We were visiting my sister in Poultney, Vt., where she is in the process of starting up a bed and breakfast. She took us to her favorite restaurant in this sleepy college town. What a surprise! Sophisticated cooking, flawless, but friendly and unpretentious service, fresh ingredients and a speedy kitchen that can turn out gorgeous perfectly timed meals with minimum waiting. Prices were not cheap, but were entirely reasonable for such a great place.

We have a home near Saratoga Springs, NY, where the fine restaurants are legion, but I told the owner that her place would be my favorite if it were located in Saratoga. No lie, it would be a stand out in our home town of Philadelphia (an eating town if ever there was one ) as well.

Specifics--a gorgeous beet and arrugala salad with walnuts and blue chese, complimentary olives and sourdough bread, a nifty wine list (try the Prosecco), lamb tangine with cous cous. My wife had naked ravioli and wild salmon. My sister had mussels with french fries. We also tried the spinach cooked in oil and garlic as a side. We shared an unusual fried riccota cheese desert. Our waitress promised that the chocalate bombe was an unsurpassed bittersweet delight with rum raisin ice cream, but we couldn't find the room. Ice creams and sorbets are homemade.

Everything we ate was perfect. The staff could not have been more pleasant or more helpful. If you're anywhere within an hour's drive, this place is well worth the trip. If you're staying in or around Poultney, I can guarantee that your first visit won't be your last.