A perfect Vermont weekend: fall foliage, craft beer, and great food

Note: This story was updated in October 2024.

There’s a local saying in Burlington, Vermont that goes like this: “The best thing about Burlington is how close it is to Vermont.”

In other words, explains Matt Canning, general manager at Hotel Vermont, “It’s a little urban enclave in an otherwise rural state. So there’s access to the outdoors, but Burlington also punches above its weight when it comes to music and culture and food and beverage.”

Canning was born and bred in Burlington. He moved away for a bit, but happily returned to help open Hotel Vermont. It celebrates everything this special community has to offer, from brewers and cheesemakers to the jumping local jazz scene to the area’s world-class cycling (the hotel has free bikes for guests to use). “There’s so much to love about Burlington,” he says. “And here’s a secret—it’s just a 38-minute flight from New York City, so it’s really easy to get here, though you can also drive.”

Another perk about coming to Burlington right now: its changing leaves. Since the season peaks a little later than the rest of Vermont, thanks to its lower-elevation spot in the Champlain Valley, fall colors last into November. “Burlington is so beautiful, right on the lake with views of the Adirondack Mountains—people come from all over the world to check out our fall foliage,” says Luis Calderin, founder of Santiago’s Cuban Cuisine. ​

And then there’s the buzzing food scene, which Calderin is a part of. “Over the last 15 to 20 years, Burlington was a leader in farm-to-table thanks to all of the local farmers who are in such close proximity to our town,” Calderin says. But Burlington is still evolving. Calderin is a first-generation Cuban-American who moved to the area from Miami when he was 12 years old. Calderin opened Santiago’s with his business partner, chef Oscar Arencibia. They serve their families’ Cuban recipes—ropa vieja, flan, mojitos—in a plant-filled space that’s straight out of Havana.

“Santiago’s has just been blowing everybody’s heads off, from the way they designed the space to the menus,” says Harmony Edosomwan, another local entrepreneur who has also been moving the needle in the Burlington food scene with Harmony’s Kitchen, serving Afro-fusion soul food at pop-up supper clubs and catering events around town.

“When people think of Vermont, they tend to just think of maple syrup or cheddar cheese, but there’s so much more to what’s going on here,” says Edosomwan, who originally made a name for herself selling fried chicken (locals say she makes the best in the state), honey-glazed cornbread, and baked mac and cheese from her home. “I would have a line of folks outside of my apartment just waiting for food because it was something different,” she says. “People here really like to support underground and niche food scenes.”

Hungry yet? We are, too. So join The WeekEnder as we head to Vermont for a weekend of eating and hiking and plenty of colorful leaves.

The options are almost endless in Burlington—from hip downtown hotels surrounded by restaurants and shops to pretty country retreats. Here are a few of the best.

This hotel embraces all things Vermont, from locally sourced coffee to decor by area artists. A cozy-yet-chic oasis, it has wood fireplaces, a fire pit, and a thoughtful list of amenities like fresh-baked cookies and milk at bedtime. “It’s the best in town—a really beautiful, well-designed space with views of the lake,” says Calderin. “The restaurants are great, the lounge is awesome, and they have incredible music anchored by Ray Vega, an internationally acclaimed Latin jazz musician.”

From the street, you’ll see a gracious brick mansion dating to 1881, but past its front doors are interiors straight out of a design magazine. Expect one-of-a-kind furniture (like a mid-century modern sectional sofa from Sweden in the plant-filled solarium) and gas fireplaces in many of the rooms.

The four-room Made Inn Vermont is not your average B&B. It’s got a cool artistic vibe that the owner calls “Soho funky meets New England history,” with piles of books—and loads of personality—everywhere.

This nonprofit is dedicated to sustainability and celebrating rural life with classes in cheesemaking, sheep-shearing, forest bathing, and more. The inn closes for the season in mid-October and reopens in May. But throughout the year, there are 1,400 acres of pastures, woodlands, and walking trails for wandering.

Vermont is a hotbed for the farm-to-table movement—and so much more.

The Cafe Hot in Burlington - “They make a playful, meatless take on egg sandwiches and really interesting donuts. It’s a super cool Sunday morning experience,” says Calderin.

Bleu Northeast Kitchen in Burlington - Lake views set the scene at this restaurant that serves up ingredients sourced from farms, forests, and waters throughout the Northeast. “I love the seafood Benedict,” says Canning.

Grey Jay in Burlington - Grey Jay serves up Mediterranean- and Middle Eastern-inspired brunch and breakfast favorites, from shakshuka to tahini iced coffee to lamb burgers.

Juniper Bar & Restaurant in Burlington - This ingredient-driven cocktail bar has a hopping weekend brunch scene. “The red flannel hash is always a hit,” says Canning.

Al’s French Frys in Burlington - Thanks to its fresh-cut fries, Al’s has been an institution since the 1940s and earned a shoutout from the James Beard Foundation.

Daily Planet in Burlington - This boho spot makes creative, seasonally inspired dishes like pan-roasted duck breast with BBQ peach glaze. “The Neil’s Nachos are my go-to,” says Edosomwan.

Zabby and Elf’s Stone Soup in Burlington - “It’s an institution—as Burlington as it gets,” says Calderin. Don’t miss the soup of the day and sandwich combo (we love the BLT with smoked paprika aioli).

Santiago’s Cuban Cuisine in Burlington - Bringing a taste of Havana to Burlington, this Cuban restaurant is part of the city’s emerging international food scene. “I love to go for the pork lechon, which I tend to get with the red beans and white rice,” says Edosomwan.

Restaurant Poco in Burlington - You'll find dishes like katsu fried chicken with sesame nori mayo and soy chili sauce at this globally inspired food truck turned tapas bar. “They do really interesting shareables in a small room that’s got a hip Montreal vibe” says Calderin.

Bedidi Love in Burlington - This food cart on Church street is the place for Ghanaian food. “One of the signature foods that they do is the jollof rice, which is a national dish in West Africa—it’s really nice,” says Edosomwan.

Harmony’s Kitchen in Burlington - Edosomwan started this supper club series as a way to share her Afro-fusion soul food—and create community. “It’s about storytelling and breaking cornbread together,” says Calderin.

May Day in Burlington - “A hip spot with really great small plates,” says Calderin. Check out dishes like the beer-battered skate cheeks and the mushroom tartine with ricotta and hot honey.

Onion City Chicken & Oyster in Winooski - This comfort food spot draws diners to Winooski, which is often referred to as the Brooklyn of Burlington. “They’ve got the greatest chicken outside of Harmony’s fried chicken, plus amazing oyster options,” says Calderin. As for the Rough Francis—a buffalo chicken sandwich named after a local rock band—Calderin dubs it his favorite sandwich second only to his own Cubano.

Hen of the Wood in Burlington - The superstar in town is this locally sourced restaurant run by award-winning chef Eric Warnstedt and his partner, William McNeil. “Those guys are incredible—the benchmark of what is considered farm-to-table,” says Calderin. The signature dish is the hen-of-the-wood mushroom toast that gave the restaurant its name.

Honey Road in Burlington - Cara Tobin, executive chef and owner of Honey Road—and a 2024 James Beard finalist—is known for her sophisticated Mediterranean small plates. “She does a lot of vegetable-forward dishes,” says Canning. “It’s a super fun date-night spot, but approachable on all fronts.”

Bistro de Margot in Burlington - Owner Hervé Mahé honed his skills at Michelin-starred restaurants in Paris, London, and Seattle, then brought French classics—foie gras, escargots, steak au poivre—to Burlington. “A traditional, well-executed, chef-driven French restaurant,” says Canning.

Waterworks Food + Drink in Winooski - An old mill has been transformed into a restaurant with desserts that make it worth the visit. Our pick: the peanut butter pie topped with warm fudge, Reese’s crumble, and whipped cream.

Foam Brewers in Burlington - This brewhouse in a former door factory makes small-batch craft beers using local grains and herbs. “It’s down on the waterfront with awesome views of the lake,” says Canning.

Zero Gravity in Burlington - Grab a Green State Lager (an evergreen on the menu) and head to the sunny beer garden at this craft brewery in the South End, Burlington’s arts district. Like beer for breakfast? It opens at 8 a.m.

Burlington Beer Company in Williston - This Williston brewery does creative brews infused with local fruit, vegetables, and spices—like the Vaulted Blue, an IPA with candied citrus peel, ripe peaches, and pine sap. Calderin likes to keep it simple with the flagship Lighthouse, a classic lager.

You don’t need to roam far to get a breath of fresh air and connect with nature—in all its vibrant colors at this time of the year.

Burlington Bike Path in Burlington - Converted from a railway to a bike path in the 1970s, this easy trail crosses through parks and winds its way along the lakeshore.

Overlook Park in Burlington - For the best sunset in town, head to this pretty 1.7-acre park overlooking Lake Champlain.

Mt. Philo State Park in Charlotte - An easy one-mile hike takes you to the peak for breathtaking views of the Adirondack Mountains. “During foliage, we love sending folks to Mount Philo,” says Canning.

A Dog Skatepark in Burlington - Here’s another way to get out and enjoy the great outdoors: a skatepark that fuses urban art and extreme sports and was named in honor of legendary local DJ and skateboarder, Andy “A_Dog” Williams. “If you’re into skateboarding or BMX, it’s incredible,” says Calderin.

Sam Mazza’s Farm Market in Colchester - “They have hay rides, a corn maze, and a cute store with mostly local ingredients and local food makers,” says Edosomwan. “I just went here to get pumpkins for some maple pumpkin cornbread that I’m making.”

Champlain Orchards in Shoreham - A little farther out of town is this ecologically-managed orchard with an artisanal bakery and cider crafted from its fruit (be sure to try the special seasonal blends).

Art, music, theater, history—take your pick. “There's so much energy and so much culture in Burlington,” says Calderin.

Burlington City Arts Center in Burlington - A contemporary art venue in an old firehouse with exhibitions and interactive workshops in photography, painting, and more. “This organization does a lot of important work in the art space,” says Canning.

Flynn Center for the Performing Arts in Burlington - From Broadway theater to comedy to thought-provoking plays, this performing arts space does it all in a beautifully restored vaudeville theater.

ECHO, Leahy Center for Lake Champlain in Burlington - The “ECHO” in the name stands for “ecology, culture, history, and opportunity”—it’s an interactive science museum that celebrates Lake Champlain, known as America’s “sixth great lake.”

Thanks to a city filled with creative types, Burlington’s shopping scene is truly one of a kind.

Church Street Marketplace in Burlington - This open-air mall in the heart of downtown has more than 100 shops packed into a four-block stretch. One of Edosomwan’s top stops: Old Gold, a vintage boutique.

The Soda Plant in Burlington - At this reimagined industrial space in the South End arts district, there are more than 40 makers and artists. “It’s fun to get a coffee at Brio Coffee, check out the galleries, and pop into a few clothing boutiques,” says Canning.

Thirty-odd in Burlington - Another South End space filled with artisans. Edosomwan is a fan of the jewelry designer Soul Simone, who sells her handcrafted pieces here.

AO Glass in Burlington - Like the soap dishes in the rooms at the Hotel Vermont? They’re handmade by skilled craftspeople at this innovative glass-blowing studio. “They're one of the highlights of the artisan art scene in Burlington,” says Canning.

The Flying Pig Bookstore in Shelburne - It’s worth a detour to this bookshop in Shelburne, which is heaven for bookworms. Poke through the well-curated collection and chat with the passionate staff of literary buffs.