Sullivan County: High design, local eats, and craft brews

The Catskills are calling. This weekend’s destination: Livingston Manor and Roscoe, a pair of neighboring towns in Sullivan County that have all the ingredients for an amazing weekend getaway. Brews and spirits, good eats, hip home stores, stylish hotels, and some of the best fly fishing in the country.

It’s no wonder so many New Yorkers come here for the weekend and never leave. Misty Hackworth used to work in sales and marketing for Brooklyn Brewery, while her husband, Aaron Blakely, ran popular bar programs in the city. “We would come up every weekend to camp at all of the local campgrounds and spend our weekends fly fishing,” says Misty. In 2020, they moved full time to Roscoe, which is also known as “Trout Town USA,” and opened The Junction, which has quickly become the go-to restaurant for anglers after a day on the river.

Shawn Michael Lang has a similar story. Four years ago, he took the leap and cofounded The Farmhouse Project, a lifestyle brand that supports local artisans and farmers via a home design store in Livingston Manor, pop-up makers markets around Sullivan County, and field dinners held throughout the year. The appeal: “living a more simple and authentic lifestyle,” says Shawn. “We have more cows here than people.”

Another architect of change is Sims Foster, a Livingston Manor native whose family has been here for more than 100 years. “When I was growing up, I heard stories from my grandparents and my father about how this area used to be a vibrant, energetic, busy, economically viable place,” says Sims. In search of more excitement, he fled to Manhattan to work in nightclubs and hotels, but found himself drawn back to the area most weekends. “There was something in my soul that needed to be up here,” he says. Along with his wife, Kirsten Harlow Foster (a former finance exec), he eventually left the city behind and founded Foster Supply Hospitality, creating boutique hotels that are helping bring a fresh energy to Sullivan County and allowing visitors to experience the laid-back vibe that makes this area so appealing.

So pack your bags and get ready to reel in a good time in Sullivan County.

-Laura Begley Bloom, New York's Senior WeekEnder Writer

The style quotient runs high here, thanks to all the entrepreneurs who have opened personality-driven boutique hotels in Livingston Manor and Roscoe. This is our shortlist.

Foster Supply Hospitality’s first boutique property, The Arnold House, is perched on the slopes of Shandelee Mountain, with mid-century-inspired spaces for kicking back after a day of roaming.

The DeBruce, a 12-room inn set on hundreds of acres with ponds, hammocks, and a private slice of river for fly fishing. Its restaurant — named one of the best in America by Esquire — has tasting menus served in a glass-walled dining room with an open kitchen.

Straight out of Little House on the Prairie, the Catskill Conestoga Wagon Outpost is home to four covered wagons outfitted with creature comforts, including a king-size bed for grown-ups and bunks for the kids.

Calling all couples. You’ll love Antrim Streamside, a waterfront escape with simple yet elegant cabins hidden away in 250 acres of nature on the Willowemoc river.

Named after a river in Australia, The Yarra is a well-priced B&B inspired by the owners’ travels and it features a restaurant that’s a nod to the city of Melbourne and its eclectic mix of cuisines.

Beaverkill Valley Inn is a National Historic spot from 1895 that commands one mile of private access to the upper Beaverkill river. Just in case you get tired of fly fishing, there’s an indoor heated pool, basketball and tennis courts, hiking trails, croquet, and even a self-serve ice cream parlor.

The concentration of good restaurants is something to behold, and no surprise. Farm-to-table is the name of the game.

Main Street Farm in Livingston Manor - The farm-to-table café doubles as a chic delicatessen for locally produced granola, honey, syrup, chocolate, coffee, and other quick artisanal bites to kick off a day of exploring.

Roscoe Diner in Roscoe - Since 1969, this family-owned diner has been slinging Greek and American classics. Don’t miss the famous deep-fried French toast.

The Walk In in Livingston Manor - You’re likely to spot Shawn Michael Lang, cofounder of The Farmhouse Project, at this neighboring restaurant. His advice: “Be sure to get the mouthwatering biscuit sandwich.”

The Courtyard in Roscoe - The place for a burger and a beer and a round of pool. “Good food and a warm and friendly atmosphere,” says Anne Marie Dennis, farm store manager at Buck Brook Alpacas.

Bà & Me in Livingston Manor - Nhi Mundy is the editor of local travel magazine DVEIGHT and the force behind a group of Vietnamese sandwich shops in the area.

The Smoke Joint in Livingston Manor - Tasty ‘cue and some veggie sides, served along the shores of the Willowemoc Creek by award-winning chefs Ben Grossman and Craig Samuel. Order the: The brisket, smoked for 16 hours, has a cult following.

Sunshine Colony in Livingston Manor - A natural wine bar that also serves seasonally inspired cocktails (how about a ramp martini with a twist?) and a rotating selection of snacks (fresh focaccia, hand-picked cheeses, caviar toast).

The Arnold Tavern in Livingston Manor - This 50-year-old standby highlights local ingredients, trout from the area’s legendary rivers, and a funky scene (think pool table, jukebox, and deer heads mounted on the walls).

The Junction in Roscoe - Avid fly fishing enthusiasts Misty Hackworth and Aaron Blakely run this ​​low-key bar and bistro that has become popular with anglers. “Grab a burger before or after time on the river,” says Misty.

The DeBruce Restaurant in Livingston Manor - Tasting menus in a glass-walled dining room with views of the mountains and an open kitchen.

The Kaatskeller in Livingston Manor - Pizzas topped with local ingredients like pepper-infused raw honey are cooked in an outdoor wood-fired oven using Sullivan County kiln-dried ash. When the weather’s nice, grab a picnic table in the garden.

Northern Farmhouse Pasta in Roscoe - Restaurants all over the region serve the creations from this artisanal purveyor, the first pasta restaurant in the state to use 100 percent New York-grown wheat. It’s even better at the source. Don’t miss the ravioli filled with seasonal finds (wild ramps, roasted corn).

The Neon Croissant in Livingston Manor - A new women-owned pie shop.

Nif-T’s in Roscoe - Whatever kind of ice cream you can dream of, you’ll find it here, with hard and soft versions, vegan, sugar-free, dairy-free, and specialty coffees, too.

The Catskill Brewery in Livingston Manor - Pure Catskill mountain water is the not-so-secret ingredient that transforms the honest hardworking beers into award winners.

Upward Brewing Company in Livingston Manor - We’re not sure what we like better: the crisp pilsners and hoppy IPAs brewed with water from a natural spring or the surrounding 120 acres that they cheekily refer to as “Beer Mountain.”

Do Good Spirits in Roscoe - A craft distiller in a repurposed 1929 firehouse. “They make our favorite vodka and bourbon,” says Shawn. Swing by for a sample.

Roscoe Beer Company in Roscoe - Come for the live music, fierce Jenga competitions, and craft sips in an open-air beer garden.

Step aside, Montana: This area is considered the true birthplace of American dry fly fishing. And that’s just the start of all the adventures.

Catskills Fly Fishing Center and Museum in Livingston Manor - A museum and fishing area dedicated to preserving the heritage of fly fishing and inspiring the next generation of anglers.

Junction Pool - “The Willowemoc and the Beaverkill rivers come together at the world-famous Junction Pool, which attracts trout fisherman from all over the world fish,” says Anne Marie Dennis, farm store manager at Buck Brook Alpacas.

Buck Brook Alpacas in Roscoe - The place to see some of the most eco-friendly animals on Earth and shop for alpaca wool products at the farm store. “Alpacas have little impact on their environment,” says Anne Marie. “Unlike the hooves of sheep and cattle, alpacas have padded feet, and they leave even the most delicate terrain undamaged.”

The Trailkeeper Project - Sullivan County has plenty of hikes for all levels, and The Trailkeeper Project is a great online resource to find the best. With easy-to-read and easy-to-access online maps and facilities info, you can get matched with a trail that makes sense for you, whether you’re a beginner or avid hiker.

Twin Village Golf & Winter Park - Tee up at this 95-year-old golf course, the perfect spot to spend the afternoon, thanks to short, yet challenging holes and killer views of the valley.

Livingston Manor is a design lover’s dream where even the fishing shops are chic. There are also a couple of shops to check out in neighboring Roscoe.

Dette Flies in Livingston Manor - Since 1928, the oldest family-run fly fishing shop in the world has been luring anglers with its massive selection of flies, ties, rods, and gear, plus expert advice and guided trips. “Our business is based on the pristine and heritage waters of the Catskills,” says co-owner Kelly Buchta.

The Farmhouse Project in Livingston Manor - “The Farmhouse Project embodies our mission of community, tourism, and supporting local farms and artisans throughout the county,” says cofounder Shawn Michael Lang. “Our home collection is all designed by us and made in partnership by local artisans throughout the Sullivan Catskills.”

Jitterbug in Livingston Manor - An old A&P Grocery story has been transformed into a destination for the young at heart, filled with board games, art supplies, and used records.

Life Repurposed in Livingston Manor - Vintage everything (clothing, furniture, jewelry, cookbooks, and more) sourced from estates throughout Sullivan County.

Van Smokey in Livingston Manor - A small-batch smokehouse that’s known for its BBQ sauces, drink mixers, and meat — lots of it.

Duke Pottery in Roscoe - One-of-a-kind, handmade pottery inspired by the setting of this mountaintop studio with mind-blowing views.