After so many past good reviews, and evidence of a michelin rosette, we decided to visit for two nights in the first week in June, with stunning weather (best for 10 years in Scottish Highlands). We checked that the chef had not changed. But we had not realised that the previously much-in-evidence owner had sold up to an "absentee owner". When we arrived, we felt really done.
The room was across the car park from the main room. There was no telephone concierge, so to obtain room service we had to get dressed and walk into the main house, ring the bell, and wait up to 5 minutes for a response. Tea trays, food tray leftovers, and ice buckets not collected from the room till after breakfast the following morning. The bed had extremely noisy bedsprings, the wardrobe door wouldn;t shut.There was a yellow-stained split in the ceiling above the bed. The roofing material was turf, but it happened to be extremely dry weather when we stayed, thank goodness. The bathroom shelves all sloped away from the wall, so items fell off in the middle of the night with a crash. Pets were allowed in the rooms. So we were woken by barking from the next room, at 0230. Then, unable to sleep, we were unable to make a cup of tea - no kettle, no teamaking stuff in the rooms. To make a request for a pot of tea required - yes - getting dressed and walking over to the main building and ringing on the bell. There was no information pack in the room, so we didn;t know if there even was a concierge? Who can say? Never found out.
The food was extremely disappointing. Unimaginatively prepared and presented, large but plain portions of cold seafood, claws crushed in amateurish blunt force, not correctly cracked open, so meat couldn't be retrieved; no table crushers, one tiny ramekin as a finger bowl for two people, no spare napkins after finger bowls; main course heavily over-spiced, unsubtle, with grey unappetising duck, overwhelmed by cinnamon, fennel, and celeriac, and garlic, and apple, the meat simply tasted of nothing at all. The menu said nothing of the spice fennel and celeriac content, so mediocre wine choice at enormous markup (eg Cissac 1996 current market price £14.00 duty paid was priced at £49) was hopeless at matching the food. Desserts were 80s style cream-rich puds on sweet trolley, globbed on the plate with a distinct lack of finesse. The first night, staff were unable to list the cheeses, nor able to say correctly which were unpasteurised, and whether goats, ewes, or cows' cheese. The second night, when they had obviously decided to smarten up a bit, they were better, but it was an embarrasment to have to sit through the strained efforts of the serving staff explaining which dessert or cheese was what. The beef carpaccio was served as a huge single slice which looked like a roadkill. It tasted very nice.
The atmosphere gave the overwhelming impression of poor management, lack of briefing, poor attention to detail in every way, and poor kitchen ambition. Perhaps a symptom of "absentee onwership"?? We were so disappointed by the first might's meal, that we asked the lead waiter on the first night who the chef was, and whether he had prepared the food, and whether he was the one that had been awarded the michelin rosette. The waiter said the chef was "Chris with a double-barrelled surname, I forget". Erm. Really? Head waiter doesn't know who the chef is? Just about sums up the place now.
Packed lunch the next day was smoked salmon sandwich with cream cheese, a tomato, and a soft rotten apple, and a thermos of orange juice. For £10.00. The sandwich bread was cut so thick that even after discarding one of the slabs, the open sandwich was so dry it stuck in my throat.
We honestly couldn't see where a michelin rosette could be found. Gone past it's expiry date, I think.
For £170.00 per night for two, plus £104 for two for the single-sitting set menu (no a la carte) plus drinks, it was excessively overpriced for the performance, and easily the worst two nights we had spent in a two week tour of Scotland. Beautiful location, true. But if you want to go somewhere really really nice for the same sort of price, try Monachyle Mhor Hotel in the Trossachs, or Three Chimneys in Skye. Neither has a Michelin Rosette, but are orders of magnitude more heavenly than this flawed place which our experience suggests may already be living on its past reputation. I have no hesitation in recommending an immediate review by the Michelin Inspectors.






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