Pampa Hermosa is in a beautiful situation at the bottom of a steep-sided, forest-mantled valley beside the rapids of a river and with its own ‘beach’. Except for the sound of the river it is quiet and peaceful. Access from Lima to San Ramon involves a spectacular 8.5 hour trip over the Andes by comfortable bus (book your numbered seat well in advance). It turns out the best way to maximise your time at Pampa Hermosa is to go one way at night (the bus has reclining beds on the lower deck) and the other way by day (get a seat on the top deck to enjoy the views).
The accommodation is simple but adequate with (hydro)electricity, gas-heated showers and flush toilets. Each cabin has its own balcony. The food, three hot meals a day, is generous and based on local supplies of fruit and vegetables. I didn’t drink the tap water (I brought my own bottled water) but all water used in cooking is pre-boiled. I had no problems. Similarly, there are no annoying or biting insects to contend with. You just need to keep your cabin closed up after dark to keep out moths etc.
Because the daily charge includes full-board and a guide it is good value but I thought that the charge for the essential 4x4 transport to bring me 24 km (1.5 hours) up the valley from San Ramon was fairly expensive.
I visited Pampa Hermosa in the Spring to see the cloud-forest butterflies. I was not disappointed, they were stunning. I also saw birds, lots of vegetation, a few flowers, heard wild boar and smelt monkeys. The hiking trails are somewhat limited in scope although I didn’t have time to attempt the longest walk up to a village near the head of the valley. The friendly and accommodating staff speak only Spanish and it was difficult making conversation when the English-speaking owners were away. If you don’t speak Spanish take a good phrase book, plus some other books to read in the evenings or write your own if you have the time. It’s a perfect hideaway.
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- Also Known As:
- Pampa Hermosa Peru/San Ramon