A Tale of Two Resorts!
No I am not going to compare two resorts, not the two separate entities I have been privileged to visit in Cuba. This is solely a review of the Resort known as the Club Amigo (the entire resort not just one part). Let me preface this by saying I have no axe to grind, and no one to suck up to in writing this…I am merely stating my experiences, and those I saw others experience while I was there. Furthermore I was there at the lowest ebb of tourist season, or “off season”. My wife and I stayed from May 31st to June 14th.
We were confused by our arrival, because at the last minute the tour operator said we were to get out at the Atlantico (main) Lobby, whereas when boarding the bus he has said we were not to get off there but would be taken to a separate check in. I do not like ambiguity, so it was a bit of apprehension right from the start. The check in however was quick, and we had no problem in getting the attention of a bellman, (who when he saw our mountain of luggage proceeded to get a second person to help him). They quickly and expertly took us to our Villa room. It was night time so we were a little disoriented, but upon entering the room we were very happy to see it was large, adequately furnished, and had all the items we had arranged for with our travel agent. (Fridge for medications and extra pillows.)
We were a tad hungry and of course thirsting for our Rum! Off we trekked to the 24-hour snack bar, a mere 20 paces from our room. To say it was less than inspiring would be an understatement. There were perhaps 4 or 5 other guests seated, and there appeared to be at least that many staff there, yet no one came to offer us food or beverage. Frankly the woman, who appeared to be the waitress, was more interested in some American television show on the screen than with serving anyone. I went to the bar, and asked for a Pina Colada for my wife and Havana Club 7 year old on the rocks for me. I was curtly told in a laughing tone, that they did not serve Havana Club, at all. This was my first disappointment, as I had developed a great like for that drink on our previous visit. One expects a lack of choice when it comes to “International drinks” but to be denied one of Cuba’s own brands???? Our brochure said “a wide variety of domestic and international drinks”, which is a blatant lie. Unless one calls Chilean or Venezuelan wine a choice of international drinks there were NO international drinks available.
We tried to find out what food was available at this “snack bar” but the total lack of English by the cook made it impossible to understand anything other than “Hot Dog, Hamburger and French Fries” so we settled on the hamburger and fries. Then back to the room with a Bubba keg of beer each. When we got to the point of putting away passports, and other valuables we found we were unable to access the safe, even though we had (as our tour operator’s book said) arranged this at the time of booking. So off to the front desk, only to be told no way they could do anything until the next day. Again the lack of service was glaring and we were made to feel as though we were asking for something that was outrageous.
This set the tone for the first several days’…service was rarely given with a smile or even a word, and many staff seemed surly. One was aware too that the ‘guests’ were generally of a more annoying, tense, and obnoxious kind, rather than the easy going gentle atmosphere we remembered so fondly of our last trip. Making connection with our tour rep or public relations seemed hit or miss and I was getting very upset that our plans to spend a morning at sea memorializing my mother’s passing a year ago would not happen.
As the first week went on, we did come to enjoy the buffet (actually quite a nice selection of foods, all hot when it was supposed to be, or chilled when it was called for). Even nicer was the fact the buffet room was air-conditioned, something we really appreciated because in June, in Cuba, it is HOT, and HUMID! Sanctuary standards were as good as we had seen on our previous visit, and at no time were my wife or I ill at all because of food we ate. You MUST take into account, going to Cuba is not a culinary sensation, and food is basic, staple grub, meant to fill the belly and nourish one, not delight the palate and senses. We saw many people appalled at such things as Shrimp with the heads still on, or dishes like “Stewed Veal Tongue” (which was very good). To them I could only say, even at a 5 star you will see the same things….
Also as the week went on we found a core group of staff we could rely on. People who understood with a minimum of gesturing and aggravation, the point we were trying to make. We met the people who could get us people we needed for services or who could themselves provide the service. I think this is no different than going on a trip to any resort or hotel complex…one must find the people who run things, who have a finger on the pulse…if you don’t then you are endlessly stuck in a rut of trying to get things from people who cannot give them or do not understand your needs.
As our second week rolled around we had come to the opinion that we most likely would NOT come back to this resort…but we were settled in, and determined to enjoy ourselves. I will go into more details about rooms, food, entertainment etc later, but this is an overall view. Nearing the midway point of our second week we were more than comfortable, and actually were admiring things at the Amigo that the 5 star we had been at before did not have. We were used to the fact that there was not Irish Crème or Havana Club, and that some staff just were not going to be cheerful or even helpful so we avoided them. We found though that many staff members were very helpful, and if it were in their power at all to make things work they would tirelessly toil at it.
The second week was busier, with line-ups at the entrance to the Buffet. (I should note more than 40% of the hotel was shut down, and only one buffet was available, along with 2 snack bars and 2 a la carte restaurants. We found the many Cuban people at the resort (staying or visiting the beach) were some times an annoyance (they can be very rude and pushy at times, as can any other nationality, so another of our myths of the happy, helpful Cuban was shattered). Other Cubans were a joy to meet and converse with.
So to sum up the commentary: The resort does not put it’s best foot forward in the beginning, and while some of that might be false expectations on our part or even comparisons (unfair) to the 5 star we had been at before, much of it is real, there were a lot of things that could have been, and should have been better. However as one gets over that mental hurdle (some people do not go past that point sadly), there are gems of experiences and services that are wonderful. By the time we were sitting in the VIP lounge of the Holguin airport, my wife and I were looking at each other, sad to be leaving, and in mutual agreement that going back to the Club Amigo was not out of the question, actually it might be well worth the effort.
Now the various Categories people seem to want to know about.
Food: As stated above, going to Cuba for gastronomical euphoria is like going to a sporting even to worship God, it just is not congruent with reality. Food in Cuba is scarce, and we guests get far more in a day than the average Cuban gets in a week. The buffet was smaller than we expected, but…it had a good selection of items, and I never once left the room hungry or feeling I lacked. Some special items are the omelets and / or eggs cooked to order, always done as you want, the fresh squeezed orange juice is to die for, and any pork dish seems to be fantastic (I think Cubans are very comfortable cooking with pork). The down side of the food issue…as always A La Carte meals are not what you expect when ordering, they bear little resemblance to the menu descriptions LOL (that is not unique to the Amigo). Food seems salted more than we expect, so don’t be in a rush to add salt until you have tasted it!
Rooms: The Villa rooms are spacious, bright, and have industrial strength air conditioning! It was so nice to go into the room from the midday heat (which may feel hotter than 40C with the hunidex factor). Leaving the room felt like walking into a wall of heat, and our glasses would fog up! Certain Villa rooms have spectacular views of the Ocean, as well as are close to everything (ours was, room 2101). There are no face clothes, and no shampoo, etc… and the towels are fairly small and threadbare. The room itself was kept neat and clean by the maid. Down side, they are not as soundproofed as one would like, especially being on the ground floor. People above even just moving a chair or a bench create a lot of noise for those below…also people coming into the hotel late at night, (late check ins) are audible enough to wake even a moderately sound sleeper. Part of this is the fact the washroom has an open window, (screened and shuttered for privacy but open to sounds for sure).
Entertainment: We did not take in any of the “shows” that were held on the stage. We preferred the more personal, close, and very high quality entertainment in the Lobby bar. There were pianists on several nights, and they were very good, always playing music you could recognize and sway to. The biggest hit is Joel and his wife. They come in and set up a sound system, then attach Joel’s violin, and Joel performs. He plays a vast repertoire of modern and older rock and roll, as well as salsa, and other Latin hits. If you are not moved listening to this man play you are simply tone deaf and absolutely impossible to please.
Bars: Serving at the tables is hit or miss. Some staff jump to it and are quick to take orders (regardless of tips) while others could care less. I saw very few instances of people getting served out of order at the bar itself (no favoritism for heavy tippers). The biggest down side to the bars was the lack of some of what I would call “staple” booze like the Havana Club and Millwood (the Irish Crème substitute used at most other resorts). Those items are for sale in the gift shop but not available at the bars.
Beach / Pool: There are three beaches. The largest is known as the Guardalavaca “Public” beach (sort of a misnomer as all beaches in Cuba are public, open to all Cubans). We did not go there, at first just because we enjoyed the two smaller more ‘private’ beaches, then because we were being hounded by a very persistent black marketer. So persistent I approached Amigo Security to deal with him and was told the Amigo property ends at the wall, not the beach and they have no authority on the beach. On some days the two smaller beaches were too crowded, this is especially true on weekends when Cuban people from town come and enjoy the beach. (I am not knocking them for doing so, just stating a fact, which is they use the loungers, and take up a lot of the beach space…so it is best to plan on using the pools during the weekend).
Just a word of warning about the beach to the far right; it has the most spectacular coral for snorkeling I have ever seen but you must be aware of the condition of the tide. At low tide, you have to traverse very shallow grassy stretches, that can (for a person with even average build) make you actually crawl more than swim over those patches. I got out ok but had not noticed that I was swimming during the outgoing tide. You have to go out about 250 – 300 meters to see the spectacular coral knots and heads, with caves, and canyons… Once out there you can spend hours enjoying the view. It can be dangerous though. As the tide goes out those coral heads come dangerously close to the surface. Both myself, a guest of mine, and Rose got deposited onto a spine of coral by an errant wave when we were careless. At best it is a blow to the price and annoying at worst it can cause cuts, and scrapes (of which I suffered several <SIGH>). Coming back in at low tide was an adventure I would not like to repeat. Leopard crawling like an infantry soldier over grassy rock, and coral is not fun, and to top it off there are hundreds of urchins lurking in that grass. I was lucky to only suffer superficial cuts on my knees and elbows and no stings from those urchins. At high tide, you have no problem, even a very large man such as myself.
On the Middle beach (known as the Christopher Columbus beach because of his statue) it is a bit deeper, and easier to get out, but you have to edge over to the right to see the truly spectacular coral.
I cannot comment on the main beach as I have said before.
During mid-week the smaller beaches are at times totally deserted! What a wonderful feeling, to have a beach totally to oneself, amidst a resort full of people.
Last…and I thought long and hard about making this statement but I felt it must be said: If you are uneasy about prostitution, then the Amigo is not a place for you. It is a sad but very true fact that many men seem to go there simply with the intent of picking up a “rent a girl” for their use. More than a few (over a dozen) we saw with our own eyes come alone, yet by the second or third day they would have a very young Cuban lady on their arm (all checked in with the proper band in place as a resort guest). You can chose to ignore it, but you cannot fail to notice it. Many people we met had similar comments about it, and there were various levels of shock, concern and moral outrage. I am pretty open minded, but I would prefer not to be sharing a resort with sex trade workers. It is as blunt as that. I acknowledge that it is a vice as old as man and woman, but it just is annoying to see it happening in front of your face while on vacation.
Overall we are quite likely to go back. Even with much of the resort shut down, we found plenty to do. We enjoyed the food, the drinks, and many of the staff. We actually feel closer to some of the staff there, than we did at the much bigger, 5 star Playa Pesquero. One cannot and should not compare two resorts, because one will have things the other does not. However, the Amigo is a resort with a bit of a split personality. On the one hand, jovial and family like, on the other, tired, world weary and a bit sleazy. I think some of that simply stems from having a large town immediately on the doorstep, forcing a much large interaction of tourists with locals…it seems to breed a sort of “on the make” mentality for some of those Cubans who up to now we thought of as simply nice, friendly and happy folk.
This review is the subjective opinion of a TripAdvisor member and not of TripAdvisor LLC.