All of those people with a real interest in Rwanda should attempt to get hold of the film "Sometimes in April" which is a truer depiction of the events which occurred in Rwanda, as despite allowing a wider audience to become aware of the events of the 1990's, the film Hotel Rwanda failed to outline: the complex nature of the relationship between the Hutus and the Tutsis; the role of the West in setting in place the foundations for the genocide or the true extent of the atrocities which occurred. Also,and this may appear to be quite an extrarodinary statement, Paul Rusesabagina [the former manager of the Milles Collines Hotel] is not widely revered in Rwanda , in fact quite the converse. Aside from support frompockets of the Hutu community,he is considered to be a "bit of a rogue" and someone who sheltered only those who were able to pay him. It is very difficult to ascertain the truth of the matter and much is dependent upon who you are conversing with at any particular point in time. His role as "protector" has been expunged from all of the Genocide memorials which exist in Rwanda [and there are probably over a hundred of these memorials which bare testimony to how individuals and communities sheltered and assisted others often to their detriment]. Therefore, forl those visiting the country, it is better to err on the side of caution when mentioning this man to avoid causing any possible offence. Ultimately, it is very difficult to know what to believe and this is a further difficulty with the country - the revision of history....
Attempt to get hold of the book "The Rwanda Crisis - History of a Genocide" by Gerard Prunier which provides a very thorough analysis of the genesis of the genocide and the West's role in it all. He outlines how history is revised in Rwanda. A very stark example is the portrayal of the genocide as being purely targeted against the Tutsis. A substantial number of moderate Hutus were also massacred during this time and when Paul Kagame [current President of Rwanda] seized power in 1994 thousands of Hutus were then systematically slaughtered in revenge attacks. The situation in Rwanda is therefore very complex.
The hurt, sadness and horror of what happened in Rwanda is often etched on the faces of these people. Superficially they will tell you that they are "all Rwandese" but when you really get talking to them they will tell you that they still perceive distinctions between the groups. The only difference is that they are not allowed to openly mention this. You will speak with many people who had lost every single member of their family including their extended family. There is hardly a family in this country who has not suffered a loss. There are women who have been victims of multiple rapes who have either unwanted children of are now suffering from HIV/AIDS; there are so many orphans in this country and children who when school has ended have no families to go home to at the end of term and so must remain in school. Furthermore, despite the fact that everywhere you go in Rwanda there are Genocide memorial signs and reminders, what happened in this country is not taught in schools, so you have this paradoxical situation where there are reminders everywhere yet the Rwandan government will not teach its young what happened...
There is a UK organisation which set up several of the Genocide memorials in Rwanda [very stark memorials with human remains, skulls, etc which lie as they were on the day the people were slaughtered] - anyone going to Rwanda should visit - The Kigali Memorial Centre where 150,000 are buried in mass graves; the Nyamata Church where thousands of people sought shelter in a church only for the Priest to betray them.. [they were all killed and the church remains as it was.. blood stained altar, bullet holes all over the church and human remains stored in an underground chamber ..] it is very very difficult to see.The Murambi memorial is possibly the starkest and most graphic memorial.. thousands were rounded up in a school in the village of Murambi only to be slaughtered and their entire remains are still in the school preserved in various rooms .....
The country itself is glorious. Visit Gisenyi in particular [There is a really pretty place on Lake Kivu called the Malahide Paradise which was about 6 kms on the outskirts of Giseyi in the village of Rubona] and Kibuye [The Hotel Centre Bethanie based here was also lovely and very scenic].The people are generous, friendly and have so much strength and courage that if you travel here you cannot help but return a different person. You have to go to a country like this to understand what real tragedy is and it puts your own life into perspective. The experience will be deeply touching.
A lot of international economic aid has been poured into this country so its infrastructure is excellent. The roads are new in the larger towns and villages with buildings reconstructed.. in fact on arrival in Kigali you can be taken aback by the levels of wealth there [many Rwandese with very expensive 4x4's!!] but it can be a bit deceptive as there are still many, many Rwandese who are destitute particularly in the villages [yet unlike Uganda] there is no one haranguing you for money so it makes you more inclined to give whatever you are able to afford. Another anomaly is that there are large levels of inequity in Rwandese society and you will see that many Tutsis now have the better jobs and positions within the country whilst a lot of the Hutus have menial jobs.
Much has been written here about the Genocide as it is omnipresent everywhere you go in Rwanda. You cannot escape it and people will tell you about what has happened to them without you ever asking [and do not ask them about their experiences wait for people to disclose if they wish to]. There is a sense when you visit the country that the genocide has happened only last year it felt very new and raw.
