Weekend in Cooperstown: An ideal getaway to Upstate New York

Welcome to Cooperstown, New York, which has been called “America’s most perfect village.” Home to the National Baseball Hall of Fame and Museum, this is a place where baseball is not just a sport—it’s a way of life. You’ll find hot dogs everywhere you look, shops selling professional bats, and even a distillery that bottles its creations in baseball-shaped decanters.

But there’s more to Cooperstown than baseball. “What drew me here was the sense of community and a small-town feel that’s like no other place,” says Keith Gulla, who owns the 1856 Landmark Inn with his husband, John Walker. Keith and John had been living in Boston, but they always dreamed of having their own inn. The pandemic inspired them to take the leap and buy this Italianate mansion—and they couldn’t be happier. “With a population as small as Cooperstown, it’s hard to believe that we have access to amazing museums, live music, great food, a beautiful lake, hiking trails, breweries, and so much more,” says Keith.

Two other creative types who have lived all over the world but choose to settle down in Cooperstown are Mitchell Owens (a writer for World of Interiors magazine) and his husband Matthew Zwissler (who runs Irwin and Lane, a new antique store downtown). What Matthew loves: “The unspoiled beauty. Pretty much everywhere you look is a beautiful sight, be it the lake or the forest or the abundant wildlife. It’s not unusual to see bald eagles on a weekly basis.”

Matthew says he was a little nervous about opening an antique store in a baseball town. “But so many people lamented the fact we didn't have an antique store—myself included,” says Matthew. Now, Irwin and Lane is part of an influx of new businesses helping transform Cooperstown’s Main Street.

Another thing going for Cooperstown: a vibrant arts and culture scene, thanks to figures like the novelist James Fenimore Cooper (whose father founded the village) and a rich history dating back to the days of the Native Americans. “I’m never bored by Cooperstown,” says Mitch. “I take two-hour walks every other day, and there’s enough architecture, enough design detail, and enough history to keep me sufficiently fascinated.”

Sounds like all the ingredients for a perfect WeekEnder escape—a home run.

-Laura Begley Bloom, New York's Senior WeekEnder Writer

There aren’t many hotels in Cooperstown, but the ones on our list have plenty of style and character.

Built in 1909 on Otsego Lake, this hotel is the grande dame in town, complete with a golf course and a private dock with canoes and kayaks. “It’s lovely to have drinks on the upper terrace just off the lobby, which has wonderful rocking chairs and lots of Boston ferns,” says Mitchell Owens.

Stately 160-year-old maple trees line the driveway to the 1856 inn, which breaks the mold of the traditional B&B with an in-house shop that sells products from local artisans, a fire pit complete with s’mores, and cool programming like a partnership with the Otsego Pride Alliance for Cooperstown’s first ever Pride Weekend (June 1-4).

From May to September, this 18-room historic hotel can organize private tours of the nearby Baseball Hall of Fame

Built in 1890, this charming hotel is hidden down a residential side street with 22 railroad-themed rooms and suites for rent.

From hole-in-the-wall finds to restaurants with lake views, these are our picks for eating well in Cooperstown.

Stagecoach Coffee - A family-operated roastery with light bites. “Terrific bagels, really good coffee, and a lovely little terrace,” says Mitchell Owens.

Lake Front Restaurant - Kids like to feed the ducks at this spot right next to a marina—and the food is top-notch. “I used to sneer at it because I thought it was touristy, but now we go frequently,” says Mitch. “I love the Bloody Marys and the omelets.”

Cooperstown Diner - Pancakes for dinner, anyone? You can get breakfast all day at this tiny diner—one of the world’s smallest.

Hawkeye Bar & Grill - Grab a table on the terrace overlooking the lake and order the burger—you’ll thank us.

Mel’s at 22 - Unique flavors like beet risotto topped with roasted cauliflower or togarashi-crusted cod. “There are so many great places to eat in Cooperstown but this is one of our go-to restaurants,” says Keith Gulla. “I really like the diversity of the menu with specials that change daily.”

The Blue Mingo Grill - Hidden away in a boatyard is this open-air waterfront find with seafood classics (lobster rolls, fish tacos, crab cakes) and ingredients sourced from local herb and vegetable gardens.

Upstate Bar and Grill - “A steakhouse with wonderful Bluegrass music on the weekends,” says Mitch.

Bocca Osteria - A laidback Italian spot with creative pizzas and pastas. Mitch recommends the flash-fried calamari sautéed with olive oil, lemon, lime, orange, and hot cherry peppers.

Toscana Italian Fusion & Grill - “Some of the best Italian food I’ve ever had,” says Mitch, who is a fan of the Corsican sardines in lemon and olive oil and the pan-seared haddock in a garlic-Chardonnay sauce.

Origins Cafe at Carefree Gardens - This atmospheric cafe run by two sisters is set in a plant-filled greenhouse in their family’s nursery. “Everything is locally sourced and healthy,” says Matthew.

Rose & Kettle - It’s worth the detour to the neighboring village of Cherry Valley for farm-to-table dishes like cod served with a tomato tarragon beurre blanc or roasted pork shoulder with saffron risotto. “One of the best restaurants in the area,” says Mitch.

Tin Bin Alley - “A terrific candy store, as every parent of any child in Cooperstown knows,” says Mitch. “It’s got old-fashioned display cases and candy in glass jars.”

Brewery Ommegang - This craft brewery is named after a popular festival in Brussels that dates back to the 16th century. Enjoy a flight of brews and a plate of poutine as you take in the views of the countryside from the outdoor patio. “Their Belgian Ommegang ale is the best,” says Mitch.

Cooperstown Distillery - Sports fans will love the signed baseball decanters featuring the greats of the game—and the stuff inside is really good, too. “A great place for a drink after a long day of shopping,” says Matthew.

This town has a longstanding cultural legacy that continues to attract artists and performers. “Cooperstown is a cultural center for the region, and there’s always something to see,” says Mitchell Owens

National Baseball Hall of Fame and Museum - Check out Babe Ruth’s World Series glove and learn about the history of America’s favorite pastime. “I am not a sports person by any stretch of the imagination, but the history of anything fascinates me,” says Mitch.

Glimmerglass Festival - Originally called Glimmerglass Opera, this summer music event—hosted in a dramatic barn-like structure on the shores of Otsego Lake—changed its name a few years ago to reflect the breadth of the offerings. “It’s got a huge international draw,” says Mitch.

Fenimore Art Museum - Set on land once owned by James Fenimore Cooper, this museum is in a 1933 mansion built by Edward Severin Clark, an heir to the Singer Manufacturing Company fortune. Today, the museum has impressive collections of folk art, Hudson River School paintings, and Native American artwork, plus rare artifacts like letters exchanged by Alexander Hamilton and Aaron Burr.

Hyde Hall - At the north end of Otsego Lake is this sprawling mansion, a National Historic Landmark. “It’s the sort of house that scholars rave over,” says Mitch. “It’s a breathtakingly beautiful temple of a house that still has all the original 1830s lighting, which actually works.”

The Farmers’ Museum - This living history museum set on an old farm gives a snapshot of the area’s agrarian roots. “It’s Cooperstown’s version of Colonial Williamsburg,” says Mitch. Don’t miss the handcrafted Empire State Carousel.

The Smithy - Pottery and clay classes, as well as exhibitions in the oldest building in Cooperstown—an authentic blacksmith shop.

The nature in this area is majestic. Here are a few of the highlights in and around Cooperstown.

Otsego Lake - James Fenimore Cooper gave this lake its nickname, “Glimmerglass,” since the water looks like glass, with the surrounding mountains reflecting on the surface. Bonus: There are plenty of ways to enjoy the lake, from kayaking to boating.

Glimmerglass State Park - Pack a picnic and head here to see the oldest wooden covered bridge in the country, hike from Sleeping Lion Trailhead, or go fishing.

Star Field - Star Field was once the site of Chalet Farm, a 200-acre property owned by James Fenimore Cooper. These days, it’s a relaxed hike that winds through a forest to an overlook with views of Otsego Lake.

Rail Explorers - This is probably the easiest ride you’ll ever experience—on pedal-powered bikes that follow 12 miles of railway through farmlands and forests along the banks of the Susquehanna River.

Leatherstocking Golf Course - Located at The Otesaga Resort Hotel, this 18-hole course is both challenging and scenic. The best hole is on an island in the middle of Otsego Lake.

No surprise: Many of the shops here are baseball-oriented, but there are some other finds scattered throughout Cooperstown.

Irwin and Lane - Owner Matthew Zwissler has an eye for one-of-a-kind treasures and stocks his new store with a tastefully eclectic mix of vintage and antique pieces, including Chinese ceramics, Empire chairs, French furniture, neoclassical Italian mirrors, and even some shell-encrusted items that he makes himself.

Cooperstown Cheese Company - “One hidden gem that I tell our guests about is the amazing cheesecake at the Cooperstown Cheese Company,” says Keith Gulla. “They sell it by the slice, but I’ve seen guests buy a whole frozen cheesecake so they can bring it on the plane and have it defrosted by the time they get home.”

Cooperstown Farmers’ Market - “My favorite thing to do is to stop by the Cooperstown Farmers’ Market on the weekend. You’ll see a nice representation of local farmers, artisans, and small businesses doing what they do best,” says Keith.

Cooperstown Bat Company - If you’ve ever dreamed of having a professional baseball bat, this is your place—and you can even get it personalized. You can also visit the factory just outside town.

Kate’s Upstate - “An exciting women’s clothing store that just opened in a historic bank building,” says Mitch.