Why do gourmands love Melbourne?
For the visitor to Melbourne, a visit to any food market provides insight as to why Melbourne is one of the great Foodie capitals of the world, and why its restaurants turn out superb and eclectic cuisine. This is a place where people love to travel via their plates. In this city dining out and cooking diverse foods is a way of life rather than a way to show off.
Immigrants from Europe, Asia, and more recently the Middle East and Africa, have merged their cultures into the city's melting pot, blending unique ingredients into the every day palates of the average Melbournian. Central markets & Farmers' markets across the city and suburbs of Melbourne reflect this diversity and passion for the overlap of cultures and ingredients. Just walk through any supermarket too and you'll find an array that is unique as compared to other countries and some Australian cities.
Local produce
Spread across the inner city and suburbs are a plethora of providores. You can pick from specialties peculiar to the regions mentioned above, plus boutique stores and market stalls specialising in local fare. Australians have a fantastic choice when it comes to fresh produce, given the diverse range of climates and soils, so shoppers have at their fingertips both European and Asian fruit and vegetables, tropical fruit and those native to both temperate and arid lands.
Melbourne's meat is flavoursome and well raised. Excellent farming conditions in Eastern Victoria provide wonderful fare. There is also a growing trend of cultivating flavourful, slow grown rare breed meats from old style breeds of beef, pork and lamb that have been gradually phased out due to the demand from supermarkets for fast growing animals. You will find many better restaurants source their meats from the smaller growers and will taste the difference. Some such as Nacional in Albert Park endeavour to source the majority of their fresh organic and biodynamic produce locally.
There is an abundance of seafood in many forms here too, and Australian rock oysters rival those of the French Belon. Speaking of things French, Australia now also grows truffles, which are seasonally available here. You'll find a fantastic selection of quality meat and small goods at prices lower than those of many other countries, and the taste - well you need to be here to understand how good life is. To add to this Melbourne has many weekend Farmer's Markets where produce is available direct from the grower and artisanal breads, boutique cheeses, pastas, sauces, preserves, milk, butter, herbs, spices and wines are also on offer at these colourful community gatherings. For details go to AFMA
Gourmet events
Melbourne also hosts food festivals and regular food related events. One of the favourites every year is The World's Longest Lunch where thousands gather across the state to participate in the event. Check out the Melbourne Food and Wine Festival Website for culinary events. On Wednesdays in summer The Victoria Market Night Market attracts hungry hoards seeking to try anything from Feijoada to Pofertjes in the open air, accompanied by live music.
If you love cooking classes, world class chefs visit for master class session at the March festival and the winter Slow Food Festival, and both the Queen Victoria Market and Essential Ingredient cooking schools are well subscribed by those wanting to learn from their favourite chefs or even about sustainable foods. Cook bookworms should head straight to Books for Cooks in Fitzroy where you'll find both new and old books on food, wine and the culinary arts.
For an inside look at the evolution of the food scene in Melbourne take the Eat, Drink, Melbourne audio tour. Simply download the podcast/audio file to your MP3 player, and print out the street map of the walking component. The tour starts from Federation Square and developed in conjunction with the history department of Melbourne University, hosts Chef Stephanie Alexander and presenter Derek Guille guide you on a journey around the Central Business District featuring points of culinary interest and hilarious tales of old Melbourne, including the story of a food fight of 100 000 participants. The tour takes you on to the Victoria Market, Chinatown, The Royal & Block Arcades and Degraves Street amongst other sights.
The gastronomic underbelly - City laneway secrets
Being a relatively young city in the global scheme of things means that the town planning of Melbourne was orderly and not organically adhoc. You will find that the Central Business District (CBD/Downtown) forms a neat grid - as was the way in the Victorian era. Consequently many of the more interesting venues in the food & beverage scene have trickled into the lanes and tiny alleyways in the city.
From breakfast venues to delis and tiny food stores, snack bars and cafes, highly priced specialty restaurants, bars and clubs, this rich vein of delights is often considered one of the highlights of a trip to Melbourne, which can be enjoyed all year around. Many venues sport outdoor tables and some are at the top of a flight of stairs. Each one is intimate and cosmopolitan, often quirky and colourful which makes them beat at the heart of urban life. Here you will see under the surface of the city and into the mindset of the locals, who don't really care about the exterior, when what is contained within is so tantalising. To 'make a silk purse of a sow's ear' is championed and to know of a fabulous, hidden and discrete venue in town offers instant cachet.
Popular food and bar laneways to explore are Liverpool Street, Hosier Lane, Meyers Place, Degreaves Street, Flinders Lane, Hardware Lane, Little Bourke Street, Crossley Street, Waratah Place, Centre Place, Bligh Place, Celestial Lane, Duckboard Place, Block Place, George Parade, The Causeway, Little Collins Street, Bennetts Lane, Bullens Lane, Mckillop Street, Sniders Lane, Goldie Place and Market Lane.
For a candid discussion on laneway imbibing view this VodCast at CityPod.com.au - 'Laneway Eating & Drinking'.
For more reading matter on the subject go to Only Melbourne's 'Lose yourself in Melbourne's Laneways'.
Melbourne Foodie highlights
Markets
- Check out the Queen Victoria Market, (Cnr Elizabeth & Victoria Streets CBD - closed Monday, Wednesdays & public holidays) Melbourne's biggest market situated on 7 hectares in the CBD, it is a sight to behold. Over 130years old, it houses 150 fresh-food stalls and up to 600 general traders. Here you can to savour artisanal dairy produce, cheeses, sausages, smoked meats and more, amidst a vast choice of deli's - Greek, German, Italian, French, Kosher and even locally produced African pre-packaged meals. You'll find a food hall filled with butchers and fishmongers, and out in the open dozens of grocery (green produce) vendors featuring the freshest produce available including a diverse array of both European and Asian fruit and vegetables. Outside the delicatessan hall you'll find an area set aside purely for organic produce. Nearby are Asian Grocery stores, vans selling doughnuts and churros, and a food hall. Try one of the 'Foodie Tours' around the market which showcase the history and produce for visitors
- Prahran Market (Commercial Road, South Yarra - closed Monday and Wednesdays) is very accessible from the central city via public transport a short walk from Prahran Railway station, cater sto locals and have less of a tourist vibe than The Victoria Market.
It has some excellent specialist stalls. In particular one selling mushrooms and another with many kinds of potatoes. There are boutique local chocolates, a vast array of deli's selling antipasti, cured meats and cheeses alongside bread, excellent fishmongers and butchers of organic meat. Public cooking demonstrations in the market Square are popular with those taking a break and a bite to eat from takeaway venues.
At one end there is also an upmarket/pricey gourmet providore that also holds cooking classes, sells cookbooks and all manner of flatware, tableware and culinary equipment - The Essential Ingredient is at the western end of the market, beyond the meat and fish hall. - The South Melbourne Market (Corner Coventry, Cecil & York Streets, South Melbourne) a short journey via light rail tram #96 St.Kilda beach from Bourke St CBD heading south west. Ticketed parking is also available nearby.
At The South Melbourne Market (open Friday, Saturday, Sunday & Wednesday until 4pm) amongst the flowers, fresh herbs, fruit, vegetables, meat, fish and variety stores you'll find a cheese room, caterers, and Melbourne's beloved 'Dim Sims' - a large steamed or fried dumpling based on a Cantonese Shui Mai.
The Dim Sim stall on Cecil Street often hosts long queues of fans on weekends. The Spanish stall draws lovers of Spanish Doughnuts - Churros and people often stop amongst the eateries on cecil Street for coffee or fill the food court for a quick bite of vietnamese, Chinese dumplings, baked potatoes, hot dogs, cakes and hearty sandwiches.
Rita's stall at the York Street end of the Deli Aisle is an excellent providore of gourmet products, sweets, biscuits and snacks, artisanal flours and grains and coffee. The large corner stall opposite her's has a chesse room devoted to many fine local and imported cheeses, they also sell tarts, cured meats, pasta and anti-pasti. Here you'll also find stalls selling sustainably produced organic fruit, vegetables and meat, a health food store, Spanish food, Chinese roasted meats and hand made dumplings.
On offer here too are many non-food stalls selling everything from rugs to clothes and pet-care, to Sheepskin Ugg boots, AFL merchandise, fabric, discounted toiletries, plants & gardening items, second-hand books and cheap homewares.
Opposite the market is The Chef's Hat, a super store that supplies many of Melbourne's restaurants with all their culinary equipment and an extensive range of tableware suitable also for home and for catering services. The Chef’s hat is open 7days. In the vicinity are many great small cafes such asPanette, Qeleven and Sweethearts Cafe, along with an excellent Patisserie, Let Them Eat Cake.
Providores
There are a number of excellent Providores dotted around the inner city:
- Simon Johnson, (12-14 St David Street, Fitzroy - also 471 Toorak Road, Toorak) is a food merchant offering top quality oils, vinegars, chocolates, sauces and spice mixes as well as a cheese room full of local goodies.
- Eurodore in Port Melbourne is an attractive space with and excellent selection of imported and local gourmet produce for sale. Also now serving innovative light meals at the front and to one side which feature their wares and can include items such as French Rabbit Pie.
- If in Fitzroy, drop into Alimentari, for Mediterranean and Middle Eastern delicatessen items and cafe food.
- Lunch and shop at Richmond Hill Cafe and Larder for the best of Australian and imported cheeses. - 48-50 Bridge Road, Richmond (03) 9421 2808 co-owned by Stephanie Alexander, an Australian Food Icon. Book into one of their cheese workshops when you are in town and experience some great local and imported cheeses. Great cheeses can also be found at South Melbourne Market and Victoria Market.
- Oliveria is an emporium devoted to Olive Oil and olive-related products. Sample the finest quality Extra Virgin Olive Oils from Australia and around the world; on tap or packaged. Discover the exquisite falvours of their specially selected Tapenades and Dukkas, not to mention their handcrafted Olive Leaf Teas and infusions, and luxurious range of olive-based cosmetics. Olives? Only the finest can be found here. A treat for the discerning foodie.
- The Essential Ingredient mentioned above under the Prahran Market is brings together exotic grocery items under the one roof that you might ordinarily have to go to various boutique or ethnic stores to find.
Bakeries, Patisseries and Chocolate
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Artisanal baking is extremely popular in Melbourne. Try Noisette Boulangerie Cafe (Port Melbourne), Dench Bakers (North Fitzroy), Knead Bakers (Hawthorn), Baker D.Chirico (St Kilda), il Fornaio (St Kilda), Firebrand (Ripponlea), Chimmy's and Babka (Fitzroy). Phillippa's Bread's are found throughout Melbourne and at farmer's markets, but you can also visit her cafe and buy her breads at 1030 High Street, Armadale.
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Sublime Cakes can be found at Let them Eat Cake (147-149 Cecil Street, South Melbourne), Brunetti in Carlton and the CBD for sweet Italian style delights, and the Laurent chain of stores serve French pastries, coffee, simple lunches and breakfast - their custard filled doughnuts have a big following. Noisette - mentioned - above also has superlative cakes and hand made chocolates. Their croissant sell out early, and at Easter so do their hot cross buns. Hausfrau is the brainchild of a couple of Austrians who originally came out here to work for Uber-Chef paul Bocuse. Their shop is tongue in cheek kitsch, serving excellent Germanic style cakes and pastries.
- Some very popular Chocolate shops to explore, enjoy a hot chocolate and other delights are Koko Black (5 stores), Cacao (St Kilda) and Max Brenner, Chocolateria San Churro or retail chocolate shop Haighs.
Multicultural food hotspots
- VIETNAMESE
Close to the City Melbourne's 'Little Saigon' district is in Victoria Street, Richmond (Between Hoddle St & Church St, catch the 109 tram, heading east from Collins St, City). Footscray is also strong in South East Asian culture, and while was once a rougher part of town, is rapidly gentrifying and easily accessible by train. Footscray has the largest Vietnamese market in town, Saigon Supermarket (Corner of Leeds and Byron St).
If you have a car during your stay, there is another large Vietnamese precinct further out in suburban Springvale which also features Laotian, Thai and Cambodian grocers and eateries. In each community you can peruse the many Asian food stores and authentic restaurants - which have not been watered down to suit Anglo palates. Naturally these are predominantly Southern Vietnamese and are some of the cheapest and best eats to be had in town. - CHINESE
Chinatown is located in several blocks along Little Bourke Street from Exhibition Street to Swanston Street, in downtown Melbourne, and early in the year, Chinese New Year festivities always draw crowds. Box Hill and Glen Waverley have become sprawling suburban Chinatown alternatives, with many cheap Pan-Asian offerings available from Shanghainese food, to Cantonese, Malay, Vietnamese and Japanese goodies. There are way too many good ones to single out.
At the top end of the scale in Chinatown, Flower Drum has consistently won awards and in the moderately priced, both the Shark Fin Inn and Dragon Boat restaurants are popular with the Chinese community, having brought out excellent specialty chefs from Hong Kong. Silks at the Crown Casino is also popular for the grand dining experience, but there are many smaller, convivial venues that include Malaysian, Indian, Thai and regional Chinese cuisine, with dumpling and noodle shops becoming a fast favourite for inner city workers. Many of these are excellent cheap eats and can be found between Chinatown and the State Library of Victoria in Swanston Street. - ITALIAN
Carlton is the original home of the Italian community. Though often mentioned, Lygon Street, Carlton, holds mixed feelings for Melbournians in regards to the standard of foods in this Little Italy precinct. Some consider that it is frozen in the 1950’s, when many Italians arrived and authentic recipes and ingredients were thin on the ground. It has since become quite a tourist centre and now some venues even send touts onto the street to flag down custom. this does not happen anywhere else in melbourne and consequently any venue that does this is considered to be aiming at tourists. With it’s pretty tree lined Boulevard and Victorian Era buildings, it is a nice area to shop and stroll with a Gelati after a visit to the Melbourne Museum. Some would say that a visit to the Brunetti’s cake shop for their huge range of dolce and coffee or breakfast, is a mandatory whilst there.
For a more authentic Italian dining experience go further north in Carlton to visit the fabulous Enoteca for supplies, cooking classes wine bar and a restaurant serving great meals and assaggini (920 Lygon Street, North Carlton). In the city for delicious modern Italian dining try Grossi Florentino, The Italian, Becco, Cecconi's Cantina and Giuseppe Arnaldo & Sons to name a few. - MIDDLE EASTERN & NORTH AFRICAN
Sydney Road Brunswick is host to many Middle Eastern and Mediterranean marvels from cafes to specialist halal butchers, to groceries, to sweet pastries, to breads stuffed with tantalising fillings and spices. Drive along the long shopping strip or take a leisurely ride on the number 19 North Coburg tram heading north on Elizabeth Street. - Visit Mediterranean Wholesalers (482 Sydney Road, Brunswick), a supermarket of Italian delights including fresh homemade pasta, bread, antipasti, dolce, cheese, smoked meats, sausages vast cans of olive oil, boxes of salt cod and Italian wines.
- Further North at A1 Bakery (643-645 Sydney Road, Brunswick), you will find great Middle Eastern grocery, including nuts, pomegranate molasses, orange blossom water, big bags of za'atar & sumac, powdered dessert mix, fairy floss, oils and delicious freshly baked goodies which can be also be enjoyed in their modest café with a thick Middle Eastern coffee.
- Balhas Pastry (761-763 Sydney Road, Brunswick) has been serving up a delectable array of sticky Lebanese cakes for 20 years and is very popular with the Muslim community.
- Some Middle Eastern restaurants to consider near the CBD are Mecca Bah, Rumi, Arabesque, Zum Zum and Mamaganoush. The best of Middle Eastern Fine Dining in Melbourne can be found at Momo in the basement of the Grand Hyatt in Collins Street.
- A list of North African venues and an article about the rise in these cuisine's popularity can be found here, reflecting the latest influx of migrants and with an emphasis on Ethiopian cuisine, many of which are clustered in the suburb of Footscray.
- MITTLE EUROPEAN & JEWISH or KOSHER
Eastern European and Kosher delights can be found in Glenhuntly Road, Elsternwick, & Carlisle Street, East St Kilda. For huge Schnitzels and delicious authentic Hungarian Paprika based dishes visit Budapest Palinka Bar in Glenhuntly Road just near the Elsternwick railway station. Considered a St.Kilda institution, Scherazade has been providing chopped liver, chicken soup with matza balls and large schnitzel to emigres, artists and the curious since the 1950's. A popular Kosher bakery is Glicks where amongst bagels you will find blintzes, latkes and rogelach. - This area is also growing a following for great coffee, hearty breakfasts and brunches - one of the most popular is Las Chicas, though there are many others to choose from.
- GREEK
The Greek Community can be found in suburban Oakleigh (in fact about 5000 turned up there to greet the Greek prime Minister recently) but closer to town there is plenty of Greek dining in Swan Street, Richmond (catch the number 70 tram from Flinders St in the city, or any train heading to Richmond or East Richmond from the city stations).
In the heart of the CBD the traditional hang out for the Greek Community is Lonsdale Street, near the corner of Russel Street, and this strip of Greek venues dates back from the 1930's. Once a year there is the Antipodes festival, celebrating the Greek Culture here and it draws many into the heart of town. In this small strip, there are still plenty of 'xaks' - cakes shops - and cafes there, and many locals have been going to Stalectites since 1978 for a late night Gyros/souvlaki.
For a contemporary twist on Greek Fine Dining in down town Melbourne the amazing George Calombaris' The Press Club or Hellenic Republic. If in Port Melbourne, visit The Rose, a pub specialising in Modern Greek fare and occasionally there will be live bousouki music too and Nikitas, which was originally one of the community's most popular in Swan Street, Richmond.
SPANISH - Johnston Street, Fitzroy is where to go for Spanish food stores, restaurants and bars. For up market Spanish dining go to Frank Camorra's Movida - 1 Hosier Lane, Melbourne and Neuvo37 and Sotano Tapas Bar by Ramon Frexi at the Hilton at South Wharf.
For more casual Spanish dining in Smith St, Collingwood there is The Matador Room at the incongruously named Sir Robert Burns Hotel, which for 25 years has been serving up moderately priced, hearty Paella’s and Spanish dishes in humble surrounds, to those in the know. Nearby in Gertrude Street, Fitzroy, is Anada, a tapas bar that's cheaper than the vaunted Movida Next Door, the uber popular off shoot of Movida mentioned above.
For Portuguese Tapas in the city, try the tiny Bar Lourinha where you will sit on high stools at communal tables. In South Melbourne at the market during Truffle season, Simply Spanish serves Paella made with locally sourced truffles. Lovers of Churros should visit Chocolateria San Churro at 277 Brunswick Street Fitzroy for Spanish chocolate other venues can be found in Acland Street, St.Kilda and QV shopping Centre in the CBD.
Other Restaurant Precincts
- FEDERATION SQUARE over looking the Yarra river hosts innovative fine dining at Taxi and a number of bars and casual eateries such as Chocolate Buddha and the eclectic eclectic Arintji.
- SOUTHGATE
Next to the Victorian Arts Centre on the Yarra River, looking across to the Victorian Architecture of The Flinders Street Station Southgate is a complex of shops and restaurants open from breakfast to dinner time. Downstairs is a food court for quick cheap and cheerful meals while on the waterfront and upstairs restaurants ply their trade. Notable venues are Tutto Bene where you will find a unique and delicious array of risotto and classic Italian dishes and Pure South which features excellent produce from King island and Flinders Island and from the Southern State of Tasmania. - CROWN CASINO
This entertainment venue, like many casinos, offers a number of food and beverage outlets, from a food court that spills out to the waterfront from the public gaming floor, to high turnover venues and buffets within and attached to various aspects of the gaming floor from the poker machine area to the tables areas. There is quite a bit of Asian food on offer, reflecting the majority of the punters but there is also simple bistro food available and a steak restaurant on the gaming floor.
On the waterfront promenade there are mid priced venues and high end venues nestled side by side with city and water views. Most noted are Rockpool, Nobu and Bistro Guillaume. The Casino itself also hosts some high end venues such as Silks (Chinese), Koko (Japanese), Waterfront (Seafood) and there are the hotel venues, Breezes and Conservatory - which in addition to breakfast to dinner offerings, serves afternoon tea. Popular family venues include Cervo, Cafe Greco and Automatic.
Above the gaming floor is a large buffet restaurant and a selection of bars, The Palms which specialises in big spectacle shows, a nightclub, live music venue and a grill room. Details can be found at the Casino's website and the high end/special occasion venues are listed on Trip Advisor's Melbourne Dining Hotspots Inside Page. - ST KILDA
(catch the #96 St.Kilda beach tram from Bourke St CBD to Fitzroy Street) is full of art, music and nightlife, by the bay. There are delis and in Acland Street, Eastern European cake shops with sumptuous, sticky window displays that open well into the night.
- Restaurant highlights include Mirka at Tolarno, Café Di Stasio's, Cicciolina, The Stokehouse and Donovans
- Mid priced venues include Mr Wolf, Pizze e Birre, The George Melbourne Wine Room, Cafe a Taglio, il Fornaio, Pelican
- There are a host of cheap and cheerful, funky venues too like Claypots, Bluecorn, Big Mouth, Chinta Blues, Il Fornaio and Greasy Joes which is an institution for short order hangover fixes. i Carusi II serve up some of the best pizzas in Melbourne.
- Restaurant highlights include Mirka at Tolarno, Café Di Stasio's, Cicciolina, The Stokehouse and Donovans
A couple of useful websites to peruse for dining out in Melbourne are YourRestaurants & Citysearch. These sites are quite comprehensive and contain maps along with many editorial and customer reviews with suggestions for restaurants, cafes, bars, night markets and events such as the Harvest Picnic and food fests.
A local tourism website that may also prove helpful on the topic of food and wine can be found at Visit Melbourne.
You'll find Melbourne has something to explore for every palate from the traditional to the exotic, from casual dining to haute cuisine. For more restaurants at the top end of the market, go to Melbourne Inside page: Dining Hot Spots.