Asbury Park: The original rock-and-roll beach town

A few months ago in The WeekEnder’s Atlantic City edition, we introduced you to Pat Fasano, a Jersey native who is helping reinvent the seaside casino town. Pat has also left his mark on another nearby spot: Asbury Park, where locals call him an urban legend. This beach getaway used to be referred to as the Jewel of the Jersey Shore and even famously helped put Bruce Springsteen on the map. But after riots in the 70s, the town fell on hard times. “There was nothing — the whole strip was boarded up,” says Pat, who started converting dilapidated buildings into bars and restaurants back in the late 90s. “Now look at it.”

And indeed: When you see places like the Asbury Hotel, with its Soho-style interiors and panoramic rooftop bar, or Asbury Lanes, a sleek bowling alley and live music club, it’s hard to believe that this was a ghost town just 20 years ago. But even in the darkest days, Asbury held a certain allure. “It has always been a magnet for like-minded people: artists, musicians, tattooed bartenders,” says Pat.

This weekend, we’re kicking off the summer season with an edgy getaway to Asbury, where the latest generation of entrepreneurs is helping to make this area one of the coolest beach towns on the eastern seaboard. Take Albie and Chris Manzo, former Real Housewives of New Jersey stars, who are revamping the historic Berkeley hotel where Johnny Cash used to be an investor. “Our aim is to be part of the rising tide that is Asbury Park,” says Albie. Or curator Jenn Hampton, whose Wooden Walls Project has been beautifying the town with colorful murals. “I want people who come here to feel a sense of place that is different from other Jersey Shore towns,” she says.

Asbury is also home to innovators like David Lewis Jr., who cofounded MacroBites, a health-focused restaurant on the city’s West Side. In the early 1900s, the West Side had been home to a thriving music scene that attracted performers like Billie Holiday, but the neighborhood’s renaissance has been slower than other parts of Asbury (Downtown, the Boardwalk). “The people who live here have been left out of the development that’s going on,” says David. “We want to bring some of that to the West Side.”

So pack your bathing suit, tattoos optional, and let’s get ready to rock.

-Laura Begley Bloom, New York's Senior WeekEnder Writer

The first thing to know about Asbury Park is that it’s tiny — encompassing just 1.6 square miles — and only has a handful of hotels. Here’s our short list.

From morning yoga on the sprawling rooftop to drinks at the poolside VW Bus bar to movie screenings in the outdoor theater, the Asbury has it all. And it looks great — in photos and IRL. Coming with friends or a family? Book one of the clever (and affordable) Quad or Octo rooms, complete with bunk beds.

For people who want to be pampered, this 54-room boutique property has ocean views from every room and private open-air terraces. On the side of the building is a massive mural representing the diversity of Asbury Park.

It might not look like much from the outside, but with an owner like Shep Pettibone, who produced Madonna’s mega-hit "Vogue," you know the Empress will be distinctive. The pool scene is epic.

The oldest hotel in Asbury has quite a history: Johnny Cash owned a suite of rooms here until 1992. Now, reality stars Albie and Chris Manzo are breathing new life into the brick beachfront behemoth with an Asian gastropub (Bang Bang), all-female DJs by the pool, and more.

You won’t find many deals in the summer in Asbury, but this LGBTQ-owned B&B set in an old Victorian is the best bet.

Don’t come here expecting boring old Boardwalk basics. Asbury Park has a surprisingly impressive dining and drinking scene.

Sunset Landing - This lakeside cabin is known for its Hawaiian vibe and fresh juices — especially the carrot and ginger blend.

Toast - There’s every breakfast dish you can think of at Toast, an upscale diner. But we’re dreaming about the carrot cake pancakes loaded with coconut, raisins, honey, and brown sugar.

Cardinal Provisions - This proudly women-owned restaurant is known for its brunch. Feast on creative combos like chipotle-marinated Cajun steak and eggs with creamy horseradish sauce.

MacroBites - Counting your macros? This is your place. Cofounder David Lewis Jr. recommends the New Orleans strip steak marinated in a Bayou-style bourbon glaze — and he swears it’s healthy.

Sami’s Mediterranean Street Food - Try the beef shawarma with Lebanese pickles and tahini dressing — as good as anything you’d have in the Med.

Pucker - Cool off with Pucker’s signature fresh-squeezed lemonade. French fries with a range of dipping sauces, fried Oreos, and funnel cakes round out the decadent offerings.

Mogo Korean Fusion Tacos - As the name would suggest, this food stand is known for its cult-like tacos. (The Korean-style chicken wings are also delish.)

Betty’s Icebox - A sweet shop with a rotating menu of updated Boardwalk classics: CBD-infused ice pops, organic cotton candy, edible vegan cookie dough.

Taka - Japanese dishes and seasonally inspired small plates, plus Asian-fusion cocktails. Taka’s Firecracker Roll topped with sriracha and habanero is a fan favorite.

La Tapatia - This Downtown staple is the place for Mexican home cooking (be daring and try the beef-tongue tacos).

Ada’s Gojjo - A mix of Ethiopian and Dominican cuisines. Sounds like a culture clash, but it works.

Brando’s Citi Cucina - Line-caught fish, 35-day aged steak, small-batch pasta, and bufala mozzarella imported weekly from Italy: Everything at this brick-walled Italian restaurant is superlative.

Jimmy’s - An old-school Italian red sauce joint with serious gangster flair. Don’t miss the crab-stuffed flounder.

Pascal & Sabine - Or maybe French food is more your thing? Dishes like escargot in an herbed butter sauce will make you think you’ve jetted off to Paris for the evening.

Asbury Park Distilling Company - Asbury Park’s first distillery since Prohibition has a lounge with craft cocktails and tasting flights of the award-winning house-made spirits.

Bond Street - Pat Fasano is one of the people behind this dive bar with a no-holds-barred attitude (think sex toy bingo) and a NSFW tagline (GFY, or “Go F* Yourself”).

Watermark - This Boardwalk bar known for its killer ocean views will reopen on Memorial Day weekend with limited capacity (drinks only). By July, the small bites menu should be back up and running.

Asbury Park has such a deep history of entertainment — from the jazz era to 70s rock — that it used to be referred to as the Jewel of the Jersey Shore. “Now that jewel’s shining again,” says Kyle Brendle, the longtime house promoter at The Stone Pony, where Bruce Springsteen and Steven Van Zandt got their start. “People love strolling the boards and popping off to see live music at all the venues down the side streets.” Where to go:

The Stone Pony - This legendary rock club — which also hosts seasonal open-air shows on a massive Summer Stage — has been closed due to Covid. But it’s scheduled to reopen any day now.

Asbury Lanes - This iconic bowling alley and live music venue was recently renovated by the same folks behind the Asbury Hotel. Now, you can also expect comedy and trivia nights, sing-a-long movies, yoga and Pilates classes, even hipster knitting sessions.

Wonder Bar - Another live music spot, Wonder Bar is the home of “Tillie,” a clown-like mural that’s the unofficial mascot of Asbury Park. The bar’s other claim to fame: Yappy Hour, a daytime happy hour for dogs.

Long known for its music scene, Asbury Park has become an emerging art hub, thanks to trailblazers like Jenn Hampton, who started her career curating exhibits at Asbury Lanes and went on to found Parlor Gallery and the Wooden Walls Project. “I grew up in a place that was devoid of culture,” says Jenn. “So I wanted Asbury to be a place where people could feel pride about something in their own backyard. With 30% of our population under the poverty level, even if they’re not able to purchase art, at the very least they can say, ‘This is my favorite mural’ and bring people to see it.”

Wooden Walls Project - This public-art initiative encompasses a growing collection of murals painted by artists from around the world. You’ll find these monumental works of art emblazoned on walls around town and inside the historic Carousel Building.

Parlor Gallery - Jenn Hampton’s must-see gallery curates exhibitions of emerging and established New Jersey artists.

Transparent Clinch Gallery - At this interactive space in the Asbury Hotel, you can listen to local musicians while viewing rock photographer Danny Clinch’s images of Springsteen, Tupac, and more.

Ghost Harbor Creative - Opened during the pandemic, this collective has spaces where you can check out art, music, and spoken word performances.

Art 629 - Looking to walk away with a new skill? There are painting and drawing classes, in addition to exhibits of local artists.

Sure it’s a cliché, but there truly is something for everyone in Asbury Park.

Silverball Retro Arcade - Whatever you do, don’t miss this beachside arcade, which is home to over 600 games in rotation.

Hot Sand - Best Jersey Shore souvenir? Blow-your-own glass from Hot Sand.

Asbury Park Pedal Boats - Asbury’s colorful version of the Boston swan boats is aimed at kids but fun for grownups, too.

Cryolete - Overindulged on your Asbury weekend? Cure that hangover with cryotherapy and infrared sauna treatments.

Paranormal Books & Curiosities - This quirky shop’s owner, Kathy Kelly, is a local icon who leads spine-tingling ghost tours.

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