We just had two weeks in glorious New Mexico, one of these weeks we stayed at the Rosewood Inn of the Anasazi. From the moment we stepped into the lobby we were seeped within the rich tradition of Native American, Spanish and Mexican influences. From the hand spun navaho rugs to the authentic stone and wood floors and the vidas ceilings, this adobe building (used to be a prison I think) exudes warmth and understated charm. Singer Jesus, and his spanish guitar, added a romantic touch to the restaurant in the evenings. This hotel doesn't feel at all touristy and I hope they keep it this way. The staff are friendly and on the ball but aren't in your face with, "Your welcome" and "Have a nice day" at every turn, but rather move to a more authentic rhythm of this most unique city. The atmosphere is laid back country town but with just the right amount of sophistication. The concierge's (Bob and Gloria) provided more than just knowledge of the area but seemed to be attuned at a much deeper level with the region, the people and the customs and we enjoyed fascinating conversations with them in the wonderful large, cool library with it's endless supply of delicious house-baked cookies and fresh melon water. During our time in Santa Fe we ate at most of the top restaurants including 'Geronimo's' (the pork chop was dry- but don't be surprised to find yourself sitting next to Robert Redford, if that's any compensation!), La Bouche (the profiteroles had a great chocolate sauce but the choux pastry was like cardboard and tasteless and sin of all sins they were filled with ice-cream instead of fresh, unsweetened cream), Pascales (the halibut had a sour taste, like it had been sprayed with 'smoke flavour') and 'Coyote Grill' which was great, but we enjoyed the food at the Anasazi the best, especially the 'Watermelon and avocado gaspacho', and the Ahi Tuna Taco's, and the chef's olive oil cake is perfect. We needed to stay an extra night and even though it was Indian Market weekend and the hotel was full, they put us up in a room which is a 'work in progress' model for the hotel's renovation this spring. It was larger than the traditional rooms, has more modern fittings and the bed was lower (apparently some of the older guests have trouble climbing on and off the traditional high beds - although one guest remarked to us his kids loved the high beds because they could play underneath them). At night we slept with the shutters wide open breathing in the New Mexican summer night air which has a velvet quality like nowhere else. Santa Fe is a unique and gorgeous place, the traffic here must be the most polite on the planet (they stop half way down the road to let you cross) and in our two weeks didn't hear one car horn. If you do get to visit make sure you go to the open air Opera House, one of the few places on earth where the show has to compete with the magnificent desert sunsets and lightning displays. Oh, and if you do don't be surprised if Shirley McClaine happens to sit down beside you!