We choose this lodge as a mid-range establishment. It was very good and we were pleased with our five night stay. It is a boat ride across the white and black rivers from Manaus and then a couple of hours by car along mostly paved roads. A final short boat trip gets you to the lodge itself. We have a superior room that overlooks the slope down to the Tupana River, but rooms at the back facing the jungle did not have a good view. There is a large expanse of cleared area before you get to the jungle that gives these rooms a bleaker view. They also do not have there own patios although there are places to rest elsewhere in the lodge. There was one villa operating while we were there, the other one seemed to have been damaged by fire. The villa was surrounded by trees and has pleasant jungle views.
It is not an area rich in wild life so don’t expect animals every where. However, we did see dolphins swimming and jumping, caught and handled caimans, caught and ate piranha and saw many species of birds. On the afternoon of a whole day trip for just the two of us, we caught peacock bass and something else, both of which appeared cooked the following day!
Food was very good. In one 24 hour period with seven guests we were given:
Breakfast: Manioc pancakes, boiled yam root, frankfurters in a vegetable sauce, scrambled egg, cake, sweet cakes, cheese balls, sliced meats and cheese, juice, two types of fruit and coffee.
Lunch: Beef stew, bean stew, fried chicken, cheesy potatoes, salad, fruit and a green coloured dessert (not sure what it was but it was nice).
Dinner: Fried fish, chicken and cheese fricassee, cheese and manioc dish, soup, salads, water melon and coconut tart
The selection went down when the other five guests left but we never felt we did not have a good choice of dishes at each meal (two nights there as a couple only). The food is not high class dining; it is cooked by staff who live in the Amazon and work for the lodge, but it was wholesome, tasty and well presented.
It is tremendous fun to go through the Amazon with the Tupana flooding the jungle floor. We were there in September and the water level was still high but falling so there were plenty of short-cuts from across the bends in the river and flooded lakes. A variety of canoes were used depending on the trip. The lodge has kayaks that you can use and you can also swim safely in the river.
Night out in the jungle was fun. It is a short trek from the lodge, a night walk through the jungle and a BBQ dinner. Hammocks are slung on frames under a canvas roof. While we were there it collapsed which sounds awful but was actually great fun and we ended up slinging the hammocks between trees.
All the various activities were as described. The guide was not a natural historian and although he knew the animal and plant species and their habits, was no expert. However, he was very keen on fishing and the peacock bass afternoon was very enjoyable.
The only problem was the car trip back to the Amazon. Going to the lodge we travelled in a newish air conditioned pick-up driven carefully. Coming back was a trip from hell. The car was old and clearly not well maintained; a loud clunking noise came from the rear axle which had the driver out inspecting it and us, the passengers, rearranged to keep the most weight off one side. He drove like a maniac in the centre of the road to avoid the potholes at the side, but never gave way to oncoming traffic, forcing them to pull right over to their side to avoid us. He got into a race with another car that overtook us, driving too fast and dangerously. If we had been in a town and if I could speak Portuguese, we would have left him and found an alternative.
So, the lodge itself is very good Amazon experience but if you are thinking of booking it make sure that the owner Maria, who you will deal with, provides better transport.
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- Also Known As:
- Amazon Tupana Hotel Amazon River
- Amazon Tupana Lodge Brazil/AM