The Wildwoods offer a laid-back beach getaway

In the very first issue of The WeekEnder, we introduced you to Cape May, a sophisticated beach town with farm-to-table restaurants and America’s oldest seaside hotel. Now, a year later, we’re back in Cape May County and heading 15 minutes north along the Jersey Shore to the Wildwoods, a barrier island that gets its name from the three main towns: Wildwood, North Wildwood, and Wildwood Crest.

This five-mile-long island couldn’t be more different from Cape May. It’s bold, it’s brash, it’s down to earth — and that’s just what makes it so appealing. “What I like about the Wildwoods is that it’s not for everybody but it is for anybody,” says Jack Morey, whose dad built a boardwalk amusement park, Morey’s Piers, here in 1969. In other words, this is a pretension-free zone, an affordable and welcoming place that has something for anyone who wants to visit, including insatiably wide beaches, a cacophony of rides, an unbelievable collection of mid-century modern architecture, and lots of places to stay (a big selling point at a time when every other seaside destination on the East Coast seems to be booked).

Here’s the other thing about the Wildwoods. It’s a place where people live out their dreams, whether they’re coming on vacation for the weekend or growing up at an amusement park like Jack Morey or ditching their job and moving here. That was the case for Bill Bumbernick, a formerly overworked tech CEO whose wife’s family has owned a summer house in North Wildwood since 1917. “Every Sunday, before I went back to work in Philadelphia, I went to a dockside cafe for breakfast,” says Bill. “I used to say, ‘Someday, I’m going to own this and make our future here.” And Bill did just that. After selling his company, he bought the waterfront shack and transformed it into a pair of restaurants: The Surfing Pig, a barbeque-and-seafood spot that’s straight out of Key West, and the more upscale Swine Bar. “This place speaks to people and once you get connected to it, it’s hard to disconnect,” says Bill.

The Wildwoods also spoke to Michelle Rutkowski, who owns a trio of family-fun shops on the boardwalk. “The first time I stepped onto the Wildwoods' boardwalk there was a live elephant,” she says. “It’s always been all about summer magic, and my mission is to help people love it as much as I do.” Let’s look at everything there is to love about the Wildwoods.

When the Garden State Parkway was completed in 1957, it helped usher in a new era of travel, making it easier for road trippers to escape to beach areas like the Wildwoods. Simultaneously, enterprising entrepreneurs started building atomic-era hotels, and a Jersey Shore beach destination was born. Today, the Wildwoods still has the greatest concentration of mid-century modern architecture in the nation. Here’s our hotel hit list.

A pair of 1960s motels have been transformed into boutique apartments with plenty of ‘gram-worthy moments, including cool blue bikes that are free for guests to use.

Families are drawn to this low-key motel for its two pools and its ideal setting, just a block off the boardwalk.

Dazzling beachfront views helped make this one of the “Best Hotels for Families in the U.S.” in Tripadvisor’s 2020 Travelers' Choice Awards.

Swaying faux palm trees set the tone at this retro hotel from the Morey’s Piers group, which has its own mini-golf course, complete with 27 holes.

Design buffs will recognize the swooping neon sign that has helped this iconic property become both a state and national historic landmark. Fun fact: This is the first motel ever listed with Historic Hotels of America.

This nautical-chic hotel set right across from the beach keeps with the theme: Vintage-style maps and colorful ship flags cover the walls. All the rooms have a view of the ocean.

From a lobster bacon bagel in the morning to Jersey scallops with Mexican street corn at night, the Icona is a very delicious place to stay. (And the rooms, done up in cool ocean tons, are the icing on the cake.)

One of the largest hotels in the Wildwoods is known for its low prices. It’s also home to a popular breakfast spot: the Pancake House (the name says it all).

“This isn’t your father’s Wildwood anymore,” says John Dorio, who bought the Daytona Inn & Suites 20 years ago and gave it an overhaul. “The days of the dollar drafts at the club are over. Today, we have a whole host of entrepreneurs who are opening great new restaurants for families, romantics, and foodies.”

Doo Wop Diner on the Boardwalk - An old-school boardwalk spot with hearty breakfast eats, from Oreo pancakes to a kitchen-sink omelet, and a Betty Boop vibe.

Marvis Diner in Wildwood - It’s doo wop all day at this historic diner that helps vacationers start their day with dishes like The Hangover — home fries topped with country-fried steak, eggs, and the restaurant’s signature chipped beef.

Bagel Time Cafe in Wildwood - A local favorite — and not just for bagels. John Dorio’s dish of choice? The nova bowl, topped with cream cheese and arugula.

Mack’s Pizza on the Boardwalk - It’s nothing fancy, but this classic pizza joint right on the boardwalk is a good stand-by when you’re looking for a quick bite on the go.

PigDog Beach Bar on the Boardwalk - Sink your feet in the sand at this casual open-air barbecue spot on the beach right near Raging Waters Water Park.

Curley's Fries on the Boardwalk - Curley’s has been serving its addictive fries since 1974. Order a bucket topped with Old Bay seasoning, Cuban spices, or simple sea salt.

Kohr Brothers on the Boardwalk - This isn’t your average boardwalk ice cream: Kohr serves a silky frozen custard that’s still made from the original 1919 recipe.

Joe’s Fish Co. on the Boardwalk - This open-air restaurant overlooking the amusement rides has a seafood lover’s menu of crab cakes, fish and chips, and even a lobster bake.

Hooked Up Seafood in Wildwood - Hole-in-the-wall waterfront crab shack on the outskirts of town that serves fresh steamed garlic crabs that you crack yourself.

Sol Restaurant in Wildwood - Latin fusion restaurant with live music on the weekends. “They bring a cool new vibe to the island,” says John. “The chimichurri and the swordfish are off the charts.”

Santorini in Wildwood - A new BYOB restaurant serving Greek Mediterranean food. “When you walk in there, you really do feel like you’re on a Greek island,” says John.

Surfing Pig in North Wildwood - Wood-smoked barbeque, just-caught seafood, live music, and views of the back bay that can’t be beat.

Mudhen Brewing Co. in Wildwood - A local microbrewery known for its 1883 IPA and killer barbeque.

Swine Bar in North Wildwood - This new reservation-only restaurant set right above the Surfing Pig has amazing water views. Order the flounder francaise and the smoked pork belly with local seared scallops (foie gras topping optional).

Beach Creek Oyster Bar & Grill in Wildwood - When Bill Bumbernick is looking to take a night off from his own restaurants (Surfing Pig, Swine Bar), he heads to this waterfront seafood spot, which he says has “a great vibe and great food.”

One Fish Two Fish in Wildwood - A new BYOB restaurant on Pacific Avenue with a cool urban vibe and indoor and outdoor seating. The pan-seared tuna and the PEI mussels can’t be beat.

Joey M's La Piazza Cucina in Wildwood - “When I want to get an old-school chicken parm and be serenaded, Ratpack sixties style, this is where I go,” says John. “It’s like having dinner with Frank Sinatra.

One of the iconic landmarks in the Wildwoods is actually a newer addition: a giant sign with the word “Wildwoods” spelled out in massive letters and surrounded by beach balls. The Instagram-ready public space at the intersection of Rio Grande Avenue and the boardwalk was the brainchild of Jack Morey, whose father cofounded Morey’s Piers back in 1969, transforming a sleepy beach destination into an action-packed Jersey Shore escape. “I said, ‘This sign needs to be big, bold, brash, and elegant,” says Jack. “It needs to stand for what this town is.” These days, the Wildwoods’ beach ball sign is just one of the many things that makes this place so special. Here are some other man-made thrills to check out.

Boardwalk amusements - Whether you’re into daredevil roller coasters or more mundane bumper cars, you’ll find a thrill ride that suits you at Morey’s Piers, which sprawls across 38 blocks along the boardwalk. This family-owned amusement park has more than 100 rides and attractions set on three piers that jut out on the beach.

Waterparks - There are three beachfront waterparks in Wildwoods, but the best are the two parks set at the end of the Surfside and Mariner’s piers and run by the Morey family. Ocean Oasis is home to the WipeOut — the Morey family’s first ride on the boardwalk — and the Cliff Dive, which drops five stories in three seconds. At Raging Waters, you can rent private cabanas, float on a lazy river, and plunge down Shotgun Falls.

Biking - Wildwood is legendary for its biking, thanks to flat surfaces and a 12-mile bike path that stretches from the Wildwood Crest Dunes, onto the boardwalk, and all the way to the North Wildwood sea wall. Green’s will rent you a cruiser or a vintage-style surrey that can hold the whole family.

Mini-golf - What’s a beach destination without putt-putt golf? Island Miniature Golf is the place if you want to be outside. If it’s raining (or if you just like crazy putting greens that glow in the dark), head inside to Dragon’s Lair or Pirates of Wildwood.

Movies and more - There’s always something happening at the outdoor event venue Byrne Plaza — from Tuesday night family movies to Thursday night concerts to a Saturday morning farmers market.

Fireworks - At around 9 p.m. on Friday nights in the summer, a dazzling (and free!) display of fireworks lights up the night sky. For the best view, head to the upstairs deck at Joe’s Fish Co. or grab a blanket or a chair and stake out a spot on Pike Beach to watch the explosions right overhead.

Beaches - The Wildwoods’ has five miles of sandy beaches that stretch along the Atlantic Ocean. Unlike some other Jersey Shore towns that require beach tags, they’re wide and free. Where to go? Families are happy just about anywhere, but especially near the life-guarded beaches near Morey’s Piers (the life-saving boats make for a great holiday card backdrop). For surfers, the best break is at Rambler Road in Wildwood Crest. Traveling with Fido? Head to dog-friendly Glenwood Avenue Beach.

Wildlife - When Michelle Rutkowski wants to soak in the natural beauty, she heads to the quiet (and relatively undiscovered) Cape May National Wildlife Refuge at the tip of the island. “It’s cool to take little kids through the marshes,” says Michelle.

Fishing - You’ll find some pretty spectacular fishing in the Wildoods. The best place to go fishing is along the piers that line the Intracoastal Waterway at Sweetbriar Road in Wildwood Crest, a.k.a “the back bay.” For surf fishing, head to the beaches along Hereford Inlet in North Wildwood.

Crabbing - You can catch blue claw crabs all over the island, from the tidal marsh areas on the west side to the docks along the back bay. A popular spot is the Grassy Sound Marina, which will set you up with nets and bait.

Watersports - Get out and explore the wetlands and the wildlife. The South Dock Watersports Center rents out pontoon boats, kayaks, and paddle boards.

Doo-Wop Preservation League Museum in Wildwood - Set in a retro restaurant is a museum that’s dedicated to Wildwood’s doo-wop architecture and neon signs. The museum also hosts tours of the area for design buffs who want to know more about the atomic era.

Wildwood Historical Society - George F. Boyer Museum in Wildwood -

This quirky little museum is the place to learn about this island’s fascinating history. “You can see what Wildwood was like at the turn of the last century all the way through the heyday of the fifties and sixties, right up until today,” says John Dorio.

Hereford Inlet Lighthouse in North Wildwood - It’s worth the 69 steps to the top of North Wildwood’s 18th century lighthouse — a Victorian-era structure that is still operating — for the panoramic view of the area.

Laura’s Fudge in Wildwood - The first fudge shop in the Wildwoods is also one of the cutest, thanks to its retro pink façade.

Boardwalk’s Best Gift & Variety Store on the Boardwalk - This beach-themed general store right on the boardwalk stocks all your vacation needs (and an impressive collection of souvenir T-shirts).

Naval Air Station Wildwood Aviation Museum in Cape May - A rainy day is the perfect excuse to take a detour to this museum set in a hangar at the Cape May County airport. You can travel back in time and explore aviation and military history and check out the former dive-bomber squadron training facility from the 1940s.