I really like this place. The falls themselves are quite impressive (OK not like Niagra, but you would not want to be going over these in a boat, let me tell you). When the water is high after a lot of rain, you cannot believe how powerful this river is and it makes you pause to think of what Native Americans or Colonialists thought about it. The park has really nice observation decks on the Virginia side that give you a full view of the falls and some of the more spectacular chutes through which the water races. There are trails that take you back in the woods and down to the river. You may see people sitting on the rocks above the river, but beware, this is a highly dangerous and fast moving river that carries a lot of debris and snags below the surface and quite a few people drown every year in this area because they think they can handle it. Don't you believe it. This river is a monster. Just watch it from the shore or the paths above it. Do not let the temptation to wade into it or jump into it from the cliffs get you. Back in the woods you can see remains of the old canal that George Washington invested in to get goods from Pennsylvania to DC and vice versa. There is also a great picnicking spot with lots of picnic tables and grills. I commonly see big family gatherings here on the weekends. A very mellow place and really nice and fast if you want to just get out of town and be surrounded by nature, but not be too isolated. The visitor center is not much to speak about, but the small kids might like it and there are bathrooms there.
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