Delaware River Highlands: Where the best of New York and Pennsylvania meet

The first time Cooper Boone visited the Delaware River Highlands, he drove to Hawk’s Nest, which overlooks a vast expanse of valley. The beauty stopped him in his tracks. “I was literally speechless,” says Cooper, who was living and working in New York City at the time. “There was something that spoke to me. The vastness of the wilderness. The unspoiled nature of it all. I felt my complete spirit open up and I knew: This is it, this is home, this is me.”

Set between the Catskill Mountains and the Pocono Mountains, the Delaware River Highlands is becoming an increasingly attractive escape for New Yorkers in search of nature and sophistication. It’s made up of a loop of small towns dotting both sides of the Delaware River, including Honesdale, Milford, and Hawley (on the Pennsylvania side) and Port Jervis, Narrowsburg, and Barryville (on the New York side). They’re filled with all the WeekEnder hits: farm-to-table restaurants and style-forward boutique hotels, chic shops and cutting-edge cultural institutions, hiking trails and waterfalls.

After having twin daughters in 2014, Cooper and his husband decided to leave NYC behind and raise their children in Port Jervis. They bought a 1940s building and transformed it into Foundry42, a lifestyle boutique, coffee shop, and gathering space that’s been named one of the most innovative stores in the country. “This was a downtown that had been a bit dusty,” says Cooper. “Now it’s experiencing some sparkle, thanks to a beautiful community that’s very diverse and puts a big emphasis on ecotourism.”

About six miles away from Port Jervis is Milford (population 1,000), which is known for its literary and arts scene and has attracted transplants like Sean Strub, an activist, journalist, and author who fell so in love with his adopted town that he bought the historic Hotel Fauchère and eventually ran for mayor — and won. Sean says he has loved watching a somewhat culturally isolated rural community evolve into an artistically vibrant destination. “The appreciation for both our pristine natural environment and our historic built environment has grown dramatically,” he says.

In future episodes of The WeekEnder, we will certainly revisit some of these towns, which could each fill up an entire issue — but this weekend, join us as we go roaming around by the river.

-Laura Begley Bloom, New York's Senior WeekEnder Writer

In the Delaware River Highlands, there's a hotel or Airbnb rental for every personality. Here's our shortlist:

Charlie Chaplin, Andrew Carnegie, and Babe Ruth are just a few of the big names who have stayed at this landmark inn, which was originally founded in 1880 by Louis Fauchère, a master chef at Delmonico’s in New York City. These days, the Relais & Chateaux property is presided over by Sean Strub, the local mayor and a tastemaker extraordinaire.

This 1920’s Arts & Crafts inn has a serious culinary program and was founded 40 years ago by Jeanne and Grant Genzlinger, who were doing farm-to-table before it was a thing.

Sister to the Settlers Inn, Ledges is set in a former glass factory on the edge of a river gorge and a waterfall.

This 1860s farmhouse has an updated yet electric decor (think peeling walls, clawfoot tubs, and vintage record players).

An old hunters camp has been reimagined as a mod motel with a destination restaurant.

The intentionally quirky name sets the tone at this Adirondacks-meets-urban enclave in the woods.

You’ll also find plenty of home rental options in these parts, from Designer Cabina (an impeccably accessorized cottage in Forestburgh owned by Cooper Boone of Foundry42) to Clove Farm (Cooper Boone’s farmsite) to Wonder (sprawling loft rentals in the center of Honesdale).

The food and restaurant scene in the Delaware River Highlands is booming, thanks to innovative chefs and top-notch ingredients. “There’s tons of organic farming because the soil here is so fertile and vibrant,” says Barry Becker, co-founder of Narrowsburg’s River Gallery. “It’s like a wild Wegmans.

This coffee shop's breakfast sandwiches are something to behold, like the Hamlet with eggs, ham, Swiss, and powdered sugar on a buttery brioche. Shakespeare would approve.

A revolving menu of home-baked sweets (blackberry sage scones, ginger cupcakes topped with hibiscus cream cheese frosting) and savory items like asparagus and three-cheese galettes.

This family-owned bakery is only open on Saturdays and is worth the detour; other days, you can find its artisanal breads at local farmers’ markets.

Wood-fired sourdough pizza and other delicious bites, like a Thai-inspired Hangover Soup (which will cure whatever ails you) served at picnic tables next to the river.

A vegan restaurant that’s so good you’ll forget about meat.

This local favorite overlooking a restored 19th century water-powered grist mill serves a fusion of Vietnamese and locally inspired dishes like a grilled reuben.

Hole-in-the-wall Vietnamese spot with banh mi sandwiches, chicken spring rolls, and pork tacos.

“A tiny four-table restaurant that serves the best Indian food I’ve ever had,” says Foundry42’s Cooper Boone.

Funky roadside restaurant with authentic Mexican food and the occasional Mariachi band.

Old brick ruins from an 1800s pump house converted into a design-centric open-air restaurant that serves lunch and dinner. “They took containers to make the restaurant and bar,” says Barry Becker. “It’s casual, laidback, and hip — and it has the best tapas.”

Southern-inspired farm-to-table menu with standout buttermilk biscuits and fried chicken. Book an outdoor table overlooking the river.

An innovative and romantic new dining experience from the founders of Settlers Inn: farm-to-forest food served at private cabins constructed with materials sourced from old barns and stables.

A social club with simple farm-fresh food and music on the side.

Nature is front and center here, thanks to the Delaware River and its surrounding valley. Whatever you’re looking for, you’ll find it, from great hiking to waterfalls to river rafting.

long Route 97 is one of the most beautiful drives in New York State, known for winding roads and scenic stops that overlook the Delaware River Valley. The name comes from the birds of prey that nest in the area.

This family-owned operation offers relaxing tubing and river rafting down the Delaware River.

An easy 1.5-mile hiking loop with great views of the Delaware River.

Jim Jennings, a Honesdale native, is working on creating a new rail trail in the area for hiking and biking. In the meantime, he recommends checking out this 300-foot cliff. “There are uninterrupted views of rolling hills and towns,” says Jim. “It's the main attraction in the area.”

“From the Knob, one can see the Kittatinny Ridge in New Jersey and much of the lower Catskills in New York,” says Hotel Fauchère owner Sean Strub. “I find solace in knowing that people have enjoyed that view for hundreds of generations, from the indigenous Lenape Indians to contemporary residents.”

“The Milford fluviarchy (a network of waterfalls) is one of the most important on the entire continent,” says Sean. “Raymondskill Falls, the tallest in Pennsylvania, is three miles from the Hotel Fauchère.”

Right around the corner from the Settlers Inn is one of co-founder Jeanne Genzlinger’s favorite places: an easy hiking path that takes you along the Delaware and Hudson Canal. “It’s a wonderful walk that doesn’t take up your whole day,” she says.

You name it, you’ll find a festival for it in these parts. Milford alone hosts the annual Opera! Pike! Park! festival every August, the Milford Readers & Writers Festival in September, and the Black Bear Film Festival in October — just to name a few. At other times of the year, here’s where you can get your arts and culture fix.

Neoclassical mansion that appeals to history buffs and fans of President Abraham Lincoln “The collection of ‘Lincolnalia’ includes the famous blood-stained Lincoln flag that cushioned the President’s head moments after he was assassinated,” says Sean Strub.

“It has gorgeous gardens, is architecturally significant, and tells the story of the conservation movement in America,” says Sean.

This newly opened outdoor music venue was designed by Peter Q. Bohlin, the architect behind the Apple stores. “It’s a sharp little amphitheater nestled in the woods,” says Jeanne Genzlinger. “What's really fascinating about coming out of this pandemic is the investment that has happened in this little town of 1200 people this year.”

“They have a wonderful ashram, a wellness center for massage, and the best yoga in the world,” says Jeanne. “It’s a little gem that a lot of people don’t know about.”

This area has become ground zero for trendsetting boutiques opened by transplanted tastemakers. “A lot of people have left other environments to come here and to make a livelihood, and what comes with that is a new kind of creative way of thinking about how business is done,” says Cooper Boone.

This one-stop lifestyle store helped transform Port Jervis into a style hub, showcasing everything from furniture made from reclaimed wood to works by local artists. The in-house cafe specializes in “coffee and carbs,” says founder Cooper Boone.

Two former fashion execs opened this trailblazing antiques store that helped put Narrowsburg on the map.

This ivy-covered showroom and shop is filled with antiques and oddities (taxidermy, salvaged wooden doors).

Boutique from a former design director of Vogue stocked with items inspired by her global travels, from clothing to kitchen supplies.

This charming Craftsman-style gift shop celebrates nature with plant-inspired jewelry, herb-infused candles, and more.

A cute culinary shop with (guess what) top-notch olive oils.

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