All Articles The Rockaways: The quintessential NYC beach staycation

The Rockaways: The quintessential NYC beach staycation

People playing on Rockaway Beach
Unsplash/Alistair MacRobert
By Laura Begley BloomJul 30, 2021 6 minutes read

For the past couple of months, The WeekEnder has been taking you to some of the East Coast’s best beaches, from the preppy shores of Newport, Rhode Island to the rock-and-roll sands of Asbury Park, New Jersey to the hidden coves around New Haven, Connecticut. This weekend, we’re staying close to home with a staycation in the Rockaways, a 10-mile long peninsula that juts into the Atlantic ocean.

“It’s not hard, not far to reach,” sang the Ramones in their iconic 1979 homage to this Queens beach getaway that is an easy subway or ferry ride from Manhattan. And that’s just part of the appeal for people like former fashion exec Nigel Louis, who used to escape here from his Manhattan corporate life whenever the waves were good. “Being out in the Rockaways was a release from a super intense world,” he says. “This is a community of surfers and full-on Wall Street hedge funders who are just people in the water when they’re here.” Nigel loved the place so much that he moved to the Rockaways and opened Station RBNY, an outfitter that is helping spearhead a more inclusive surf scene.

Left: Nigel Louis next to a row of surfboards; Right: Michael Reinhardt holding a surfboard on the beach
Nigel Louis (L), Michael Reinhardt (R)

Another local surf icon is Michael Reinhardt, a fourth-generation Rockaway resident. “Growing up, most kids dream of getting out of their hometown,” says Michael, who founded a surf school called Locals as well as a cafe, Locals Collective, that celebrates the hang-10 vibe. “I realized that I could make my own surf paradise in the Rockaways.”

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And what a paradise it is: The Rockaways are red hot right now, thanks to entrepreneurs like Nigel and Michael, a buzzing food scene, and the new Rockaway Hotel, which opened its doors during Covid and tapped into the area’s ethos with local art and music. “It’s got that vibrancy and kinetic feeling that makes New York City such a serendipitous hub of creativity,” says Michi Jigarjian, one of the hotel’s founding partners and its chief social impact officer. Michi is talking about the hotel itself, but the same can be said for the Rockaways. Let’s ride the wave.

-Laura Begley Bloom, New York's Senior WeekEnder Writer

Editor’s Note: Your safety is our primary concern. We encourage you only to travel when it’s safe to do so. While we’ve vetted businesses featured here to ensure they are adhering to the state’s current COVID requirements, the situation is fluid. If you’re not comfortable traveling, save this guide for a later date, as all these activities will be just as amazing in the future as they are today.

For more info on travel within New York, visit the state’s official COVID-19 information page.

Where to stay

Chic lobby with various seating at Rockaway Hotel
Rockaway Hotel

Rockaway Hotel

Although it’s less than a year old, the Rockaway Hotel is so immersed in the fabric of the community that it feels like it’s been here forever, which is no surprise, given that two of its founding partners — brothers Terence and Dan Tubridy — are from a third-generation Rockaways family. The hotel’s revolving art collection includes work by local artists like Tom Sachs (who lives nearby), Fabiola Sheppard (who created macramé plant holders for all the rooms), and surf photographers Susannah Ray and Joni Sternbach (whose photos hang in rooms and public spaces). Music also features heavily, and the hotel will be hosting concerts by homegrown artists and big names like G. Love. Then there’s the sunny space itself, which has a pared-down Scandi style that celebrates the expansive water views, with the ocean on one side and the bay on the other.

Insider tip: Jon Krasner, one of the hotel’s founding partners, suggests ordering a Shark Bite cocktail and heading to the rooftop pool to take in the skyline. “It’s the best view of New York City I’ve ever seen,” he says. “And the sunsets are phenomenal.”

Honorable mentions

For glampers: Camp Rockaway - Don’t want to leave the beach at the end of the day? You don’t need to: This pop-up glamping experience has upscale safari tents so that you spend the night right on the sand.

For living like a local: Charming vintage bungalows line the streets of the Rockaways, and many of them are available to rent on Airbnb. Josh Skyer is a plugged-in local who runs two properties in the area with his sister, Elana: the white and airy NYC Beach House and the Hot Tub House, a new listing that has (guess what) a hot tub. Or you can fully embrace the surf lifestyle at the five-bedroom Locals House, which is owned by Michael Reinhardt of the Locals Surf Club.

Where to eat & drink

Burger, fries, and a hot dog at Rippers
Rippers

Best breakfast

Rockaway Beach Bakery

You’ll find everything from sweet (sticky buns) to savory (bacon, egg, and cheese on a buttermilk biscuit with roasted scallion mayo) to a combo (salted honey croissants), plus all kinds of La Colombe coffee.

Brothers Rockaway

The perfect morning wake-up: a juice and smoothie bar with healthy breakfast treats. Also great for lunch (we love the kimchi grilled cheese).

Coffee break

Milk being poured into coffee cup at Locals Collective
Locals Collective

Locals Collective

The place for mom and dad to hang out and work remotely while their kids are taking lessons at the Locals Surf School.

Lunchtime

Left: Wooden outdoor seating at Rockaway Beach Surf Club (L); Right: Sandwich from Batesy’s BBQ
Rockaway Beach Surf Club (L), Batesy’s BBQ (R)

Rockaway Beach Surf Club

This restaurant, bar, and cultural event space is devoted to promoting the love of surfing. It’s also home to Tacoway Beach, an offshoot of the legendary but now-defunct Rockaway Taco.

Rippers

This surfside burger joint is beloved by all the locals. “You really feel like you’re at the beach when you’re here,” says Nigel Louis.

Batesy’s BBQ

A new barbeque restaurant a couple blocks from the ocean. Hungry? The epic takeaway beach box is perfect for a shoreside feast.

Cuisine by Claudette

Healthy bites with a Mediterranean flair. The turkey burger has a cult following.

Global flavors

Food spread from Caracas Arepa Bar, including arepas, plantain chips, and drinks
Caracas Arepa Bar

Super Burrito

The name says it all: killer burritos from a pair of friends from San Francisco, who wanted to introduce Mission-style burritos to NYC.

Caracas Arepa Bar

A seasonal boardwalk stand serving arepas (South American sandwiches) that Nigel says gets an “A plus plus plus because of the quality of the food.”

Thai Rock

Upscale Thai dishes, a bar with dazzling sunset views, and the occasional jazz and rock music performance.

Date night

Margie’s dining room with wooden tables and booths
Margie’s

Margie’s

Laidback but chic dining room at the Rockaway Hotel. Love seafood? Don’t miss the Kraken, a towering plateau that’s made for sharing.

Whit’s End

Fusion food and creative pizzas. “This place can feel a bit loud, but the food is so good that you really don't care,” says Nigel.

Drinks

Cans and a glass of beer from Rockaway Brewing Co.
Rockaway Brewing Co.

Rockaway Brewing Co.

A taproom set inside an industrial garage; grab one of the picnic tables and sample the local brews.

Sayra’s Wine Bar & Bier Garden

In the mood for a glass of wine? This is your place. “The backyard is amazing,” says Nigel.

What to do

Child surfing with Locals Surf School
Locals Surf School

Surfing Lessons

There are tons of surf outfitters in the Rockaways, but these are three of our favorites. And don’t think that you can only surf in the summer. “Fall is what we call ‘the local summer,” says Michael Reinhardt of the Locals Surf School. “The waves start to get really good for an avid surfer. And the beach traffic isn’t as intense.”

Locals Surf School

Surf lessons for grown-ups, a summer camp for kids, and even skateboarding if you want to learn some tricks on land. Locals also has a program in conjunction with the Rockaway Hotel.

Station RBNY

Lessons in a welcoming setting that promotes surfing for everyone. Owner Nigel Louis used to work in fashion, so it’s no surprise that the products here are also top-notch.

Boarders Surf Shop

A family-run surf shop that sells and rents boards and can hook you up with lessons, as well.

Outdoors

Left: Beach at Jacob Riis Park; Right: Birds at the Jamaica Bay Wildlife Refuge
Jacob Riis Park (L), Jamaica Bay Wildlife Refuge (R)

“This is one of the places in NYC where you can get the deepest connection to nature, because we’re on this little sliver of land, surrounded by oceans and bays and wetlands,” says Josh Skyer, who runs two Airbnbs in the area. Besides Rockaway beach itself, here’s where the locals go to enjoy the great outdoors.

Jacob Riis Park

This national park and beach stretch is also home to the Riis Park Beach Bazaar, which has plenty to entertain beachgoers, including snack shacks, shops, events, and more.

Fort Tilden

“Nature trails and World War II-era naval bunkers that are cool to check out,” says Josh.

Jamaica Bay Wildlife Refuge

This nearby wildlife refuge is home to 325 species of birds. Plus, the bay that separates the Rockaways from the mainland is loaded with activities. “There’s a lot that you can do in Jamaica Bay, from renting jet skis to chartering a sailboat,” says Josh.

Floyd Bennett Field

New York City’s first municipal airport was later transformed into a World War II naval air station. Today, there’s a visitor’s center where you can learn about aviation history, bird nesting areas, camping, and more.

Where to shop

Interior of The Swellife with plants and colorful goods for sale
The Swellife

The Swellife

When she wants to shop locally, the Rockaway Hotel’s Michi Jigarjian frequents this boutique with surf-inspired fashion and accessories. “It’s really cute,” she says.

Zingara Vintage

Nigel Louis is a big fan of this vintage clothing shop owned by Erin Silvers, a local tastemaker.

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Laura Begley Bloom
Laura Begley Bloom is a travel expert and content strategist who writes for a wide range of magazines and websites and appears regularly on television outlets ranging from the Weather Channel to CNN. Journalism is part of Laura's heritage. Her great great grandfather was a Civil War correspondent for the Chicago Tribune. You can learn more about Laura on laurabegleybloom.com.