I've just returned from a wonderful one week holiday in Kilifi Bay Beach Resort with my two kids. I can't understand why it has received any bad reviews.
The hotel is lovely, as are the staff who run it.
The water supply to the shower/basins was a somewhat lacking but Kenya is suffering from a terrible drought (some areas have been without rain for over 3 years) with crops failing, people going hungry, women and children having to walk miles to the nearest well/clean water supply, and infant mortality, as a direct consequence of the drought, on the up. As the water shortage is completely beyond the control of the hotel management we felt the lack of water to the showers was quite acceptable.
We experienced only one power cut during our stay, and that only lasted for about an hour. The hotel staff was very efficient lighting candles and lamps, and we had been provided with candles and matches in our room. We asked “Mr Tom” the manager when we might expect power to be resumed – he had spoken with the power company and they had told him about an hour. As it turned out, this was accurate. The power cut was beyond the control of the hotel management and we felt they handled the situation well.
I didn’t see any dangerous electrical cabling myself. Running electrical cabling directly from a socket may look quaint but in principle should be safe enough, if it has been wired correctly.
Btw – for those of you who don’t already know, the power sockets in Kenya are the same as ours here in the UK. So, you can take out hairdryers, battery re-chargers etc and they will work fine without an adaptor.
During the spare time we had at the hotel my kids practically lived in the larger of the two pools. The hotel requires that children are supervised in the pool at all times – so I spent a fair amount of time in the water myself. I can confirm that the water was clean – there was no debris floating in it and a member of staff frequently took a pool net around the pool. The water was a little cloudy but we all swallowed copious amounts of it in our time swimming and splashing about – and none of us suffered from any stomach upsets. We didn’t swim in the smaller pool so I can’t comment on that.
There is a cottage next to the main pool which provides pool towels to guests. You sign them out and sign them in when you return them. I’m not sure if the hotel allows them to be taken on to the beach but as they are signed out I guess they don’t really mind (hakuna matata) – as long as they come back safely. So – you shouldn’t need to pack towels.
There were several pool activities scheduled every day – aqua-cize, water polo, beach volleyball. I joined in the aqua-cize once … not really my cup of tea but quite fun. The staff were wonderful with my kids who were far more keen to join in the activities – they really took good care of them and made sure they enjoyed themselves (giving them lots of help and encouragement in the water polo matches). The staff try to recruit guests for these activities but don’t pressure you if you are unwilling. There was also entertainment laid on every night – we had local dancers, acrobats/jugglers, a reptile/snake display etc. Very good.
The beach and sea are stunning. There are a few “traders” on the beach who may try to sell you their wares but I was only hassled once in the 3 or 4 trips I made onto the beach, so not a major irritation. I think the hotel does a pretty good job patrolling the beach and keeping the traders clear of their frontage.
I was stung twice by jellyfish. Of course, the presence of
"unfriendly" jellyfish is a risk you run swimming off the coast of many countries - again, not something that can be controlled by the hotel. If you are unfortunate enough to suffer the same fate there’s no need to panic. I was assured by the security guard
patrolling the beach that the jellyfish are not dangerous. The one that stung me was quite small; clear jelly but with bright blue “beads” along its tentacles. It felt like a nettle sting and had completely worn off after about an hour. The second time I was stung my arms ached a little, but this too only lasted a short while. My kids who were swimming with me were not stung at all.
If you are wading in the sea while the tide is out I would advise wearing something on your feet. There are some prickly little customers (urchins) lurking under some of the coral. [One guest I got chatting to (ex-army) told me the best way to treat a sea urchin wound is to cover it with a poultice of toothpaste! Fortunately I didn’t have to try this remedy out myself]. However, when the tide is high it comes past the coral reef and well up the sand, so you can swim safely without needing to wear any beach shoes. The
first time I went to swim at high tide I took my shoes and left them under the steps of the beach bar. The tide came right up to the bar. I had completely forgotten about my shoes. As I made my way back up to the cottages they had disappeared and I figured they had been swept out to sea. However, as I walked through the beach bar (which was open every time I passed through and serving chilled drinks … can I take the opportunity to thoroughly recommend “Stoney Tangawesi” which is a little like Ginger Beer, but much nicer?) there were my shoes, safely stashed behind the bar. The
security guard had spotted them and moved them to safety.
The hotel doesn’t operate a flag system for the beach. I don’t know how dangerous the tides actually get but I guess it could be useful to have a visible warning. However, there always appeared to be a security guard patrolling down on the beach/around the bar and he seemed to be knowledgeable. If you’re unsure if it’s safe or not I reckon he’s the man to ask!
On the subject of bars … as I mentioned … the beach bar was open every time I went down to the beach and on several other occasions the kids popped in there as it seemed to have a good supply of their favourite tipple - blackcurrant Fanta. The pool bar was also open and fully stocked at least until 6pm and the bar up by reception was open from around 6pm onwards (certainly until after the evening’s entertainment). So there was always a bar open and the only problem we encountered was we drank their Stoney supply dry! However, they were restocked by the next day.
The food throughout the week was delicious and varied. The main restaurant serves a buffet breakfast, lunch and dinner. Always plenty of fresh fruit (and no problem with flies when we were there). The cooked breakfasts are excellent but my favourite were the freshly made pancakes, done to order. The lunch and dinner menus always offered soups (their clear soups are very good indeed), pasta and/or rice dishes, vegetable dishes, meat dishes, and
salads (wonderfully tasty tomatoes). We tried pretty much most of what was on offer and none of us have suffered any stomach upsets.
We went on several day excursions and ordered packed lunches from the
kitchen. These were always ready waiting for us at reception. They weren’t very exciting but they were quite adequate.
On the morning we left we had our wake up call at 3:00am, breakfast in the restaurant at 3:30am and pick up at 4:00am. We were only expecting a cuppa and perhaps a pastry or two, but no! the full cooked breakfast was laid on, plus pastries, fresh fruit, cereals, toast, and my favourite – the pancakes! All for the 10 or so guests who were leaving that morning. Incredible.
There was a tv located in the games room which I was very glad my children never seemed to notice! The tv was never switched on (hurray! Thank heavens for small mercies … having travelled out to such a beautiful and interesting country I would have been very disappointed if they had remained in couch potato mode) so I can’t vouch for how well it functioned. There was a functioning tv at the pool bar - several guests gathered there to watch the 6 nations rugby.
Our cottage was kept thoroughly clean with fresh linen/towels every day. Infact we did suggest that the hotel should operate a system like most European/American hotels – that towels left on the floor are to go to the laundry, but otherwise they should be left alone. In a country that is suffering through such a severe drought it would seem prudent to adopt any practice that helps minimize water consumption. A group of cottages is allocated to one member of staff, so you get the same person every day. Quite nice as they are very friendly and you can build up a rapport with them and they can tell you a fair amount about the local area.
My cottage had one king size double bed, one single bed (in a little
“annexe” accessed via an internal door, with its own sink, cupboards and desk) and one inside day bed. There was a day bed outside on the veranda too. If the hotel can rig up a mozzy net above the indoor day bed I’d say there was plenty of room to accommodate two adults and two kids (infact I didn’t see any mozzys at Kilifi – so you may not even require the mozzy net).
My parents were also staying at Kilifi Bay Beach Resort during the week of 10th – 18th Feb. They are very well travelled and would never accept substandard accommodation. My father in particular is very thorough when it comes to researching, planning and organizing trips abroad. This is their third trip to Kilifi Bay Beach Resort. I think this speaks volumes…
Although not strictly part of my review of the resort I thought it might be useful to include a brief description of the excursions we made during our week there (certainly the resort is well located for accessing several interesting places):
1/ Two day/One night safari to Tsavo East. We travelled to Buchuma Gate (about 3 hours drive). We managed to fit in three game drives (one from Buchuma Gate to Voi Safari Lodge – a drive of about 2.5 hours, one evening drive and one early morning drive. Most morning drives leave the lodge at 6:30am. I recommend leaving at 6:15am – if you’re first out, as we were, you can get to the game before anyone has disturbed them. By about 6:25am our vehicle was surrounded by 15 lions – not aggressive (well, if you stay in the vehicle anyway) but very curious about us! We spotted lion, elephant, cape buffalo, gazelle, buck, loads of birds, dik-dik, genet cat, and a honey
badger. No leopard or cheetah (although they are there) and no rhino (there’s only one left after the poachers killed the rest). We exited Tsavo through Voi Gate and drove back towards Mombassa and visited…
2/ Haller Park. Beautifully restored wildlife park (was a cement works!). Not as “real” as safari but the animals are in pretty large enclosures rather than little cages and you walk along a cleverly landscaped trail. Worth a visit even if just to meet Owen and Mzee (a baby hippo washed out into the Indian Ocean last year; having lost his parents they shipped Owen to Haller Park where he immediately struck up a close friendship with Mzee, a giant tortoise. They genuinely seem to care about eachother and can be
seen nuzzled up to together and going for walks together. Owen can be quite protective of Mzee, who was bigger than Owen when he first arrived!) Quite spectacular watching the crocs being fed!
3/ Malindi. We drove up the coast to Malindi and took a glass bottomed boat out to the coral reef. Take some bread with you as you can swim with the fish at the reef – you can barely see the water for the beautiful multi coloured fish and they will eat straight from your hand. The kids were entranced. We also spent about 40 minutes on our own perfect desert island – just pure white sand surrounded by turquoise sea. Bliss. We tied this in with a trip to…
4/ Gede (Gedi?) – an ancient ruined “ghost” city. The city was abandoned over a very short space of time, I think around the 17th Century. This is no boring pile of rubble – plenty of nooks and crannies and passageways and walls, all of which you can wander around freely. Watch out for the “bottomless” wells – no safety guards like we’d expect in the UK. There is another ruined city on the outskirts of Kilifi (Mnarani) – it is far less extensive as they have no funding to excavate, but it is still worth a visit
as it is in a beautiful location with a fantastic view over the inlet at Breeze Point. Also has the biggest baobab I’ve ever seen.
5/ also tied in Malindi with the Snake & Crocodile Farm near Siversands Beach / Driftwood Club. Surprisingly good. Looks unimpressive when you arrive but they have a good collection of snakes (you can handle the python … if you want) and have hundreds of crocs, from little tiddlers to great big killers (one named George Bush!). They also have a charming 102 year old giant tortoise called Maria. She has a mind of her own and is quite clear about who is supposed to get all the attention if you enter her enclosure. She will follow you relentlessly until you give her a good scratch under her chin.
6/ We travelled to Kachororoni to visit the children we sponsor through Plan International. Drove through some amazing countryside and was quite an adventure bouncing along tracks that barely qualified as tracks! We were taken out by Plan International staff in their own vehicle (free of charge) – they are keen to show you the projects they are working on in the areas they are assisting.
Well, wherever you end up on holiday I hope it is wonderful!