Newport is changing with the times

When you think of Newport, Rhode Island, you usually think of Gilded Age mansions and million-dollar yachts. But there’s a new Newport emerging, one that’s a lot less fancy, with cool boutique hotels, an ever-evolving food scene, style-forward shops, and a welcoming vibe. It was exactly this Newport that attracted automotive superstar Donald Osborne. A classic car expert who has appeared on Jay Leno’s Garage, Donald left Palm Springs last year and moved to Newport to run the Audrain Automobile Museum. He has never looked back.

“When I first visited Newport 35 years ago, people either came here to sail, to hang out in the bars on Thames Street, or to see the mansions — but you never crossed from one side of town to the other,” says Donald. “And that’s the difference in Newport today. The city is really unified. It’s not at all a stuffy, old-time, old-money kind of place.”

This is also what inspired Paula Silva to create Rhode Island Red Food Tours, which takes travelers on eating trips to discover the city’s surprisingly diverse culinary landscape. “We’re not going to the fancy, buttoned-up seafood restaurants of old Newport,” says Paula. “We’re going to small, locally owned places that have different kinds of food — Guatemalan, Mexican, Jamaican, fusion — and a unique American story.”

If you know The WeekEnder, then you know that this is the kind of story we love. So join us as we discover all the joys of the new Newport.

-Laura Begley Bloom, New York's Senior WeekEnder Writer

A flurry of recent hotel openings has ignited the Newport hotel scene, but there are also some classics that never go out of style. These are the top spots on our list.

Expect a funky motel-style exterior, a postcard-perfect pool, and a range of excursions that highlight local traditions like oyster foraging and sailing trips complete with a New England lobster bake.

This newly built 84-room boutique hotel has stunning views of the harbor and the marina, plus a serious culinary program.

At the first LEED-certified hotel in Rhode Island, the rooms, suites, lofts, and cottages are outfitted with state-of-the-art technology and environmentally-friendly amenities.

Smack on the waterfront, this new 57-room hotel has a “Pick your Pastime” package that encourages guests to experience some of what Newport is known for: polo, tennis, boating, and more.

Hidden away on a small isle in Narragansett Bay, Gurney’s has water views in every direction. Don't miss the weekend "docktails," the bayside cabanas, and the free water shuttle to Fort Adams, home to Newport Jazz and other festivals.

One of the oldest hotels in Newport, this landmark Bellevue Avenue property just got a top-to-bottom overhaul. Check out the panoramic views from the rooftop bar.

This peaceful 11-room B&B in Newport’s historic district has a noteworthy breakfast and an innkeeper who will make you feel right at home.

Over the past few years, Newport’s food scene has exploded, with a range of cuisines that crisscross the globe and plum the depths of the surrounding ocean. Here are the addresses to know.

This open-air dining spot hidden away in a working shipyard is the place to experience the real Newport, with its mix of boat workers and yacht owners. The signature Slammin' Shipyard Sandwich is a heavenly egg-and-cheese creation.

Local art, chill vibes, and an excellent weekend brunch. The Broadway Bloody is the restaurant’s spin on a Bloody Mary: It’s loaded with blue cheese, olives, and candied pork belly, and finished off with a dry rub rim.

An entrepreneurial local couple started what they call the “Nitro Cartel” — nitro cold brew coffee carts. Check out their bricks-and-mortar space on Pond Avenue, which also serves light bites.

A local catering group opened a neighborhood waterfront restaurant that has quickly become a cult favorite for its killer lobster rolls.

This casual lunch joint is from the team behind the acclaimed Thames Street Kitchen. The organic burgers and house-cased dogs are irresistible.

Want to keep it healthy? Drift is the local bowl expert. Choose from savory lunch blends or fruit-forward acai versions.

Hidden away in the back of a Latin American food market is a small restaurant known for its carne adobada, grilled pork carnitas served in a red chili sauce with vinegar and oregano.

A Jamaican couple serves up family recipes ranging from jerk chicken to a vegan red bean stew that people buy by the quart.

This isn’t the 99 cent ramen you ate in college. We’re mildly obsessed with the Tokyo Tater Tots, topped with soy mayo, furikake, and sriracha.

After debuting as a pop-up ghost kitchen this winter, La Vecina has moved into a permanent home in historic Washington Square, serving authentic Mexican street tacos, margies, and more.

This new restaurant in the Wayfinder Hotel has serious Brooklyn vibes and is helmed by James Colleran, who was named Rhode Island’s chef of the year in 2019.

Chef-owner Kevin O’Donnell calls his menu “freestyle Italian,” which is just another way of saying “delicious.” You’ll devour creative dishes like the Ricotta Frittelle, a twist on arancini (fried risotto balls) topped with honey, truffle, and parm.

The new version of Newport’s groundbreaking Thames Street Kitchen spotlights seasonal local ingredients. And while its predecessor used to be BYOB, now you’ll find a creative cocktail program.

This proudly divey dive bar is frequented by laid-back locals and well-heeled summer folks. Look for live bands and a surprisingly sophisticated food menu to wash down the drinks.

Back in the 18th century, Newport was a rum capital. This distillery taps into that heritage, producing a range of spirits (from gin to rum) and craft brews. Have a tasting and play lawn games in the outdoor pavilion.

Want to take in the fresh ocean air? Here’s where the locals go in and around Newport.

Audrain Automobile Museum’s Donald Osborne can’t get enough of the 10-mile drive that hugs the southern coast. “Once a week, I make a point of driving along this road because it reminds me of what an extraordinary place this is,” says Donald.

Newport Stylephile blogger Andrea McHugh recommends the historic fortification for a waterfront picnic. Get your provisions at the aptly named Picnic, a takeaway spot at the Hotel Viking. Or go all out: Stoneacre Garden can cater an elevated picnic experience. “It’s your Instagram dream, with low tables, fluffy pillows, and awesome food,” says Andrea.

Catch the breezes at this spectacular oceanfront spot. “It’s the best place to fly a kite,” says Andrea McHugh.

The cleverly-named beach is located on a strip of shoreline next to the exclusive Bailey’s Beach. There’s no parking, but it’s free to the public and accessible via a footpath.

Founder Mary Joy Lu created this innovative experience after seeing a strange rail-biking contraption in a Korean soap opera. It’s hard to describe, but you’re basically pedaling down an old railroad track (safely).

It’s no secret that Newport is known for grand mansions that the former inhabitants referred to as “cottages.” Want to avoid the crowds? Here are some of the lesser-known things to do in the area.

On Bellevue Avenue, you’ll find 7,500 square feet of gallery space devoted to the history of cars. The museum also hosts regular events like “Cars & Coffee,” where auto enthusiasts come to share their passions. Want to drive a classic car around Newport? The museum’s Membership Club has a fleet for members to borrow.

This turn-of-the century mansion set on 33 acres with gorgeous gardens is worth the detour to nearby Bristol.

Another highlight that makes Bristol worth a visit: this national historic site where you can explore trails that go down to the water.

Kids will love this coastal farm in Bristol, which is Newport’s version of Colonial Williamsburg, featuring interpreters and reenactments of farm life in the 18th century.

Newport is known for its epic events, which are back this season. A few not to miss:

“Back in Bloom: A Ballroom Floral Fantasy” is a self-guided tour of flower exhibits and garden vignettes at Rosecliff Mansion.

The longest running Independence Day parade in the country dates back to 1785 and will be taking place this year on Monday the 5th.

Newport Folk is doing things a little differently this year with a pair of three-day events highlighting music, storytelling, and more.

This year, the city’s legendary Jazz Festival will present three days of performances and surprise collaborations at Fort Adams.

Newport’s shopping scene is getting a boost from a host of local entrepreneurs. We got Andrea McHugh, founder of the blog Newport Stylephile, to share her favorite places.

Beautify your home at this chic design shop. “It’s California meets New England style — all in aesthetically pleasing whites and neutrals,” says Andrea.

The place to get a standout beach read. “It’s a cool new independent bookstore in a beautifully renovated space that kept the building’s architectural integrity,” says Andrea.

Cutting-edge clothing. “People think of Bellevue as Rodeo Drive, but this shop is run by two women who are making a youthful splash,” says Andrea.

Cool fashion trends, accessories, candles, and more. “It’s like Anthropologie before it went mainstream,” says Andrea. “Next door, they have Baby Bias, the cutest shop for kids.”

“A boutique wine shop with small production bottles and a mural on the outside of the building from talented local artist Chris Wylie,” says Andrea.

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