Head to the Catskills for an ultimate ski weekend

Details in this story were updated in September 2024.

On a recent weekend morning, the first flakes of the season were falling on Hunter Mountain—the second highest peak in the Catskills—as skaters spun around the ice rink at Scribner’s, an Alpine-chic boutique hotel in a retro ski lodge overlooking the slopes. Just down the road, Scribner’s founder, Marc Chodock, was welcoming ski bunnies and plaid-clad locals to Fellow Mountain Café, set in a 1913 Queen Anne building that used to be home to a secret social club called the Independent Order of Odd Fellows.

As guests sampled the café’s artisanal drip coffee and house-made cinnamon rolls, the welcoming après-ski vibe that Marc and his team have been carefully grooming in this area was on full display. It’s the same atmosphere you’ll see around the mid-century modern fireplaces at Scribner’s.

“When I originally opened Scribner’s, I was simply looking to create hotels outside of major cities,” says Marc, a former New York City finance guy turned hospitality entrepreneur. “But I slowly fell in love with this area and got to know the people living here, who will tell you stories about the crazy days of old when there used to be a hundred bars on this mountain. I decided to go deep and create places that have just as much character. We don’t want this to be Disneyland.”

After bringing you to the Great Northern Catskills on a glamping-focused weekend escape, The WeekEnder is back for ski season in Hunter and neighboring Windham. Call this a tale of two ski towns. With its serious terrain and its reputation for attracting daredevil shredders, Hunter is the brash big brother to Windham’s kid-friendly slopes (though there are some black-diamond runs here, too.) You’ll also find plenty of off-piste adventures and après-ski moments to keep you entertained, thanks to entrepreneurs like Marc, who are celebrating the local vibe while reinvesting in this area’s future.

So whether you’re looking to divebomb down the mountain, strap on a pair of snowshoes and go tromping along the trails, or just hang out by the fire at a cozy local inn, we’ve got all the ingredients for the ultimate winter mountain escape.

Calling all Instagrammers. Your photo-perfect backdrop awaits at the Eastwind Hotel & Bar, a former retreat for hunters and fishermen that has been transformed into the boutique stay of your dreams. In the main Bunk House and the nearby Hill House, you’ll find rooms with pared-down Scandi furnishings that contrast with the wide wood-plank floors from the 1920s. But the showstoppers are the simple Lushna cabins with huge picture windows, scattered across 17 acres. Eastwind is the brainchild of Bjorn Boyer and his wife Julija, who opened the property with a group of friends—and that friendship is obvious when you stay here, bonding with other guests over s’mores by a bonfire (though if you want to get away from it all, some of the rooms have personal firepits). “We all fell in love with this area for different reasons,” says Bjorn. “After stumbling upon the property and seeing the sweeping views of Windham Mountain, our goal and vision were the same—create a unique Scandinavian home away from home that would help bring together other groups of friends and families.”

Insider tip: Make sure to order the basket breakfast. The staff will show up in the morning with a basket full of home-baked treats that you can enjoy in your room or—if the weather is good—head into the surrounding woods for a picnic al fresco.

Honorable mentions:

A design-forward hotel with lots of après-ski moments, including a skating rink, firepits, a barrel-shaped sauna, and a cozy lounge built around a freestanding fireplace. Rooms have details like fireplaces and sunken living areas, locally crafted artwork, and a vintage vibe.

Ski-in ski-out resort right on the mountain with suites and condo units, plus a heated outdoor pool for warming up after a day on the slopes.

This Adirondack-style lodge run by a husband-wife team has rocking chairs on the wide porch, home-cooked breakfasts, and free s’mores kits for guests to use at the many fireplaces scattered throughout the property.

The name of this charming boutique hotel means the “inn of happiness” in Italian. It has a breakfast with a serious culinary flair, plus fresh-brewed, locally roasted coffee awaiting skiers who return from a day on the nearby slopes.

Just 20 minutes from Windham, this 1779 farm (one of the oldest in the country) has been in the same family for generations. There are three houses for rent, plus snowman making, sledding, feeding the animals, campfires with s’mores, and more.

The top line: First of all, say it like the locals—“Huntah.” This 3,200-foot mountain with 320 skiable acres has a rep as a ski-hard, party-hard place, with challenging terrain due to a jagged face and blind turns. You don’t need to worry about snowfall: Hunter was one of the world’s first ski areas to install an automated snowmaking system.

Best runs: A few years back, Hunter opened Hunter North—the a massive expansion that increased the skiable area by 33%. Many of the trails are named after NYC landmarks (Lower 42nd Street, Broadway). For the most thrills head to the Belt Parkway, a long run that winds off the summit.

Something for everyone: If you’ve got kids, you won’t want to miss this tubing park. (And we won’t tell anyone if you don’t have kids and still want to go.)

Lift tickets: Hunter is running a reservation system this season due to limited capacity. You’ll be able to purchase lift tickets, but only in advance and online. No tickets are being sold onsite. For more information, see Hunter’s ticketing options page.

Epic Passes: Hunter is part of the Epic group, which includes a number of ski resorts across the country like Vail and Stowe. With the pass, you’ll get priority reservations and 20% off lodging, food, and more.

On-piste dining: Expect grab-and-go options like Pika’s Waffle Stop, quick-service spots like The Marketplace, and Van Winkle's Restaurant is only open to hotel guests.

The top line: Calling all families. With its plethora of bunny slopes, the 3,100-foot Windham is a beginner-friendly mountain that’s also home to an impressive adaptive sports center helping skiers with special needs learn how to conquer the slopes. Excellent snowmaking facilities help avoid worries about Mother Nature.

Best runs: Got a need for speed? Advanced skiers can check out the black diamond runs at Upper and Lower Wolverine. The extra incentive: Mind-blowing views of the valley, especially on clear days, when you can see for miles on end.

Something for everyone: Sure there’s mini snowmobiling, but Windham's adventure park isn’t just for the kids. Think snowtubing, an outdoor ice skating rink, and more.

Lift tickets: Windham—which is now operating as a private ski club—runs a reservation system with limited availability to make sure there's plenty of room for guests to spread out. For more information, see Windham’s ticketing options page. Windham is also part of the Ikon Pass Program, which includes resorts from Park City to Lake Tahoe. Passholders get priority reservations and other perks.

On-piste dining: Under its new ownership, Windham has elevated its food scene. The food hall is still there, but you'll also find upscale options like Okami by Mr. Lee, a slopeside spot with sushi, Japanese whiskeys, and more.

▶️ Want to get a virtual bird’s-eye-view of snow-covered Hunter Mountain? Video: Hunter from Above

The local dining scene taps into all that Catskills creativity, with plenty of farm-fresh goodness.

Windham Local Public House in Windham - Airy café in a former bank highlighting fresh ingredients from local farms.

See & Be Kitchen in Cairo - Wood-fired bread and pastries make it worth the 20-minute drive.

Fellow Mountain Café in Hunter - Sleek café from the owners of Scribner’s with coffee on the run, plus breakfast and lunch bites.

Higher Grounds in Windham - Local coffee shop right near the mountain with a ski bum vibe.

La Patisserie Normande in Windham - French pastries that bring a taste of Paris to the Catskills.

Mama’s Boy Burgers in Tannersville - Fifties style diner with burgers and dogs to-go.

Chicken Run Family Restaurant and Steak House in Windham - Family-friendly eats (and yes, there’s tons of chicken on the menu).

Jägerberg Beer Hall & Alpine Tavern in Hunter - Outdoor beer garden and Bavarian classics (schnitzel, raclette, pretzels) in a Brooklyn-cool setting.

Ze Windham Wine Bar in Windham - Over 40 wines by the glass plus cheese and charcuterie boards.

The Prospect at Scribner’s in Hunter - Locally sourced cuisine and creative craft cocktails with views of the slopes. Don’t miss the smash burger, worth every single calorie.

Jessie’s Harvest House in Hunter – Sophisticated farm-to-table dishes from a Culinary Institute of America grad in an upscale ski lodge.

Tavern 23 in Windham – Cozy restaurant from the owners of Windham Mountain serving comfort food, local craft beers, and small-vineyard wines.

If you aren’t a skier, there are plenty of spots to play in the snow and take in the great outdoors. Here’s where the locals go:

Kaaterskill Falls in Haines Falls - Many people think of these falls as a summer destination, but Marc Chodock, owner of Scribner’s Catskill Lodge, recommends a winter hike: “It’s cool to see how the water forms into ice as it splatters down.”

Windham Path in Windham - Bjorn Boyer, owner of Eastwind Hotel & Bar, loves this easy 1.5-mile walking path for “year-round hiking and biking day trips” plus spectacular views of the mountain.

Windham Mountain Outfitters in Windham - Check out fat biking in the snow, which Albergo Allegria’s executive chef and owner Marianne Leman recommends as “a great way to explore the Catskills trails, just steps from our door.”

Mountain Trails Cross Country Ski Center in Tannersville - Strap on a pair of cross-country skis and explore miles of quiet nature trails that used to be frequented by loggers and trappers. “One of the Catskills' most beautiful winter wonderlands,” says Leman.

Huckleberry Rail Trail in Tannersville - A former railroad track that’s great for walks, cross-country skiing, and snowshoeing.

Mountain Top Arboretum in Tannersville - This public garden on the ridge between Hunter and Windham is open year-round and made for quiet strolls in the snow.

Meeting House Hill in Durham – It’s an easy walk to this early settling ground with an atmospheric cemetery full of old tombstones — and views that could wake the dead. “When you get up there, it looks over the beautiful, historic valley,” says Sherry Hull, co-owner of Hull-O Farms.

▶️ Hear stories about the Catskills from locals, historians, and guides. Podcast: Kaatscast

While this area is by no means a shopping Mecca, you’ll find a few worthy reasons to take a break from the slopes.

Tannersville Antique & Artisan Center in Tannersville - This highly styled antiques store is filled with mountain memorabilia and taxidermied animals like snakes and birds (trust us, you’ll want one).

Catskill Mountain Country Store in Windham and Tannersville - Pair of down-home stores with coffee, snacks, toys, and gifts. Highlights include a petting zoo at the Windham location and an old-fashioned ice-cream counter in Tannersville.

The Knitting Room in Windham - This indie yarn shop with a coffee counter is so cool it will make you want to take up knitting.

Briars & Brambles Books in Windham - A well-curated book shop for when you want to have a moment of quiet reflection in between adventures.