Can you visit the Valle de los Caidos?  Is it open?  Is it closed? 

This is a tetchy subject. The Valle de los Caidos was built  on the orders of Franco, who was the winner of the Spanish Civil War. He built it in rememberance of all that fell in the civil war, republicans as well as nationalists.  It was not built as a monument to Franco. In fact he set up a commission that was supposed to ensure that an equal number from both sides were buried there . He also said that he did not want to be buried there himself, probably because this would lead to accusations that it was a monument to him. However the prime minister after Franco's death went against his wishes and he was buried there nonetheless.

Can you visit it? Yes, to go to mass which is held daily. Do they still put flowers on Franco's grave there daily? Yes they do. Do many people in Spain have a sense of pride when they think of it? Sure they do. Some people look back on the days of Franco's dictatorship as being the best in Spain.  Are others appalled at its existence and think it should be blown out of the side of the mountain? Undoubtably as during that time period there was no freedom of speech, religion, press, or right to protest. How should you, a non Spaniard and tourist see this site? Well that's up to you. But bear in mind that it's a very emotional thing for many people in Spain and some people will gladly point the way there (and maybe send you with flowers) and others will not speak to you again (as has happened to some) for even thinking of going. It's a place that is seen both with great pride and intense shame.

So consider this just a bit of background info on the place to help you make an informed decision. This is not to advocate any one choice but always to advocate intelligent and informed travel.