Recharge in the scenic surrounds of Litchfield, Connecticut
Ask any local what they love about Litchfield County, a hilly area tucked into the northwest corner of Connecticut, and a common theme starts to emerge. “It’s a place to relax — a sanctuary where you’re surrounded by gorgeous countryside,” says Nancy Novogrod, the former editor in chief of Travel + Leisure who now runs a travel planning consultancy called Culturati Travel Design and has been spending weekends in this area for years. “People come here for a sense of peace and calm,” says the author Dani Shapiro, who decamped from Brooklyn almost two decades ago and never looked back.
That is also the appeal for Carlos Perez, a chef who was born and raised in Litchfield, before cutting his teeth at some of Manhattan’s top restaurants. Carlos recently returned to his roots to help transform Litchfield's @ The Corner from a humble burger joint into a trailblazing farm-to-table restaurant. What drew him back? “I missed seeing all the trees and the nature, just the quiet and serenity,” he says.
But don’t think of Litchfield County as a sleepy region. Quite the contrary. You’ll find a buzzing food scene, serious culture, style in spades (this is the antiques capital of Connecticut, after all), an adventurous spirit, and some of the best leaf-peeping on the planet. “It’s a beautiful place if you’re active,” says Anthony Champalimaud, a designer who lives in Litchfield and owns Troutbeck, a country inn just over the border in New York’s Dutchess County. “There’s so much to occupy you.”
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So join us as we head to the hills for our next weekend escape.
Where to stay
Hospitality is taken very seriously in Litchfield County, thanks to a clutch of four heavy-hitting hotels with a strong design sensibility. Here’s our shortlist (plus one affordable option).
For Instagrammers: Winvian Farm in Morris
This luxe hotel goes all out with 18 themed guest cottages: There’s a full-size Sikorsky helicopter inside one of them, plus a treehouse suspended 35 feet in the air.
For foodies: Mayflower Inn & Spa in Washington
Auberge Resorts has transformed this historic inn into a destination retreat with a renovation by hot interior designer Celerie Kemble, an ambitious wellness center, and a restaurant currently run by James Beard Award-winning chef-in-residence April Bloomfield.
For sweethearts: Troutbeck in Armenia, N.Y.
A lavish estate from the 1700s that’s worth the trip right over the border to New York. The literary roots run deep (Emerson, Thoreau, and Hemingway have all been guests) and the romance quotient is high.
For art lovers: White Hart Inn in Salisbury
“My favorite place,” says Dani Shapiro. “It’s absolutely sophisticated but low key, with great food and beautiful art, including pieces by Jasper Johns and Frank Stella.”
For a cheap sleep: The Litchfield Inn in Litchfield
Looking for an affordable stay? This simple Colonial-style property isn’t going to win any design awards, but it has several fun themed rooms including “Cabin” and “Bohemian.”
Where to eat and drink
Farm-to-table is the name of the game in Litchfield County, where chefs have access to the freshest ingredients, from produce to meats. Get ready to eat very well.
Best breakfasts
Arethusa a mano in Bantam - One of the major players in the local food scene is Arethusa Farm, which transformed Bantam into “the Brooklyn of Litchfield County,” says Dani Shapiro. Start your day at Arethusa’s casual cafe, which serves up seasonal treats (pumpkin donuts, anyone?).
Toast & Co in Litchfield - “Toast” is in the name, so it’s no surprise that the signature toasts — topped with everything from avocado to PB & banana — are otherworldly.
Wilson’s by High Watch in Kent - Expect breakfast treats like smoked salmon with cucumber dill cream cheese on 12-grain toast. “Wonderful and stylish and brand-new,” says Nancy Novogrod.
Coffee and a very delicious donut
Bantam Bread Co. in Bantam - “From scratch, by hand, all-natural” is the motto at this family-run bakery that made its name with artisanal breads and rustic pastries.
The BakeHouse in Litchfield - This bakery set on the lower level of the 1812 Litchfield Jail is beloved for its sourdough bread and buttery croissants.
Picnics to go
The Warren General Store in Warren - This classic country store is worth the visit for its curried chicken salad alone, but it also has excellent pizza (thin or cauliflower crust).
The Pantry in Washington Depot - Think gourmet comfort food to go, from kale caesar salad to panko breaded chicken cutlets topped with spicy locally sourced honey.
New Morning Market in Woodbury - Healthy bites to take on a hike, plus coffee, juices and smoothies.
Lunchtime
White Horse Country Pub in New Preston - It’s all about the waterfall views at this downhome restaurant known for its upscale pub grub (black truffle meatloaf, Wagyu Kobe burger).
West Shore Seafood in Morris - In the mood for lobster rolls and New England clam chowder? Grab one of the picnic tables at this Cape Cod-style seafood shack.
Frank Food Company in Kent - Elevated home cooking with a menu that changes depending on what inspires the chef-owner Frank McClelland (right now, he’s vibing on a recent trip to the Maine coast).
Date night
Community Table in Washington - “Refined farm to table,” says Nancy. “It’s a big deal.” A tip: Insiders just call it “CT.”
@ The Corner in Litchfield - Carlos Perez’s menu marries his background as a pastry chef with a modern American aesthetic. One of the stand-outs: Hawaiian Truffle Brussels Sprouts with pineapple, bacon lardons, local honey, black garlic, truffle parmesan, and a maraschino cherry glaze.
Materia Ristorante in Litchfield - “It doesn’t look like much on the inside, but this is a serious Italian restaurant,” says Nancy.
Arethusa al tavolo in Bantam - It doesn’t get any fresher than this upscale dinner spot from Arethusa Farm, which specializes in seed- and dairy-to-table dining.
The Owl in New Preston - “My buddy John runs this small hilltop restaurant with great Neapolitan-style pizzas and a huge wine selection,” says Carlos. “It’s peaceful and serene.”
Where to drink
Litchfield Distillery in Litchfield - Tours and tastings of 16 distinctive spirits, plus a series of ready-to-drink cocktail cans, including the new margarita-inspired Batcherita.
Hopkins Vineyard in New Preston - Stop by to try a flight of wines at this heritage farm overlooking Lake Waramaug.
Kent Falls Brewing in Kent - A 50-acre working farm-slash-brewery. “They’re local brewers and make great beers that we serve at Troutbeck,” says Anthony Champalimaud.
What to do
Farmers markets and farmstands
Litchfield County is ground zero for a rich farming community. “We’re lucky to have as many farms as we do restaurants,” says Carlos Perez. Put these places on your radar.
Litchfield Farmers Market in Litchfield - All the fresh produce you can imagine, plus food tastings from a chef-in-residence, a book exchange, and live music.
Washington Farmers Market in Washington - It’s strictly fresh and local (from meat and veggies to soap and flowers) at this Saturday community market.
Angevine Farm in Warren - An 1868 farm where you can pick your own pumpkins right from the patch.
Kent Barns in Kent - Restored historic barns that are home to shops, galleries, and restaurants — but the big draw is the Second Saturday event, with a farmstand, flower market, book readings, and more.
Waldingfield Farm in Washington - “It’s a fantastic organic farm with a barn on the property where there’s yoga several times a week,” says Dani Shapiro. “What could be lovelier than practicing yoga in an open-air barn, looking over the fields and horses and meadows. And their produce is astonishing.”
Thorncrest Farm & Milk House Chocolates in Goshen - “Among the very best chocolate I’ve ever had in my life,” says Dani. “You see the cows right there that make the milk that the chocolate comes from.”
Best hikes
There’s nothing like the Appalachian Trail, which runs through this area, but that’s just the start of the endless hiking you can do in the Litchfield Hills. Here’s where the locals go.
White Memorial Conservation Center in Litchfield - “This is my go-to, with lakes and ponds, hiking and biking trails, and boardwalks running through the marshes,” says Anthony Champalimaud.
Topsmead State Forest in Litchfield - “There are acres of butterfly gardens and old apple orchards,” says Carlos, who has featured the location heavily on his Instagram.
Steep Rock Preserve in Washington - “A favorite of everybody who lives there with lots of different trails to choose from,” says Dani.
Hidden Valley Preserve in Washington - You’ll find 17 miles of trails with different terrains and the picture-worthy Henry David Thoreau 120-foot suspension bridge.
Macedonia Brook State Park in Kent - When Nancy Novogrod is looking for a great hike, she heads to this park, which is home to the Blue Trail, with outstanding views of the Catskills and Taconic mountains.
Macricostas Preserve in New Preston - Explore the unspoiled meadows, farmland, and wetlands or take the Pinnacle trail, which pays off with amazing views over Lake Waramaug.
Adventures
Litchfield County is truly a year-round destination, with something for every season — including skiing in the winter at Mohawk Mountain — but for fall travelers, consider this your hit list.
Take a drive - This area is home to many scenic fall drives, including loops on Route 7, an epic foliage trail. Or simply get lost, like Dani Shapiro loves to do. “It’s lovely to just drive around the winding roads — it’s so low stress,” she says.
Rent a bike - Pick up e-bikes from Covered Bridge Electric Bike and check out West Cornwall’s famous covered bridge, rolling hills, and farmland. Or rent a set of wheels from Bicycle Tour Company in Kent and explore Litchfield County’s backroads.
Get out on the river - West Cornwall’s Clarke Outdoors will help you canoe, kayak, and raft the Housatonic.
Race a car - “Lime Rock Park in Lakeville is an extraordinarily beautiful racetrack that follows the course of the landscape,” says Anthony.
Ride a horse - Slow down and gallop through nature with trail rides and lessons at Lee’s Riding Stables in Litchfield.
Go birdwatching - “Litchfield’s Ripley Waterfowl Conservancy is a former private residence that feels like parkland — an extraordinary destination for bird lovers,” says Anthony.
Culture
Litchfield County has a deep cultural heritage, and a fun fact: “It’s home to the first American law school – both Hamilton and Burr were educated as lawyers here,” says Anthony. Here are a few spots to check out.
Litchfield Historical Society in Litchfield - Home to Litchfield Law School (the first law school in the nation), the Litchfield History Museum, and more.
Hollister House Garden in Washington - Love gardens? You won’t want to miss the tours and classes at this historic house with a classic English garden.
Glebe House Museum & The Gertrude Jekyll Garden in Woodbury - The site of the first Episcopal Church in the United States and home to a stunning formal garden that was recently restored.
Washington Art Association in Washington Depot - A gallery that showcases the work of emerging and established artists and also has classes in painting, photography, ceramics, and more.
Shopping
Litchfield County’s shopping scene is epic — especially New Preston, which has become a hub for tastemakers. “New Preston is unmatched in terms of the concentration of stylish shops that are there,” says Nancy Novogrod. We got this master shopper to open her little back book and share her top sources all over the county.
Plain Goods in New Preston - “It’s the best place of all with an enormously well-curated selection of clothing and home accessories,” says Nancy. “It’s a destination.”
Privet House in New Preston - “You never know what you’re going to find here, from bath accessories to vintage books,” says Nancy.
Pergola in New Preston - “A garden shop with a strong point of view that carries plants as well as books, Japanese ceramics, and gifts,” says Nancy.
Hays Worthington in Washington - “An excellent collection of vintage jewelry accumulated over many years” says Nancy.
R. Derwins Clothiers in Litchfield - “High quality preppy men’s and women’s clothing,” says Nancy.
RT Facts in New Preston - “A design resource for mostly 20th century antiques and the owner, Greg Randall, makes things, too, like gorgeous cabinets” says Nancy.