Set in the heart of the Kashmir Valley, the city is dominated by the life aquatic: Dal Lake and its twisting waterways, tree-lined Nagin Lake and the Jhelum River break up the urban area. Rent one of the wooden boats called shikaras for a daytime or twilight cruise into the local culture. On land, stroll through the terraced hillsides of the 400-year-old Mughal Gardens, created by Emperor Jehangir for his wife and shop for indigenous crafts like hand-woven silks and embroidered shawls.