Do's 

1. Bring tissues with you as toilets are often unequipped!

2. Use antibacterial hand gel as a good alternative to washing hands.

3. Agree the taxi fare before entering a petit taxi. You can normally get anywhere in Marrakech for under 50 dh or try just getting in and stating your destination with no discussion. You may get a surprise and he will use the meter. If he does give a couple of Dirhams as a reward!

4. Visit El Badi Palace and see the storks.

5. Visit Saadian tombs but decline the offer of a tour guide. There isn't a lot to see and often a 10/20 minute queue to see the main room.

6. Watch the main square come alive from a rooftop restaurant.

7. Eat from an outside market stall (prices are cheap and food is superb) Eat with your hands,the cutlery is rinsed between clients. 

8. Barter hard when buying from the souks. A quarter to a third of the offered price and work your way up.  Sellers feel it when you are in love with the item. Around the corner you will find the same one, so walk away, it may help to get the price down.

9. Visit Majorelle Gardens a great calm retreat, early morning or late afternoon is best to avoid the tour bus groups.

10. Visit the Cyber Park Arsat Moulay Abdel Salam, it is free and far bigger than the Majorelle Gardens and peaceful.

11. Stay at a Riad . Take pictures of hard to remember alleys.

12. Visit the Ben Ali Yusuf Madrasa and Museum.

13. Ignore the people who try and send  you in the wrong direction.

14. When you agree to a price, for example for a henna tattoo, have it written down in dirhams first. You will not be the first one they tell afterwards that you did not understand them correctly.

15. Do buy pastry, including croissants, in bakery stores for $20-30 cents

16.  Do be prepared for anyone you tip to tell you "more , more".  Whatever you tip them, they will try for more so here is what to do:  smile, then laugh and pat them on the back.  Then turn and walk away.  Sometimes they will give you the stink eye, sometimes they just start smiling too.  Dont get worked up about it.

17. Try and speak a little french. Saying 'Merci' and 'Bonjour' can go such a long way. Do not be a rude tourist who does not make an effort! 

18. Do go and see where they dye the leather in smelly vats because it is real Marrakech.

19. Arrange with your taxi to the medina for dinner in the riads to collect you - they are quite prepared to let you pay after they collect you as they get a bigger fare - and they will get out and take you to the Riad - many of them are impossible to find.  

Don'ts

1. Buy water from the main square. Supermarkets are are often cheaper. A five litre bottle of mineral water is 8 Dirhams as of 2012 at the Carrefour Market store, about 20 minutes walk from the square.

2. Take pictures of snakes/ monkeys/ dancers/watersellers, unless you are prepared to pay.

3. Nothing is free! Not even the man who unexpectedly turns up to say the ... is there. You will meet him again and again all along the way.

4. Don't Forget a map of the city it can be invaluable. Most streets are not named so a map with landmarks and hotels is very useful.

5. Worry about access to money as there are plenty of cashpoints scattered around the city.

6. Do not panic (and keep a sense of humour). Many of the people are very friendly and helpful.

7. Forget to book a taxi transfer to your Riad. It would be very difficult to find if your coach/bus airport transfer dropped you off at the main square.

8. Do not forget sensible shoes or trainers. The streets in the Medina are cobbled and hard on your feet.  When it rains it can get muddy in certain places.

9. Don't forget to pack a small torch to navigate the less well lit lanes of the medina at night and always carry low value notes for tips.