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One Day in Lisbon

Start the day with a quick coffee or three (espresso, of course) sitting in the shade outside A Brasileira in the Chiado, watching people rushing off to work, waving off the sunglass sellers, and soaking up the atmosphere of being in Lisbon.

Next, a very short metro/train trip to Belém, where you can spend an hour or so wandering around the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos - the most beautiful building in Lisbon. With any luck, mass will be on in the Church of Santa Maria, which is attached to the Monastery. There are few churches more beautiful than this one when it is filled with music and the swirl of incense smoke in the light streaming through the windows facing the Tejo. (Even better, when mass is on there are less tourists in the church, and you can get in as long as you know how to genuflect properly.)

After that, it's time for more coffee, accompanied by two perfect Pastéis de Belém (portuguese tarts) from Casa Pastéis de Belém just down the road. They'll be hot from the oven, dusted with cinnamon and icing sugar.

Next, hop on the tram outside Casa Pastéis, and trundle back to the city, walking back up the hill to the Chiado to burn off those pasteis. At this point, you can either visit the charmingly odd Museu Arqueológico do Carmo (with its roman and renaissance artifacts randomly stuck all over the walls of an earthquake ravaged ruin, and a wonderfully chilly museum space with some highly disturbing South American mummies), or wander the shops in the Chiado, slowly making your way up to the little shops in the Bairro Alto (which are just now reopening after their mid morning break). Try Casa das Velas do Loreto, a candle shop on Rua do Loreto, a short walk up from A Brasileira. Their candles are wonderful (particularly the scented ones) and the shop is tiny and perfect and very very old.

Once you are a little bored with shopping, it's a quick taxi ride to the Gulbenkian Museum in order to see its astounding collection of medieval books, asian pottery, european furniture, a particularly fine Turner canvas and the finest collection of Lalique jewellery anywhere.  Lunch is in the cafeteria in the Modern Art museum just next door, after a wander in the grounds.

Time for a nap! Awaking refreshed, go for a drink at the rooftop bar in the Bairro Alto hotel, where you can drink cocktails, while watching the sunset and the river with Lisbon's beautiful people.

Dinner will be at about 9pm at the tiny As Barrigas in the Bairro. The food is wonderful, and the owner is quite lovely, always happy to offer wine suggestions, and (with typical Portuguese hospitality) she usually throws in a complimentary aperitif if you try to speak Portuguese to her.

Stuffed from a late dinner, it's time to walk down the hill to the bottom of Rua da Atalaia - it will be full of happy, friendly people standing in the street and drinking. After a few capirinhas, and a lot of crowd watching, you can stumble home and sleep.