Lana'i is not the conventional Hawai'i - only thirty miles of paved road and no traffic lights because so little traffic, no condos, no McDonald's, just 2,000 people living in a small town in modest homes with tin roofs built years ago for the pineapple workers when Lana'i produced most of the world's pineapples. No more pineapples. Lana'i is like going back to the 1930's. BUT - it has two five-star hotels, both Four Seasons, the Manele Bay on the beach and the Lodge at Koele up in the hills on the edge of the pine forest. I stayed at the Lodge and enjoyed the superb service for which Four Seasons hotels are famous. What could be better than breakfast brought up by room service and served on one's balcony overlooking beautiful gardens and the edge of the pine forest - fresh papaya, eggs benedict, and fresh croissants. The hotel is built like an English country house with The Great Hall as the centerpiece - a baronial hall with a huge stone fireplace at either end and two enormous chandeliers, where people gather for drinks, pupu, and conversation. Behind the hotel are the gardens, including the orchid garden, and places to engage in such genteel activities at lawn bowling and croquet. There are two excellent restaurants.. A shuttle bus leaves each hotel every half hour for the other hotel and guests can use the facilities of both. For someone who wants to enjoy complete relaxation in peace and quiet and beauty with superb service the Lodge at Koele can't be beat.