You can't help but be taken by the drama of the Grove's soaring ceilings and its wall of windows that look out onto Houston's new downtown Discovery Green park. The menu confected by Houston's much-beloved Shiller-Del Grande restaurant group is, unfortunately, less awe-inspiring. While I was impressed to find a thoughtful and extensive list of interesting starters (duck meatballs are delicious), the meal quickly loses steam with downright uninventive offerings in the entree category. The kitchen is confident and execution doesn't seem to be a problem, but rotisserie chicken isn't rocket science. Gripes aside, the Grove will likely fare well due in no small part to its location directly across from the George R. Brown convention center. We non-conventioneers who aren't lampooned in downtown Houston scavaging for something to eat on a Friday night might be better served by seeking out food with a little more soul.
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