A perfect weekend in Philly

Our Founding Fathers were onto something when they chose Philadelphia as the birthplace for this nation in 1776. Fast forward a few centuries later, and the historic city is undergoing a renaissance that’s ushering in a new set of trailblazers in the world of food, art, architecture, music, and design. These pioneering creatives are looking to the future while ensuring the city’s history remains alive and well.

“There’s a love story with Philadelphia. Think Rocky. The Declaration of Independence. People come here with dreams — it’s a place of triumph,” says Philly-born chef Kurt Evans, who is shaking up the local dining scene using food as a way to talk about important world issues, from systemic racism to mass incarceration.

Designer Shannon Maldonado shares the same passion for her hometown. Named Philly’s “arbiter of cool” by Dwell magazine, Shannon is the owner and founder of Yowie, a shop-slash-design studio that showcases up-and-coming local artists and makers. The modern space is located in the leafy Queen Village neighborhood next to businesses like a frame store and a fabric shop that have been there forever. “It’s a cool mix of old and new,” she says. “One of the beautiful things about Philly is that a lot changes and a lot doesn’t — it’s a big city that operates like a small town.”

Another local talent aiming to revolutionize the city through the visual arts? Artist and sculptor Miguel Horn, who is known for his large-scale installations — including a giant translucent replica of his father’s head floating in the Delaware River. What he loves about Philadelphia: “It has one of the biggest collections of public art in the world — and it’s such an easy place to navigate — it’s so walkable and bikeable.”

In this issue of the WeekEnder, we introduce you to this trio of super plugged-in locals and get them to open their little black books. From the city’s best new bites to a surprisingly cool art installation hidden in a lush park, these are the insider spots you want to know about. Philly, here we come.

-Laura Begley Bloom, New York's Senior WeekEnder Writer

Chef Kurt Evans shares his tips

According to chef Kurt Evans, there’s so much more to Philadelphia than cheesesteak. “This is a big melting pot,” says Kurt. “We’ve got everything here — Thai, Malaysian, Italian, Israeli, Mediterranean — and the Black heritage Southern soul food cooking runs very deep.” Kurt’s own culinary contributions are adding another layer of interest (and deliciousness) to that melting pot. He hosts a series of hot-ticket End Mass Incarceration dinners that bring attention to the issue of prison reform with speakers and conversation, plus a multi-course menu that includes creative bites like a correctional cake made from commissary staples (M&M’s, Oreo cream filling). Meanwhile, Kurt’s new North Philly restaurant, Down North Pizza, is also dedicated to the same cause, exclusively employing formerly incarcerated men and women, helping them start a new life, and serving Detroit-style pies topped with inventive ingredients like BBQ beef bacon, caramelized pineapples, and jalapeños. “For me, food is a big equalizer that brings people together,” says Kurt. “I want to be able to use food as a vehicle to talk about systemic issues that affect the Black community and help impact policy change and social structures.”

But a friendly warning: Kurt’s pop-up dinners sell out fast, as do his pizzas. Want to know where else to eat in Philly? Here is Kurt’s go-to list:

Chef Cristina Martínez’s Mexican restaurant South Philly Barbacoa was named one of the best new restaurants in America by Bon Appetit, helps promote the rights of undocumented citizens, and has been featured on Netflix’s Chef’s Table. “I would wait in line forever for the barbacoa tacos,” says Kurt.

“This Black-owned restaurant is run by a woman chef and has amazing burgers,” says Kurt. His favorite? The turkey burger topped with bacon, fried onions, chipotle mayo, and pepper jack cheese.

Meals are served in a pizza box at this James Beard-nominated Indonesian restaurant. “On the box, it says ‘Not Pizza,’” says Kurt. “Inside is a beautiful spread: crab, chicken skewers, rice.”

Kurt’s advice for snagging a bite at this popular barbecue spot that sells out daily: “Pre-order online and get there no later than 11:30.” Kurt’s favorite menu items: brisket, beef ribs, and macaroni and cheese.

This Halal restaurant is popular with the city’s big Islamic population. “They make good lamb chops over rice, and I love the sweet potato cheesecake.”

“South Jazz Kitchen is owned by the legendary nightlife entrepreneurs Bynum Brothers, who run a few restaurants in Philly,” says Kurt. “They offer Southern American dishes [like scallop and crawfish etouffée] and jazz music.”

“Chef Adam Diltz celebrates Pennsylvania’s heritage of foodways — hunting and fishing — and makes traditional dishes like rabbit and squirrel,” says Kurt.

Chef Chutatip “Nok” Suntaranon’s modern-Thai restaurant has been getting a ton of buzz among food critics: It was named best restaurant in America by Esquire. Kurt’s favorite dish: the crab-fried rice.

Look for fine dining with eight-course seasonally inspired tasting menus from a Black husband-wife team at one of the top restaurants in the city. “They do everything right,” says Kurt.

Designer Shannon Maldonado shares her tips

Philly has a strong DIY spirit and is a hotbed for forward-thinking creative types when it comes to design. One of its superstars is Shannon Maldonado, whose shop Yowie — in the trendy Queen Village neighborhood — sells an eclectic mix of clothing, ceramics, design books, and artisanal food items in cool packaging. But Yowie is more than a retail space, it’s a creative incubator. “I wanted to create an emotional brand that supports and amplifies artists,” says Shannon.

The South Philly native loves how her city continues to evolve. “When I was a kid, it didn’t feel that cool to be into art or fashion. Now, every third customer of mine is an entrepreneur with a T-shirt line or a side hustle doing ceramics. It’s a completely different world where creativity is the sexiest job,” says Shannon.

Here, Shannon shares her list of other Philly spots on the design vanguard:

Shannon’s next door neighbor in Queen Village is a kindred spirit: “The shop has a bohemian vibe with an apothecary, home products, and vintage clothing.”

This former school, which spans a city block, has spaces where you can see makers at work — from furniture designers to jewelers to tattoo artists — as well as a rooftop bar and restaurant. “It’s a creative community that’s a hub for interactive and inclusive programming,” says Shannon.

This formerly abandoned waterfront pier is now home to shipping containers-turned-artist spaces, food carts, bars, music, and programming for kids. “It’s got great light and fantastic water views.

This gem of an arts center is one of the oldest art nonprofits in the country. “They sometimes have drop-in classes where you can learn to make ceramics or how to draw,” she says.

Artist Miguel Horn shares his tips

“Unlike in other big art-world cities, [people] in Philadelphia are a lot more pure in their artistic vision — they’re doing art for art’s sake and I value that,” says Miguel Horn. Another thing this Philly native values? The city’s landmark Percent for Art Program, which launched in 1959 and requires any construction project to devote 1% of its budget to commissioning site-specific public art. “Because of that, we have a ton of artwork and public spaces throughout downtown and in the parks surrounding the city,” he says.

From major institutions to under-the-radar finds, these are Miguel’s favorite places:

Miguel’s must-see art list runs deep and this museum’s Frank Gehry-designed galleries tops the list. “The institution has largely stayed unchanged for decades, so these modern spaces will really transform the viewing experience.”

“I’m obviously biased, but I love this museum — its Victorian architecture is very unique to Philadelphia,” says Miguel, who studied at PAFA’s art school, the first and oldest in the U.S. His not-to-be-missed spot: the Works on Paper Gallery in the historic building. “It’s an intimate, quiet space that has its own rotating exhibitions of prints, drawings, and photography.”

“If you’re looking for the super weird and interesting in Philly, this scholarly collection of medical abnormalities is it.” says Miguel. “They have skeletons of the world’s tallest man and the shortest woman next to each other, the bodies of twins that were conjoined, and other creepy things.”

This Latinx arts and culture organization is known for its avant-garde programming and rotating exhibitions.

“Philly’s park system has some beautiful gems like Martin Puryear’s Pavilion in the Trees, a raised wooden structure in West Fairmount Park,” says Miguel. “It’s a serene place to go for a walk.”

Nestled at the far end of the Orange Trail at Wissahickon Valley Park is a stone statue of a Native American chief. “It’s a gorgeous pilgrimage to get there and worth it,” says Miguel.

Here are our insiders’ top picks of places to stay

Miguel is a big fan of the views at The Logan Hotel — especially from the rooftop bar. “You can see all the way from City Hall to the Art Museum,” he says. Keep an eye out for Miguel’s 7 ½ foot iron man sculpture that greets guests in the lobby.

Set at the top of the Comcast Tower, the Four Seasons is the highest hotel in the city. “Don’t miss the JG SkyHigh Lounge — the elevator ride up is worth it alone,” says Miguel.

Shannon Maldonado helped design this boutique hotel and event space. “If you’re able to round up a group of friends, The Deacon is an awesome place to stay,” says Shannon. “It’s a dream loft space with eight bedrooms and a huge chef’s kitchen.”

Miguel recommends renting an Airbnb in a neighborhood like Kensington, Fishtown, or Northern Liberties. “You can get a great Airbnb in Philly for very little money,” he says. We love this colorful, artsy Airbnb in Fishtown run by a Superhost.