This major American landmark has reopened after being closed for four years following September 11, and it's still worth a visit. Be prepared, though, to go through lots of bureaucratic hurdles including two trips through tighter-than-airport security. I understand why it's important to protect the statue from attack, but if I were a little more cynical I'd say that the new security measures are so extreme that they make a mockery of the ideal of liberty the statue is meant to honor. My visit took four hours without a stop at Ellis Island. I tried to give all the details of my visit in this review, not because I love to whine but so other visitors can be prepared for every possible hurdle.

I arrived at Battery Park at 8 am, just off an overnight train, and I was one of the first in line for the gates to open at Castle Clinton, where ferry tickets are sold. I meant to book my ferry ticket in advance, but I didn't realize that the latest I could do so was four days before I planned to visit. Because I had arrived so early I didn't have to wait in a long line once the castle opened, but if I'd booked ahead I could have gone to the will-call window for even less of a wait. Please also note that the National Park Service requires a free timed pass for admission to the statue. These passes are distributed by the ferry operator and can be reserved at the same time as the ferry ticket. I was able to get a pass for the statue when I bought my ferry ticket, but apparently this isn't always guaranteed, so beware. More about the passes below. The ferry makes a circuit from Battery Park to the Statue of Liberty to Ellis Island and back to Battery Park.

After buying my ticket I waited half an hour (in the freezing cold) to be let into the shed to wait for the ferry, then another half hour to go through pre-boarding security. For this step we were required to remove everything: shoes, jackets, watches, belts, and everything in our pockets, put it through a scanner, and walk through a metal detector. Any bags we were carrying were searched. After that we were allowed to board the waiting ferry, the first of the day (at other times there may be a wait). The ferry ride itself was pleasant enough except for certain photo-crazed tourists rushing around the top deck, shoving anyone and everyone out of their way. At times I thought they might tip the ferry over, the way they massed on one side and then the other as we circled the island. The whole experience gave me a new appreciation for the plight of the "huddled masses yearning to breathe free". I even had my scarf wrapped around my head to protect me from the cold, in true old-country style.

Once on the island, I went through another, tighter round of security to get into the statue. This part was a little confusing: my timed pass gave me access to the statue from 8:30 to 9:30 in the morning, but the ferry didn't even arrive until 9:30. I assume they're still working the glitches out of the ticket system. Before getting into the security line, we were required to put everything except for cameras and small bags into lockers with fingerprint scanners. No food or water is allowed in the security check--those who had food or water with them were sent out of line to the lockers. The lockers cost $1. The machines supposedly took $1 and $5 bills (no coins), but it wouldn't accept my $5 bill or the one $1 bill I had with me. At this point I almost gave up, but instead I went to the cafe and bought a cup of terrible tea that tasted like coffee grounds, which gave me a few more $1 bills to try in the lockers. Luckily for me one of them worked and it was on to the security line. By this time it was nearly 10:00, but the security ladies still let me through (thank you!). At this check again we were required to remove everything and place it on a scanner. We walked through air-puffer machines that presumably checked for explosives.

Once we made it through that, we had more freedom. A Park Service ranger conducted a tour but made it clear that we didn't have to stick with the tour and could go through the exhibit on our own and on to the elevator. Another note on the passes here: there are supposedly two levels of passes, Promenade and Observatory, but the rangers operating the elevator didn't make any distinction and took us all to the observation deck. No visitors are allowed to climb the steps into the statue's crown anymore.

The ground floor holds the statue's original torch, an impressive stained-glass confection. After that there are some interesting museum exhibits on the ideas behind the gift of the statue and on the construction process, in France and in America. Finally, the elevator takes you up to the observation level for what is still a very nice view.

The Statue of Liberty is a major American landmark that is still well worth visiting. Just make sure to be prepared with reservations made at least four days in advance, comfortable shoes for waiting in line and plenty of dollar bills.