We stayed just one night in an executive suite on Saturday, March 24 at a special rate of $280. Check in was a bit of a disappointment - the lone staffer at the front desk was engaged in an extended phone call that appeared to be personal, and when he finally deigned to speak to me he was brusque and haughty. No smiles, no welcome, and he acted as though my checking in was a huge inconvenience to him.

The good:

Our suite was lovely, nicely decorated and well-appointed, although some of the furniture was a bit worn. The bathroom was huge, luxurious and had all the amenities you could want except for a warming lamp. Well worth the extra $80 or so.

We visited the lobby bar, La Bourse, twice, and it was just outstanding - great food, nice wine by the glass selection, and very helpful and courteous staff. Possibly the best fried calamari I've ever had. Room service breakfast was entirely screwed up but quickly fixed and with many sincere apologies, so they get a pass on that.

The truly bad:

At checkout, waiting for my car from the valet, I was almost run over in the tiny, jammed portico by another Sofitel guest in a red auto. Pedestrians on 17th street in general were having to dodge cars of other guests as they tried to depart the property, because the valets parked and left 6 cars there, completely blocking the entire exit. The valets were literally screaming at each other, and the bell captain was yelling at all of them, telling them to "Shut up" and "listen to me, stop talking." The valet who retrieved my car snatched my wife's tip from her hand and promised to help back me out, but then dashed off with a smirk and I saw him smoking a cigarette. I had to fend for myself, was almost hit by another guest, almost hit a third car myself, all while the staff stood and screamed at each other. This after waiting 20 minutes for my car and paying $30 for the privelege.

I traded several emails with the hotel GM about this, and his responses were totally "form letter" (literally) - he didn't mention my problems but just said the usual nonsense that he was sorry that MY expectations weren't met and he was sorry I "felt that way." This is the classic avoidance attitude - the manager says the problem is not the terrible service but the way I FELT ABOUT IT. He finally called me and issued a somewhat lukewarm apology, admitted that they have this dangerous circus in their portico every week, and tried to peruade me that the rude staffer at the front desk is really a great guy. I am not buying any of it.