Okay, lesson 1: Hawaii is a state. Hawaii is also one of several islands composing that state, but most people just refer to it as "the big island". Also, the western side of the island, somewhat below the lower half dividing line, has the villages of Kona, and Kailua. You'll hear them called by seperate and combined names, but it's pretty much one area.
I love the big island, even more than Kaua'i...(confession, I haven't been to Maui or Moloka'i...and tv shows me freeways and gridlock on Oahu.)
There are ultra plush resorts on the west/northwest....the 4 seasons for example starts at $800 a night per their website.
There are many, many, inexpensive alternatives for three star stays, with prices of $85 to less than $200 per night for a one bedroom condo, on the beach, and they are nice. Google ATR properties or Abbey properties for condo rentals, especially on Ali'i drive. This street runs from the old steamer pier down the coast to it's end, not far past the Sheraton. Be sure and check out the Ali'i Drive market, and also the Keahou Shopping Center at the south end of Ali'i Drive...reason....great coffee shops, and little hole in the wall restaurants, with great prices, and a cinema, and if needed an urgent care center. (Nice to know) Also in the center, a Longs Pharmacy....apparently a California chain...but they also have an impressive variety of liquor and a few food staples.
When I was there in December about 2 years ago, the Kona scene looked like Madi Gras or 6th street in Austin. In July of a recession year, it more resembled a ghost town, so if mid to upper 80's low season is ok for you, you'll have the place to yourself. The Kona Inn restaurant is all thats left of a once fashionable hotel...the restaurant is rated highly but pricey. Go in the lobby and at least look at the floor. It's Brazilian cherry, brought by steamship for the hotels 1926 construction.
Previously fantastic snorkling in Kealakekua Bay was very poor. Generally the snorkling across the island is fantastic with many spots where you can just walk into the water. There are various boats, kayaks and so forth, who will take you out for snorkling, manta ray or whale watching or deep sea fishing.
About beaches: ALL beaches in all Hawaii are by law allowed public access. Apparently many a cozy deal has been struck by the wealthy resorts to build next to them, so you may have to drive up to said resorts rent a cop at the little building in front and ask/demand access, but I've never been refused. They will not however, volunteer info. The Four Seasons, in fact, north of Kona, doesn't even have it's name out front, and the guard will just ask you what you want. Review of my $200 meal for 2 at Four Seasons follows: Good, but not great food, and a not as crisp as it should have been Caesar salad (for $19). Service good, but not great.
Grounds very impressive, but not nearly as much as some of the condo's I've stayed at in Kaua'i. Conclusion: If you have tons of money, go there, if not I highly recommed a Hawaiian Rainbow (lot of multihued liquer and juices) at Huggo's on the Rocks (next to Huggo's).....decent food, and drinks at a tiny fraction of the 4 Seasons, and you're next to the bay and sunsets are free.
A really nice day is first up hwy 11 to Kona coffee country. Try stopping at the little octagonal shop at Bayview coffee....real 100% Kona is sold by many of the growers....beware on down the line, as you go south the coffee ain't that great. Just down the road stop for a real Hawaiian shave ice at the ranch store...much better shave ices when the syrup is refrigerated ! Keep going and see the 100 year old wooden painted church, and further to a T in the road and go right to "the place of refuge" for Hawaiian history and basking turtles....don't be an idiot and touch the turtles please !
A nice day is the southern route to Volcano Nat'l park and Hilo and the Botanical gardens. You can fly to Hilo from the mainland but you have to go through Honolulu....while there are direct flights to Kona.
North is Parker ranch and horseback riding if you wish.
Lots and lots of beautiful beaches...gold, black and even green sand. Read your guidebooks for all the locations.
And in my opinion, the Mexican place on the second story, next to the volleyball courts, is great....Calleys (?) Sorry, but it's the only Mexican on the second story next to....well you get it.
Last, since I've done this twice now, having forgotten the place after my first trip, a special word on Quinns Almost by the Sea.....
here's the word...FORGET IT (ok, two words). I don't care what Zagat says or any of the guidebooks...I've had salads, sandwiches and tasted their burgers....GO ELSEWHERE !
A last tip: While there are KTR markets, Safeways, etc., if you have a kitchen, stop at the COSTCO, which in on the left, as you drive south to Kona, from the airport...well worth stocking up there. Food in Hawaii is expensive.
And you might consider US Air to fly there....at this time (July 09), they go, at least from Austin, to Phoenix and then directly to Kona.....a two stop flight is so much better than a 3 and any way you can avoid LAX (Los Angeles) with it's ancient system of seperate terminals with connecting busses and having to go through security AGAIN.
Aloha and best of times to you.



