At a million a piece to do a tour we decided to go on our own. Rented a scooter from long hotel in Dong Hoi. They gave us a map to get to Son Trach / phong nha. The town is set up for tour groups. Our hotel (Song Son Phong Nha) fed a (loud) group of 20 people at 6 am but said no to us when we came for breakfast at 8. We found 2 places to eat along the main strip and more near the market. Got a map for the national park from Jungle Bar. Phong Nha cave is neat. Paradise cave is much better. The "Eco" trail near paradise was upsetting. We visited on Sunday afternoon and saw massive amounts of litter (styrofoam, food bits, and beer cans) all over, along with drunk locals yelling "hello" at us and laughing. Maybe it's a Sunday thing? Overall it's a beautiful place to visit though.
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