner, a small town worth the detour seven miles south of New Paltz. “CIA-trained chef Michael Bernardo features local products and produce for his breakfast plates (apple-cinnamon French toast sourced apples from Gardiner mainstay Wright's Farm) and savory lunch selections (beef for the burgers comes from nearby Full Moon Farm),” says Scott.
Coffee break

Mudd Puddle Coffee Roasters - This family-owned roaster in Water Street Market sells a bit of everything — sweet treats, light bites, craft beer, even trucker hats.
The Ridge: Tea & Spice Shop - A pair of NYC expats-turned-teamongers opened this tiny storefront that stocks every kind of tea imaginable, as well as spices from around the globe.
Lunchtime

Franks Fresh Pickling Co. - Inspired by his grandmother’s cooking, Frank used to pickle local vegetables as a hobby, then decided to open a sandwich shop where everything is made from scratch. “I want to be as authentic and old-school as my grandmother was,” says Frank.
Lola’s Cafe - “The wraps and paninis are terrific,” says Scott. “My partner David loves the Brussel sprout salad; I really like the chipotle turkey panini.”
Casual bites

Huckleberry - Elevated bar food and a great happy hour. “When the weather’s good, it’s lovely to sit in the sweet outdoor courtyard with an artisanal cocktail and a snack,” says Scott.
P & G’s - “It's the Cheers of New Paltz. Everyone goes there — grandmas, frat boys/girls, bikers, young families with kids,” says Scott. “And the burgers are great.”
APizza - Rustic Italian dishes like authentic brick-fired pizza, octopus carpaccio, and meatballs topped with local ricotta.
Global bites

Ipho - “This unassuming restaurant is not much in the way of decor, but the menu — full of savory soups and other Asian treats — packs a huge flavor punch,” says Scott.
Zaytune Mediterranean Cafe - The restaurant’s name (which means “olive” in Arabic) was inspired by the owner’s family’s olive grove near the Red Sea, and the food (from shawarma to kebabs) is also rooted in Mediterranean traditions.
Date night

A Tavola Trattoria - A warm and cozy trattoria with mismatched farmhouse tables and locally sourced rustic Italian dishes.
Garvan’s - Sip drinks by the fireplace and enjoy traditional Irish hospitality in an old stone house on historic Huguenot Street.
Sweets

Hudson Valley Cheesecake - The signature Rainbow Cookie Cheesecake has made this dessert Mecca an Instagram favorite.
The Bakery - “My go-to for cakes and cookies,” says Scott.
Drinks

Coppersea Distilling - Hand-crafted whiskies made with heritage methods.
Robibero Winery - One of New York’s newest vineyards is set on 42 acres in the shadow of the Shawangunks.
Arrowood Farms - In nearby Accord, this sustainably-minded farm has a small-hops brewery and limited-release distillery for bourbon, gin, and vodka.
Things to do
Outdoors
“New Paltz is magical in the winter,” says Barbara Stirewalt of Mohonk Mountain House. “With the Shawangunk Mountains in full view throughout the town, any snowfall instantly transforms the area into a winter wonderland.” Here are a few of the best ways to experience the outdoors.

Mohonk Preserve - New York’s largest nature preserve is set right in the Shawangunks. Want to do some winter hiking or snowshoeing? Check out the Gatehouse Trailhead or the Trapps Trail Head.
River-to-Ridge Trail - This 6.2-mile trail is accessible year-round. “The River to Ridge trailhead is a popular hiking or skiing opportunity on the edge of New Paltz with a spectacular view of Mohonk’s Sky Top Tower and adjoins Mohonk Preserve’s thousands of acres,” says Barbara.

Minnewaska State Park - It’s a short and easy hike to the Awosting Falls, which look like a scene out of Narnia in winter.
Alpine Endeavors - Are you an adventurous type? This outdoor outfitter will take you on a guided ice climbing trip.
Best views
Photographer John Fischer grew up just a few miles outside New Paltz and he published Ulster County: Discovering Home, a coffee-table book that tells of his perspective on the area with photos and writings. “A couple of years ago, I was driving along Butterville Road and looked up at the Shawangunk Ridge and Mohonk Skytop Tower and thought to myself, ‘If I saw that in a magazine and it was in Europe, I’d be thinking about getting plane tickets to go,’” he says. We got John to share his favorite views.

Nyquist-Harcourt Wildlife Sanctuary - “This place has what I love: a good combination of manmade structures (little bridges, pathways) and views of the Shawangunk Ridge. I had the pleasure of meeting Tom Nyquist once. He did much of the labor on the sanctuary himself, and it’s a great lasting part of his legacy.”
Mohonk Mountain House - “It’s one of the most well-known places in New Paltz, and for good reason. The entire process of going up there adds to the mystique. In the simplest terms, it’s a resort with a hotel in a Victorian castle, at the top of a mountain with a beautiful lake, with lots of trails and activities, all with restricted access. The price of the day pass might be offputting at first, but if you can afford to splurge on it, it’s very much worth it. I’ve never stayed overnight, but I’d like to some day.”
Wallkill Valley Rail Trail - “This one holds a special place in my heart and mind. My friends and I used to bicycle on it from my house to New Paltz when I was a teenager, before it was ‘official.’ The organizations and towns in charge of it have done a great job making it better and better. Walking on this old rail bed through the woods is an enjoyable experience any time of year.”
Drive Around - “If you have a car, I recommend just driving around and checking out the views, the farms, the old houses, the new houses, the farm stands, and whatever it is that you see. There are lots of pretty roads, and you don't know what to expect around each corner.”
Shopping
“Most of the boutiques stay open year-round, so there’s never a shortage of fun things to discover in the winter,” says Mohonk Mountain House’s Barbara Stirewalt.

Rock and Snow - The place to pick up winter hiking or climbing gear and rent cross country ski equipment and snowshoes.
Cocoon - “A tiny store on Main Street chock full of clever housewares, funky greeting cards, and charming gift ideas,” says Scott. “Verde, its sister store around the corner, offers luxe bath and body products plus clothing and accessories.”
Water Street Market - A collection of well-curated shops, including an antiques barn, wine pub, and a cheese store.
Weekend plans. Shared.
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