Weekend in Manchester, VT
In this issue of The WeekEnder, we’re heading to a winter wonderland: Manchester, Vermont, where you’re going to meet Cooper, our first-ever doggie expert. This 6-year-old Golden Retriever is the official chief happiness officer at The Equinox, Golf Resort & Spa. After all, doesn’t every hotel need a cuddly c-suite exec whose role is to bring a smile to everyone he meets?
You can spot Cooper (who has his own Instagram page) roaming the grounds of The Equinox with general manager Jay Sheldon, hosting a welcome wine hour on Fridays from 4-5 p.m., and taking guests on epic hikes. Since he can’t speak for himself, we got Jay—Cooper’s owner—to share what this pooch loves the most about his job. “Cooper loves to immerse himself in the nature that surrounds our resort,” says Jay. “He’s the happiest guy in town.”
That natural beauty is also what attracted Everton Brownie. “Vermont is a beautiful place. It’s quiet. You can relax. The snow and the countryside and the trees take you back in time,” says Everton, who has become a local culinary legend thanks to his Jamerican Cuisine Food Truck, which is parked next to the Orvis flagship store and lures diners from all over the state.
Everton moved to Vermont from Jamaica 18 years ago and worked at Stratton Mountain Resort, The Equinox, and Gringo Jack’s, where his Caribbean specials garnered a cult following. So during the height of Covid—August 2020—Everton took the leap and opened a Jamaican-themed food truck, which became an instant hit thanks to his fresh-made all-natural dishes like jerk chicken and curried goat.
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It was a combo of the Green Mountain landscapes and a killer ski scene that convinced our next expert—Oliver Mauk, the marketing director at Bromley Mountain—to move here. Oliver’s office in the base lodge has a huge picture window overlooking the slopes, so he gets to spend his days gazing out at this peak that’s known as Sun Mountain for its south-facing location. “When it’s firm and icy everywhere else, it’s a little bit softer here—we’re the only major mountain in New England that faces south,” he says. “The other nice thing about coming to Manchester: You can ski Bromley one day, Magic one day, and Stratton one day, since the three ski resorts are all within an easy drive.”
So join us for a quintessential Vermont weekend, as we ski, eat, shop, explore—and hang out with one very cute dog.
Where to stay
The Equinox, Golf Resort & Spa
Surrounded by 914 acres of protected woodland, The Equinox has been the hot spot in Manchester going back to the Revolutionary days. It originally opened in 1769 as the Marsh Tavern, where Ethan Allen’s brother Ira helped plot out a British rebellion. The restored main building gives guests a peek into the past while providing thoroughly modern comforts. Guests can go on Saturday morning Golden Hikes with the resident dog, Cooper, who is so well-versed with the trail that he could practically lead the way on his own. The hotel’s spa is another highlight, with massages, facials, a sauna, a hot tub, and more—the perfect place to rejuvenate after a day on the slopes.
Honorable hotel mentions
For Instagrammers: The Barnstead Inn
A New England carriage house built in the 1830s has been transformed into a chic stay. But a heads up: It’s only for ages 12 and older.
For sweethearts: Kimpton Taconic Hotel
With its clapboard architecture and grand front porch, this 86-room property is a modern take on Vermont’s traditional 18th century inns. Cozy up by the lobby’s two-sided wood-burning fireplace or curl up with a good book in the library.
For foodies: The Reluctant Panther Inn & Restaurant
This pretty inn is filled with antiques and has a beautiful garden on the grounds, but what really attracts guests is the chance to experience the serious culinary program.
For living like a local: The Inn at Manchester
With fireplaces in many of the rooms and a family of resident innkeepers who attend to every detail (like home-cooked breakfasts), you’ll feel like you’ve found your home away from home.
For an affordable sleep: Rest, a Modern Motel
On the road to Bromley, this low-key motel was recently given a sleek overhaul.
Where to eat
Farm-to-table is the name of the game in Manchester, where the dining options are endless.
Best breakfasts
Amy’s on the Road - Breakfast bites like the popular B.L.R.O.T. (a classic BLT topped with crispy onion rings) are served from a vintage Airstream trailer.
The Little Rooster Cafe - This farmhouse-style restaurant caters to sophisticated palates with lobster eggs Benedict, lemon ricotta pancakes topped with blueberry compote, and more.
Bob’s Diner - If you’re looking for a classic diner experience, there’s no other place to go.
Lunchtime
Mystic Cafe & Wine Bar - “A great little Italian spot. They make all the pasta in-house,” says Oliver Mauk.
Mulligans of Manchester - This classic Irish pub is beloved for its wings, decadent appetizers like loaded potato skins, and an epic list of Vermont craft beers.
Charlie’s Coffee House - Sandwiches, paninis, and homemade pastries like crave-worthy pumpkin chocolate chip muffins.
Après-ski
Johnny Seesaw’s in Peru - Located a few doors down from Bromley, this is a replica of a 1924 roadhouse. “They have a massive fire pit in the middle of the room,” says Oliver.
The Roundhouse - “A great, inexpensive place to grab an appetizer and a beer in a big space with lots of cool ski stuff on the walls,” says Oliver.
Global flavors
Jamerican Cuisine Food Truck - Orvis loved Everton Brownie’s Jamaican food so much the store asked him to set up a permanent food truck in its parking lot. The best seller is the jerk chicken, but Everton also makes mean curries (chicken, goat) and an ackee and saltfish dish that will transport you to the shores of Jamaica.
Thai Basil - Co-owners Nong Chompupong and chef Varit “Peter” Yanyoo have brought a taste of Thailand to Manchester with dishes like pork satay and curried crispy duck.
Moonwink - A native of Burma and an eighth-generation Vermonter fell in love in Brooklyn and relocated to Manchester, where they serve up home cooking inspired by co-owner May Stannard’s Burmese grandmother.
Gringo Jack’s - A bunch of self-proclaimed gringos make some surprisingly authentic Southwestern and Mexican bites. “I always get the enchilada with mole sauce,” says Everton, who used to work here.
Casual bites
Sam’s Wood Fired Pizza Co. - The star of the show: pies made in a wood-burning oven. Don’t miss Kat’s Vermonter, with bacon, green apples, gouda, and Vermont maple syrup.
The Union Underground - A new gastropub with live music and hearty Asian-inflected dishes like bang bang chicken and a Korean BBQ bowl.
Ravens Den - There’s something on the menu for everyone (even vegans) at this chef-owned steakhouse with an extensive list of wines, Vermont beers, and craft cocktails.
Date night
The Silver Fork - Fun fact: In 2021, this restaurant in a former library with massive walls of windows was named the best date night restaurant in the U.S. by Tripadvisor readers.
Chop House - Located in the club quarters of The Equinox’s historic Marsh Tavern, this is a serious steakhouse. The best seats in the house: by the stone fireplace that the Green Mountain Boys used as a meeting spot back in 1853.
Reluctant Panther - This quietly elegant spot is all about heart-warming cuisine: lobster fondue, duck breast, pan-seared scallops, bacon gnocchi. “It’s within walking distance of The Equinox and does a fantastic job in terms of service, ambiance, and food,” says Jay Sheldon.
Copper Grouse - The focus at this sophisticated spot is on locally-sourced ingredients and seasonally changing dishes, including cheddar ale soup, cider-brined chicken, and maple crème brulee. “They always have crazy interesting cocktails and really good food,” says Oliver.
Social House - A couple who used to work at New York City’s Le Bernardin moved to Manchester and opened this Mediterranean-inspired restaurant with small plates, seafood towers, Vermont cheese boards, and craft cocktails.
Sweets
Mother Myrick's Confectionery - The Buttercrunch (toffee with Cabot Creamery butter) and the Lemon LuLu Cake (lemon pound cake topped with a delicate glaze) are the desserts to order at this sweets shop where everything is made in-house.
What to do
Skiing
For skiers, Manchester rules, with three excellent mountains within a small radius: Bromley, Magic, and Stratton. Here are our cheat sheets. Pro-top: You can find out about deals from our pals over at Ski Vermont, which also has a handy guide to current ski conditions.
The top line: One of the oldest continuously running ski areas in the United States, Bromley is a quick, 11-minute drive from the center of Manchester. It’s family-friendly and has a popular early ski program for kids, but there are also plenty of black diamond runs to keep experts entertained. “It skis like a big mountain, but it’s accessible, easy to navigate, and a good place to learn,” says Oliver Mauk.
On the slopes: Bromley is on the smaller side for Vermont ski mountains—but it packs a powerful punch, with 47 trails, 9 lifts, and two terrain parks, all spread across 178 skiable acres that never seem to get too crowded. Plus, it’s a south-facing mountain, which helps keep the snow softer.
Best runs: “Runaround is a great green trail from the top. It’s a way for beginners or low intermediates to ski the whole mountain,” says Oliver. “I love skiing on the east side of the mountain on the steeper trails like Stargazer, Havoc, and Blue Ribbon.”
Lift tickets: Unlike many mountains, Bromley is flexible when it comes to lift tickets. If you bought tickets in advance and don’t like the conditions that day, you can use them anytime this season. For more information, see the ticketing options page.
On-piste dining: The dining is simple here, with the Wild Boar Tavern and a marketplace cafeteria. On weekends and holidays, there are pop-up food spots like Gooey Gourmet, a grilled-cheese stand.
The top line: It’s not cheap and it can get crowded, but serious skiers are happy to make the 30-minute drive from Manchester to experience this big-name ski resort that’s known for its wide variety of terrain, extensive amenities, and a village complete with shops and restaurants. “The village has an après-ski atmosphere that feels like a Colorado ski resort,” says Jay Sheldon.
On the slopes: At 3,875 feet, Stratton is the highest peak in southern Vermont, with 99 trails, 11 lifts, and several terrain parks sprawling across more than 670 acres. If downhill skiing isn’t your thing, there’s also snowmobiling, snowshoeing, cross-country, and snow tubing.
Best runs: Looking for easy terrain where you can avoid the crowds? Head to the Tamarack lift. The Shooting Star lift was introduced a few years ago to much fanfare: The seamless ride takes you from the base of Sun Bowl to the top of the mountain for a long ride down.
Lift tickets: Sales are sometimes limited in an effort to reduce crowding. Icon Pass holders can use their passes here, no reservations required. For more information, see the ticketing options page.
On-piste dining: There are plenty of places to eat. The lines get long for Grizzly’s restaurant in the base lodge, but in the neighboring ski village, you’ll also find an outpost of Mulligans, a sushi spot, a taco joint, and more.
The top line: A 25-minute drive from the center of town takes you to this small, independent resort with a mix of challenging terrain and kid-approved slopes. It’s popular with advanced skiers and snowboarders in search of a more intimate experience and families who want a laid-back vibe.
On the slopes: With 39 trails and 11 glades, Magic Mountain has some of the steepest terrain in Vermont. This is old-school skiing at its best, with no high-speed lifts: The trails haven’t changed much since the 1960s. Good to know: Magic only operates Thursday to Sunday and holidays, but when the powder is good on other days (more than six inches of snow by 6 a.m.), the mountain opens up.
Best runs: Loyalists love Magic’s narrow, twisting runs. Upper Magic Carpet is a fan favorite: a long trail that winds down the slope.
Lift tickets: This easy-to-access locally owned mountain accepts the Indy Pass, no reservations required. For more information, see the ticketing options page.
On-piste dining: There’s really only one option here: The Black Line Tavern, a great stop for a burger and a beer.
Adventures
If you’re not on the slopes, Manchester has plenty to keep sporty types busy for the weekend.
Snowshoeing: Besides its historic spaces (see below), Hildene, The Lincoln Family Home has 400 acres of groomed trails. Rent your equipment in town at The Mountain Goat.
Sleigh rides: A horse-drawn sleigh ride through the picturesque countryside at Taylor Farm in nearby Londonderry is the perfect way to take in the Vermont winter landscapes.
Ice skating: Want to take a spin on the ice? The Northshire Civic Center is home to an Olympic-sized indoor rink.
Hiking: There are phenomenal trails surrounding The Equinox hotel. “At the top of Mt. Equinox, you have views of Vermont, New Hampshire, Massachusetts, and (on a clear day) Mt. Royal in Montreal,” says Jay Sheldon. “This can be accessed by a 3.1-mile hike through the Equinox Preservation Trust trail system.”
Pinball: It’s part playspace, part museum at Pastime Pinball, which has more than 60 machines dating as far back as 1947. You can buy an unlimited pass or play for 30 minutes.
Arts and culture
Manchester punches above its weight when it comes to arts and culture. This is your highly curated winter shortlist.
Hildene, The Lincoln Family Home - The former home of Robert Todd Lincoln, the eldest son of President Abraham Lincoln, has been beautifully preserved. It’s great place to learn about the Lincoln family’s history.
American Museum of Fly Fishing - Besides celebrating fly fishing history and traditions, this museum promotes the conservation of the local waters. “Whether or not you’re into fly fishing, it’s cool to check out this museum right by the Orvis store,” says Oliver Mauk.
Manchester Hot Glass - Come home with your own one-of-a-kind handmade souvenir from this glass-blowing studio and gallery.
Southern Vermont Arts Center - At this 100-acre campus founded more than 50 years ago by a group of local artists, you’ll find multiple galleries showcasing classic and contemporary work.
Shopping
It’s known for its outlet scene, but Manchester also has an increasingly cool selection of unique one-off boutiques.
Northshire Bookstore - This family-owned bookstore (one of the largest in New England) isn’t just for bookworms. You’ll find more than 13,000 square feet of books, some of the best gift shopping around, and a children’s level that can keep the kids entertained for days with play spaces, reading areas, and toys galore. The two-level cafe is a destination in its own right.
Orvis - The flagship store for one of America’s greatest outdoor outfitters has a dazzling selection of fishing gear, plus an onsite angling school. “It’s one of the Manchester staples,” says Oliver Mauk. A tip: There’s also an Orvis outlet a stone’s throw away.
Coco Goose - This new clothing concept from the owners of Green Envy in Stowe and Burlington stocks fashion names big and small, from Ulla Johnson to Rag & Bone.
Sabi Mercantile - Mod homewares and apothecary items. Stop by for an espresso and bring your fur baby: Dogs are welcome.
Smugglers’ Notch Distillery Tasting Room - You can sip limited-edition spirits and sample local cheese and chocolates at this newish outpost of a small-batch craft distillery based in northern Vermont.
Above All Vermont - Everything you can think of that’s made and sourced in Vermont you’ll find here, from artisanal maple syrup to that moose-themed apron that you know you can’t resist.
Epoch Artisans Gallery - This nonprofit cooperative gallery sells works from an exceptional group of artisans.ll.