Visited the Fascist monument with Spanish family.  The valley itself is spectacular.  The character of the achitecture is the usual pseudo-classical Speer/Hitler stuff from this period.   Size replacing any quality or imagination . If anything the building detracts from that stunning landscape.  It is run by sympathetic Jesuits and visitors seem to be few.  A couple of sentimental Falangists looking old and embittered and a few angry victims of fascism who come to spit on Franco's grave.  Suppose that is sort of useful?  Its role in Spanish society may become of interest as the mass graves are finally being dug up and some Spaniards have stopped saying "don't mention . . ."