Yes, its a drive and a hike regardless, so buck up, and enjoy. Its Paradise! Pack it in haul it out. No bathrooms or showers, or noisy highways or golf course hotels to clutter up, and funk up this place made by the gods.
I've walked it alone, and with young kids from the state park beach. Not much shade on the trail, yes there is a trail. I've driven it from the highway.. again this is lava rock, and coral made road, not for the usual paved road drivers. Must have experience to go 4x4. Or just not care of you get dings & scratches, and yes that oil pan.
The beach is epic. Shade, ocean made tide pool for kids, places to nap, surf, pick nick under a tree.. seasonal whale watch.. and year round dolphins come cruzing by.
If you're a trouper, and so is the family. Than enjoy! Take only photos and leave only foot prints, Hawaii stays beautiful we all help keep it like that! Aloha