Back again to Pane e Salute for our third or fourth visit, on one of our annual Vermont swings, and dinner was better than ever. Our favorite restaurant in Italy (La Ruota, in Gallarate near Mila) would find the pizza (my wife's main dish) at Pane e Salute exemplary. My local roast-chicken entree was superb, backed up with a good zucchini-and-greens mix, and the wine -- a surprisingly complex and crisp Malvasia -- was a perfect match. Service continues to be friendly and expert (and, a bit quicker than I recall from our first visit), and while we did not venture upon dessert the espresso rounded off a fine evening. It is a small place (22 or so covers) and you may need to call early to be sure of a table, but in our view, don't miss it --
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