Washington D.C. for the Weekend: How to eat like a local

With summer finally here, we’re venturing a little further afield for our weekend getaways. So guess where The WeekEnder is headed for our next food escape? Our nation’s food capital: Washington D.C.

Media outlets ranging from Bloomberg to Bon Appetit have called D.C. the most exciting food city in America, and we couldn’t agree more. Part of the reason: “D.C. is so international. We all collectively run our restaurants to be more than restaurants. We actively seek to educate people about other cultures with every meal,” says Rose Previte, who was named Washington’s coolest restaurateur and is the culinary mastermind behind the Michelin-starred Maydan and Compass Rose, a restaurant inspired by global street foods.

Another thing going for D.C. is its entrepreneurial spirit. “We’re a community of restaurants that are 96% independently owned,” says Rose. “That’s very unique for a major city, and the personal touch of having owners in the restaurants makes a dining experience more special.”

In this issue of the WeekEnder, we’ll introduce you more to Rose, plus a handful of other plugged-in locals. You’ll meet Soung Wiser, who runs the trailblazing All Souls Bar (as well as a local design studio) with her husband, David Batista. Then there’s Erik Bruner-Yang, a multi-James Beard finalist who is the creative force behind Maketto, a three-level Asian market with a retail store, coffee shop, and restaurant. These insiders will spill their secret addresses, from the city’s best food neighborhood to chef-run restaurants and craft cocktail bars that are redefining the way D.C. eats. Getting hungry yet?

-Laura Begley Bloom, New York's Senior WeekEnder Writer

Chef and restaurateur Rose Previte was raised in a food-loving, Sicilian-Lebanese family in Ohio, then made her way to D.C. to get a master’s degree in public policy. But her life took a detour when her husband, NPR correspondent David Greene, was sent to Russia on assignment. While living abroad, Rose started to explore the region and fell in love with the food in countries like Georgia and Ukraine. After returning to D.C., she decided to share her discoveries at her first restaurant, Compass Rose, which she opened along the trendsetting 14th Street Corridor. A few years later and a few blocks away, she created the critically acclaimed Maydan, which is built around a two-story, wood-burning hearth.

Not far from the White House and the National Mall, the 14th Street Corridor is a tree-shaded neighborhood that stretches between P and U streets in the Northwest quadrant of Washington D.C and is lined with vintage row houses and buzzing restaurants and bars. But when Rose moved here more than a decade ago, it was a very different place. “It was pretty dangerous,” says Rose.

Fast forward to today: Thanks to trailblazers like Rose, the 14th Street Corridor is the city’s hippest area to live and eat. “A lot has happened on the corridor in the last ten years and I'm thrilled my restaurants could be part of it,” says Rose. “I’m most happy that while there has been a lot of development, a lot of important places have stood the test of time.” Here, Rose shares her favorite places in the area.

Rice - One of the first restaurants to pop up on 14th street is this Thai restaurant set in a minimalist, sleek space. The latest addition to the space: “During Covid they opened a store underneath the restaurant that has a million wonderful surprises, from grab-and-go delights like spring rolls and cold noodle dishes to beautiful Thai dishware and kitchen gadgets.”

Le Diplomate - Restaurateur Stephen Starr transformed an old dry cleaner into the perfect French bistro. “Sit outside on nice days on one of their three different patio spaces and enjoy a seafood tower. Or grab a spot inside at the marble bar and have a French 75. And don’t miss the bread basket.”

Pearl Dive Oyster Palace - This is the place for New Orleans-inspired seafood, inventive cocktails, and a great wine list. “The shrimp po boy is not to be missed.”

Etto - “A neighborhood and industry favorite, this Venetian-style pizzeria is where the bartenders and servers go when they are off work. They have amazing pies like a Sicilian eggplant pizza, all cooked in a wood-fired oven.”

Cork Wine Bar - “This female-owned bistro and wine bar introduced D.C. to avocado toast, and you should not leave the city without trying it. There’s also an extensive wine shop where you can pick up bread, charcuterie, and cheese.”

Cafe Saint-Ex - “The OG bar on the corridor. While the owners have changed over the years, it’s still a great neighborhood place for a beer or cocktail if you want to meet people who actually live in the neighborhood.”

Jane Jane - According to Rose, this mid-century modern neighborhood gem has the best cocktail list on 14th street, plus snacks like a classic cheese ball made with sharp cheddar, cream cheese, chives, bacon, and pecans. “Ask for JP and tell him Rose sent you.”

Left Door - You need to be in the know to find out about this tiny cocktail bar above a dry cleaner. “They do classic cocktails like no one else in the neighborhood. It’s authentic and sexy and makes you feel like a local — if you can manage to get a seat.”

Chicken + Whiskey - Peruvian style chicken in the front and a whiskey-focused speakeasy bar in the back. “Great music, too, as one of the owners is a long-time D.C. DJ.”

Colada Shop - “Daniella Senior is the badass owner of this growing empire, which has a classic Cubano sandwich that’s better than what you’ll find in Cuba.” Rose’s advice: Come for Cuban coffee in the morning and return at happy hour for the slushee piña colada.

The Wydown - “This tiny coffee shop is run by two brothers who take coffee very seriously. Don’t miss the baked goods or the breakfast sandwiches.”

Ice Cream Jubilee - “There is love in every scoop. My favorite: the miso caramel peanut butter cookie ice cream.”

The brainchild of Soung Wiser — whose design and branding firm, General Design Co., is the secret weapon behind many successful D.C. restaurants — and her husband, David Batista, who worked with chef José Andrés at Jaleo and Zaytinya, All Souls is the neighborhood bar of your dreams. Set in an historic carriage house in the up-and-coming Shaw district, it’s simple yet satisfying, with just a few dozen chairs, a pared-down cocktail menu (including the city’s best Negroni, according to Time Out), a few bar snacks, and an excellently curated jukebox.

What they love about D.C. is that there are so many thoughtful, welcoming, chef-owned restaurants and bars like All Souls — spots that will make you feel like an immediate insider. “The places on our list deliver inspired food with relaxed, intuitive service. We love that each one has a personality that comes from the owners being an intimate part of the story,” says Soung. “If I had to sum up what makes D.C. special in one word, it would be 'camaraderie.'”

This summer, Soung and David are opening a new spot, The Little Grand, which will serve cocktails and pizza in the H Street neighborhood. In the meantime, here are some of the chef-owned places they recommend visiting.

Anju - “I love that the owners (Danny Lee and his mother, Mama Lee) are a major part of the story but they have created space to give their team room to shine,” says David. “No one can compete with my mom’s cooking, of course, but I'll take chef Angel Barreto’s elegant Korean food anytime,” says Soung.

Elle - This indie hotspot from Nick Pimentel and pastry chef Lizzy Evelyn has a retro-chic décor and cool staff. “The menu is eclectic, the space is comfortable, and as a person who always prefers the bar, theirs is a winner,” says David.

Happy Gyro and Happy Ice Cream - A casual pizzeria with a spin-off handmade ice cream parlor. David recommends the round sourdough pies, while Soung has only four words: “Black. Walnut. Tacos. Period.” Her ice cream of choice? Mint Chip.

Izakaya Seki - A minimalist space with Japanese small plates and noodle dishes. “Cizuka and her father are a powerhouse delivering a no-nonsense elegant experience,” says Soung. “They have a horse mackerel dish that is served sashimi style on its bones. Once you are done with the fish they take it away to deep fry and return to you in a whole new crispy reincarnation that I dream about.”

Martha Dear Pizzeria - “I have an enormous amount of respect for how Tara and Demetri are doing things on both fronts — food and service,” says Soung, who is a fan of the naturally leavened pizza dough.

Meats & Foods - “The personality is a reflection of Scott and Ana themselves. You’re greeted by an unexpected barrage of plants and bobbleheads in a tiny space where they also make their own sausages,” says Soung. Her go-to: the salt & pepper chicken.

Right Proper Brewing Co. - Brewpub with made-from-scratch Southern eats. “Their staff is really involved in the brewing process and making beer that is fun, eclectic, and not just hop-heavy IPAs,” says David. “And the food is solid pub fare that hits the spot every time.”

Zenebech Injera - Michelin-starred Ethiopian cuisine. “In a city with a lot of great family-run Ethiopian restaurants, the food is amazing,” says David. “Even though it’s across town in Adams Morgan, I will travel for those lentil sambusas,” says Soung.

Born in Taiwan, Erik Bruner-Yang moved to the D.C. area as a child and never left. No small feat, he has been credited with introducing D.C. to ramen in 2011. Erik has gone on to open trend-defining spots like Maketto, which takes its inspiration from Cambodia and Taiwan and is a D.C. gathering ground with a restaurant, store, coffee shop, and more. He is so passionate about connecting communities and giving back that during the pandemic he established a nonprofit, Power of 10 Initiative, to help restaurant workers impacted by Covid.

What Erik loves about D.C.: “It’s a destination that allows a lot of great entrepreneurship and great cooking.” Here are the places that top his hit list (including a few of his own).

Murry & Pauls - “This mom and pop spot has been here since the 1960s. It’s a no-frills, cash-only typical diner. I go for breakfast and get corned beef hash with eggs.”

LA Coop Coffee - “It’s the perfect light lunch — great coffee, savory pastries, and sweet pastries.”

Lutece - “My family likes to go to Paris a lot for vacation. This modern French bistro and wine bar in Georgetown is the closest you can get to what’s happening in the culinary scene in Paris right now — they nail it on the head.”

The Roost - “This little noodle stall in Southeast does dim sum and rice noodle stir fries. It’s a great place for vegans to go, but you can also add protein."

Victura Park - An indoor-outdoor café and bar that’s part of the Kennedy Center. “The idea is to connect. Order a charcuterie plate and a glass of rose.”

Maketto - Open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, this three-level spot is famous for its Tainwanese fried chicken. “We have a cool men’s streetwear store. We have a vintage record shop. And all the artists and musicians and local community leaders are always hanging out here.”

Here are our insiders’ top picks for the best places to stay.

With its prime location near Logan Circle and a rooftop pool with dazzling D.C. views, the Viceroy is a winner. What Rose Previte loves: “It’s got big rooms and good prices.”

“I love to do staycations at the Conrad,” says Erik Bruner-Yang. “They have a floor called the Sakura Club, which has its own private dining restaurant — breakfast and dinner is included in the stay.”

“My personal favorite of the moment,” says Rose. “It’s a new concept in an old hotel. Sleek and stylish, great bar, and meeting rooms. I can’t say enough good things.”

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