I have mixed feelings after my recent stay at Naniboujou. I love the idea of the old private club right on the lake, but something is missing. Many of the things that make the lodge so attractive are also the same things that detract --like the location. It's great that it's remote, but plan ahead because if you get up there it's a long haul back to town. We picked it because we wanted something really special and it just wasn't.
What I love is:
1. The view--it's vast and unobstructed. If you love grabbing a blanket in the Fall and sitting in an Adirondack chair while you stare at a magnificent body of water--this is the spot.
2.) The dining room--it's historic, it's interesting, it's worth stopping and checking out.
What I didn't love so much:
1.) The guest rooms--we were fortunate to have a room on the upper level with a partial lake view. However, Naniboujou is a natural stop for tourists and there is a fairly steady stream of people stopping by and walking out to the beach. If you want to get the breeze (rooms don't have air conditioning), you have to leave the blinds open. From what I could see, none of the room had really good views of the lake--a shame. Unfortunately, they don't make it easy for you to see the lake from your room--our best view was sitting on the toilet in the bathroom with the door open. In short, the rooms aren't comfortable, the decorating is inconsistent with the rest of the lodge (which is such a pity), and the views aren't what you'd expect.
2.) Lack of owner presence--It's expected that a lodge on the National Register should have people on site playing host/hostess. It's the difference between a corporate chain hotel and a grand experience. The little touches are missing.
The front desk staff was young, had limited local knowledge, and seemed generally indifferent. However, when asked, she performed tasks with a smile so perhaps it's just that she's young and doesn't quite "get it" yet.
3.) As I mentioned, quick trips into town aren't going to happen. Make sure that you stop at the visitor center in Grand Marais to pick up hiking maps, make a last trip to the convenience store or liquor store, and be sure to pick up a good beach blanket--you'll want it to sit on the rock beach or for those cool nights.
NOTE: I think it's important that people know there is no alcohol there. I don't want to debate the pro's and cons of not having a liquor license (perhaps it's not even possible for them), but the idea of not being able to enjoy a glass of wine with dinner or have a happy hour drink is simply ridiculous. My husband and I felt like kids in high school making cocktails in our room. So, you might want to bring a cooler and stop at the liquor store on the way. Same goes for food--make sure you bring snacks or you'll be driving to Grand Marais every day like we did. After hiking all day you'll want some food.
I guess I wrote so much because I really believe in the concept of Naniboujou. Naniboujou was never fully built-out and its personality never really developed. That is reflected is the mixed feelings that we had--there's no sense of community (even though many people are repeat customers) like you get at other North Shore lodges and it's just flat. For the full North Shore experience there are many smaller, less expensive places with equally beautiful stone beaches. You need to see the fireplace and the dining room, but you don't have to stay there to enjoy the beach.







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