Chumbe Island is without question one of the most special places I have had the fortune of staying at.
A tiny coral island a couple of miles off the coast of Unguja (Zanzibar) island, and only an hour away from the bustle of Stonetown, Chumbe is a secluded tropical slice of paradise.
It is no 5-star resort, and nor does it aim to be - but is something far more special. An award-winning self-sustaining eco resort, it is often held up as one of the world leaders in sustainable tourism, and flicking through the press cuttings at the reception area just demonstrates the worldwide interest that the project has been generating over the past few years.
The accomodation comprises of just seven eco Bandas - beach hut made of local materials using local know how, open to the sea breezes and the sounds of nature. The limited number of bandas ensures that there can only be a maximum of 14 guests on the island at any one time (although this can increase if the guests have kids) - and the result is that the island never feels busy, and you are never more than a couple of minutes walk away from complete seclusion.
The Bandas, whilst basic, still contain creature comforts, including battery-powered lights and hot running water. The toilets are a drop composting affair, and whilst not entirely devoid of smell, are surprisingly effective. In all but one Banda (number 3), the bedroom is situated upstairs, with a palm front wall that can be lowered to watch the waves crashing on the beach steps away from your front door. Whilst the beds are situated underneath mosquito nets, the insect ingress here is actually far lower than is experienced and would be expected in the rest of Zanzibar, and whilst you are open to the elements, you shouldn't receive that many bites.
The island itself, being a nature reserve, is of course the main highlight of any trip to Chumbe. The sheer biodiversity on this small island, on the land and sea alike is overwhelming, and is likely to excite even the most jaded of nature enthusiasts. There are literally hundreds of species to view. From legions of tiny hermit crabs marching across the island day and night, to the giant nocturnal tree-climbing coconut crab, the crestaceous life is remarkable. But the real natural highlight lies beneath the waves. As a guest on the island you get to take part in daily activities free, of which the absolute must is a snorkelling trip. Skirting the eastern edge of the island and running for several miles, is one of East Africa's most diverse and amazing coral reef with thousands of fish, and even the odd turtle, which we were lucky enough to swim with.
What makes any stay on this island even more special however are the friendly staff, who are genuinely helpful and interested in helping you find out more about the island, or attend to your needs. From arranging private snorkelling trips, to taking you up the old lighthouse at sunset, to just sitting with you and talking for hours, they are always happy to help out and learn more about you as you learn about them. In particular I'd like to thank both Leyla and Wadi for making our trip this year extra special.
The island is full-board, and I can't fault the meals that we were cooked three times a day - tasty, hearty and varied - we were never let down and always looked forward to our mealtimes. In between meals, hot and cold drinks were provided free of charge as well.
Overall, Chumbe is a magical experience, and one that will stay with me for many years to come. Paradise doesn't have to mean 5-star facilities, and simple living in nature, listening to the sounds of birds, and watching the milky way at night can leave a far more lasting impression. If you are in Zanzibar, I would highly reccommend the extra expense to spend at least a couple of nights on Chumbe and experience this little slice of tropical paradise on earth.
