How to see the northern lights in Iceland

Some people consider me lucky. I grew up in Alaska chasing the northern lights (a pretty common sighting from late August through April). For most travelers, seeing the aurora is a once-in-a-lifetime bucket list experience. And while it was never totally new for me, seeing the show was so life-changing I dedicated my career to astrotourism. Now, I travel just to witness incredible astronomical experiences like eclipses, comet spotting, and, yes, the northern lights (I’ll never let that go).

When it comes to northern lights travel, Norway usually gets the lionshare of attention, but I can tell you that Iceland is just as awe-inspiring. There’s nothing like watching the lights dancing across the sky above a glowing glacial lagoon or reflecting on a jet black-sand Icelandic beach. Plus, this island nation has very little light pollution, hotels that will help you with spotting (even aurora wake-up calls), and plenty of mind-blowing experiences for when the sun is up. And let’s not forget how convenient it is to get there, just a short flight from the east coast.

So let’s step out under the stars to try and see the norðurljós in Iceland. I can’t guarantee clear skies, but these tips will help you have the best chances to tick this experience off your bucket list.

The light needs to be right: You might be surprised to learn that aurora activity actually happens all year long. The only reason you can’t see it during certain parts of the year is because of the length of the day. The key to seeing the northern lights is darkness; it’s got to be dark enough for the ethereal and often faint light of elements hitting our atmosphere to be visible. One thing to know: Cameras are more sensitive, which is why you can often get an incredible photo even though you can barely see anything.

When to go: In Iceland—as in Alaska, where I grew up—the season between September and April is the time of year when it’s dark enough for a long enough stretch. And you don’t need to go in the dead of winter: Aurora activity tends to peak near the equinoxes, September 21 and March 21.

Plan to stay for at least three nights: A lot of people plan a long weekend trip, with only two nights. Take my advice: Plan a trip with at least three nights (ideally more) to have the best chances.

Use tech to improve your chances: Yes, there’s an app for that. The Icelandic Met Office runs a helpful site with real-time aurora and weather forecast tools. Aurora Service also has great tools for seeing the aurora forecast for the whole northern hemisphere, including Iceland.

Stay warm: You'll be spending a lot of time outside, so bring hand and foot warmers—every local guide and avid aurora chaser’s secret to keeping toasty even when the temps drop below zero.

Iceland is a relatively undeveloped country, from the perspective of light pollution—the biggest enemy to enjoying the night sky (even when there’s no aurora). Here are some of my favorite locations.

Although Reykjavik is Iceland’s largest city, it has surprisingly little light pollution compared to other capital cities, so it’s possible to see the aurora when the activity is strong enough. If you’re staying in the center and the lights are on display, my advice is to head to the Grandi area near the Old Harbour or the iconic Sun Voyager sculpture and look north across Faxaflói Bay.

Where to stay: Base yourself just outside town at the suitably named Northern Lights Inn, which is just minutes from the Blue Lagoon and Reykjavik’s Keflavik International Airport. The hotel is surrounded by an otherworldly lava landscape and has a dedicated aurora viewing platform.

Set on the shores of the Ytri-Rangá river, Hella is a small town (population 942) in southern Iceland. There's tons to do during the day—waterfalls, caves, horseback riding—but nighttime is the highlight.

Where to stay: The grand-daddy for aurora chasers is the Hotel Rangá, a log cabin-style spot alongside the Rangá Salmon River in Hella. It invented the idea of the aurora wake-up call (which has been copied elsewhere). When the skies are behaving, Rangá has a local astronomer on-call to help explain the science behind the northern lights and all those other stars you can see. The best place to watch the northern lights: from Hotel Ranga’s outdoor hot tub.

The legendary Thingvellir National Park is a major attraction along the Golden Circle. It gets ink dark at night, making it one of Iceland's prime viewing locations.

Where to stay: The ION Adventure Hotel is surrounded by windows to give incredible views even when you’re indoors—though rooms can be expensive in prime season. Want to save a few bucks? Stay at the Héraðsskólinn Historic Guesthouse, a Tripadvisor Travelers' Choice Awards winner set right next to natural steam baths.

When you come to Jökulsárlón, you have a chance of photographing two amazing works of nature at once: the northern lights and this breathtaking glacial lake, which is one of Iceland’s greatest natural wonders.

Where to stay: Depending on your budget, you can splurge at Fosshotel Glacier Lagoon (with an amazing spa) or save at Skyrhúsid Guest House, which has shared bathrooms in some of the rooms but is worth it to save a few krona.