Winter weekend in the Catskills: Skiing, cozy cabins, and farm-fresh food

There’s something about the Catskills that just keeps pulling us back: the farm-to-table food, the artisans and makers, and, of course, those stunning mountains. Two years ago, The WeekEnder took you on a winter escape to Windham, New York, where we introduced you to the highly Instagrammable Eastwind Hotel & Bar, known for its Scandinavian-chic cabins in the woods. When we heard that Eastwind was opening a new location in Ulster County’s Oliverea Valley, we knew it was time to pay another visit.

But first, a geography lesson. Ulster County encompasses a huge swath of the Catskills and some WeekEnder favorites: Kingston, New Paltz, and Saugerties. On this weekend’s getaway we’re exploring a small corner of northwestern Ulster County that includes Belleayre Mountain Ski Center and towns like Phoenicia, Pine Hill, and Big Indian. While you’re here, you’ll also want to check out neighboring areas like West Kill, Spruceton Valley, and Prattsville.

“This part of the Catskills has something to do and a different atmosphere in every season. I love winter with the cold and crispness and the snow on the ground and the outdoor fires: It’s like a little wonderland,” says Bjorn Boyer, who cofounded Eastwind Oliverea Valley with his wife—design director Julija Stoliarova—and food and beverage director Daniel Cipriani. When designing this property, which is set in a woodsy enclave along the Esopus River, they wanted to make sure guests were enveloped in the natural beauty, even indoors. So every space—from the lobby to the cabins, even the sauna—has massive glass windows.

Besides chic hotels, there are tons of cute cottages to rent in this area, including a cozy log cabin in Spruceton Valley owned by novelist Jo Piazza and her husband, Nick. They love giving visitors a taste of what it’s like to be a local, complete with a wood-burning stove and an old-school turntable. “We bought a home up here so that our children could experience nature right outside of their door,” says Jo. “There are true wilderness adventures, from hiking paths where you won’t encounter another soul to diving into rollicking tributaries of the West Kill (we do it in all seasons). Time seems to slow down in this part of the mountains.”

It’s no secret that the Catskills has also attracted a thriving community of artists and makers. Sherwood Phifer is one of the world’s most respected luthiers, who has built guitars for music legends like George Benson and Gene Simmons and makes custom instruments by-appointment-only for mere mortals, too. He grew up coming to Phoenicia with his family, who has had a house in the town since 1956; 14 years ago he decided to leave New York City and move here full-time. “The air is cleaner, you’re surrounded by trees. Energy-wise, it’s the best place to be for your mental and physical health,” he says. “It gives me a lot of joy, and joy is what drives all art.”

A place where time slows down that is full of joy? We’ll see you in the mountains.

-Laura Begley Bloom, New York's Senior WeekEnder Writer

Hygge—the cozy Scandinavian concept—was the inspiration behind Eastwind Oliverea Valley, which mixes modern architecture and the warmth of home. There are freestanding Lushna cabins and suites scattered throughout the landscape, as well as more traditional hotel rooms with a serious style factor. Creative director Julija Stoliarova decorated the property with one-of-a-kind finds (antique books, vintage Turkish rugs, woven baskets). Experiences are a big part of the appeal, from foraging hikes to candle-making workshops, and the plugged-in staff loves to offer up insider tips on other cool things to do nearby. When it comes to food and drinks, Eastwind fires on all cylinders, from the breakfast baskets delivered to your room to s’mores kits for roasting by the fire to the forage-to-fork Dandelion restaurant (more on that in a few).

For Instagrammers: Urban Cowboy Lodge in Big Indian - This outpost of a hipster hospitality brand that started in Brooklyn has eclectic decor, clawfoot soaking tubs, a bonfire, and gorgeous mountain views.

For sweethearts: Foxfire Mountain House in Mount Tremper - The couple behind this gorgeous inn is so renowned for their design sensibility that they published a decorating book called Foxfire Living. In the summer, the inn is usually booked out for weddings, but in the winter, lucky guests can snag Stay & Dine retreats.

For living like a local: Secret Valley Cabin in West Kill - Novelist Jo Piazza’s rental is the log cabin of your dreams.

For an affordable sleep: Spruceton Inn in West Kill - “My favorite local hotel is this bed and bar with nine well-appointed rooms on a gorgeous plot of land along the creek,” says Jo. “It’s owned by Steven Weinberg, an artist and children’s book author, and his wife, writer Casey Scieszka.”

For groups: The Graham & Co. in Phoenicia - Want to plan a wedding, family reunion, or getaway with a group of friends? This property with cottages to rent is your stylish retreat.

For spa junkies: Emerson Resort & Spa in Mount Tremper - The biggest hotel game in the area has a sprawling spa, outdoor hot tub, and everything you need to pamper yourself.

For yoga buffs: Menla Retreat & Spa in Phoenicia - A nature resort and modern retreat center with a healing spa.

The appeal of the restaurants here? An unexpected mix of high-low. “The best spots are family-run, simpler places, but with a really high quality to them,” says Bjorn Boyer.

Phoenicia Diner in Phoenicia - This quintessential diner is known for its elevated farm-to-table dishes and an epic wait—that’s worth it. Most people come for breakfast, but you can also get lunch or an early dinner. Pro-tip: No space inside? Sit at the picnic tables under the heat lamps.

Maeve’s Place in Pine Hill - Great pastries (think espresso and chocolate scones) and a feel-good mission, providing opportunities for people with intellectual or developmental disabilities.

Brio’s Pizzeria & Restaurant in Phoenicia - This low-key pizza joint is connected to a Mexican restaurant (Sportsman’s Alamo Cantina), in case burritos are more your thing. The pies have a following for their creative flavors like chicken and broccoli in an alfredo sauce on a sesame-seed crust. “In my opinion, there’s only one place to go in Phoenicia,” says Sherwood Phifer.

The Pines in Mount Tremper - “It’s small and dark and has really good company with locals and outsiders alike,” says Bjorn, who loves the Brussels sprouts with sweet and spicy sticky sauce.

Tito Banditos in Pine Hill - A colorful taqueria with a lively bar scene and killer fish tacos.

Peekamoose Restaurant & Tap Room in Big Indian - The closest you’ll come to fine dining in these parts has an ever-changing seasonal menu featuring local purveyors, plus a family-friendly vibe with a fire pit for roasting s’mores and a play zone for kids.

Foxfire Bar Room in Mount Tremper - Besides being a design spot, Foxfire Mountain House is also a destination restaurant, offering prix-fixe farm-to-table menus. Best seat in the house: on the veranda.

Dandelion Restaurant & Bar in Oliverea Valley - The lobby of the Eastwind Oliverea Valley doubles as a restaurant with international comfort dishes like lohikeitto, a Finnish-style stew featuring steelhead trout—perfect for a cold winter evening. “We have taken great care in selecting suppliers that honor conscious farming practices,” says Daniel Cipriani.

Woodstock Brewing in Phoenicia - A great place to grab a beer and unique bites like a roasted cauliflower banh mi sandwich or tamarind habanero pork tacos.

West Kill Brewing in West Kill - A local brewery known for top-notch ales, IPAs, and sours—all brewed right on the mountain. “On most weekend days, there’s also a rotating cast of food trucks that serve everything from empanadas to lobster rolls,” says Jo Piazza.

The top line: The family-friendly Belleayre Mountain Ski Center has something for everyone: steeps, bumps, glades, groomers, terrain parks, and a whole lot of fun.

On the slopes: Belleayre is small but mighty, with a 1,404-foot vertical drop, 63 trails, and two terrain parks spread across 175 skiable acres. Our favorite lift: the enclosed Catskill Thunder Gondola—perfect for protecting you from the elements.

Best runs: If you’re looking for great cruising, Roaring Brook is the trail to check out, thanks to its gentle slope down the mountain. Dot Nebel is an intermediate run that welcomes big wide open turns. Expert skiers flock to the glades and the expert bump runs off the top of the mountain.

Lift tickets: The further out you purchase your tickets, the cheaper they will be—with midweek starting at just $54. If you arrive at the mountain and the conditions are not to your liking, you can get a credit to use toward another ticket, lesson, or rental within one year of the issue date.

On-piste dining: There are plenty of food options, including Kettle Cove (don’t miss the signature chili), Maple Smoke BBQ (delicious dry rub beef brisket), and So Cheesy (nothing but grilled cheese). And talk about a reward for making it to the summit: Just Fries has views for days and hand-cut fries topped with poutine, garlic parm, and more.

Not up for the slopes? Here are some other ways to embrace the winter season.

Giant Ledge in Big Indian - “We have the luxury of having the Giant Ledge—one of the best-known hiking trails in the Catskills—just five minutes from Eastwind Oliverea Valley,” says Bjorn Boyer. “After an hour and a half you reach a cliff with an incredible view.”

McKinley Hollow Trail in Shandaken - A trail through uninterrupted virgin forest in the Big Indian Wilderness Area. “It’s one of the trails you have to do—very scenic,” says Bjorn.

The Tanbark Loop Trailhead in Phoenicia - Steep and intense, but worth it for the great views overlooking Phoenicia.

Bearpen Mountain Sports in Prattsville - “A 500-acre estate that a gentleman out of New York started,” says Bjorn. “It’s got snow tubing, cross-country skiing, fat-tire mountain bikes, and ice skating. It’s a winter wonderland.”

This is the land of artisanal craftsmanship. Feast your eyes on these design-forward shops.

Blue Barn Marketplace in Shandaken - “It has a little bit of everything, from vintage clothing to furniture,” says Julija Stoliarova. “I was lucky enough to score 20 fly-fishing magazines from the 1970s, which are now displayed in our reception at Eastwind Oliverea Valley.”

Birch Creek Mercantile in Pine Hill - This renovated pharmacy with hip handmade goods also has a small bar spotlighting local breweries, cideries, wineries, and distilleries.

Tremper Hill Farms in Mount Tremper - This charming farm stand is a great stop for picnic supplies or dinner fixings on your way out of town. Think local produce, cheese, meats, and pies.

Van Dusen’s General Store in Lexington - “A major gathering spot,” says Jo Piazza. “Will, the owner, stocks it with everything you would need during a weekend and has plenty of craft beer on tap.”

Steven Weinberg in West Kill - "Spruceton Inn's co-owner paints gorgeous Catskills landscapes, and you should not leave the area without purchasing an original or a print as a souvenir,” says Jo. "You can buy his prints in the bar at the Spruceton Inn, in the shop at West Kill Brewing, or online."