An outstanding restaurant in every way. The setting is a good clue to the style of the cuisine: Just as the restaurant, once a traditional Mexican home with a series of small rooms and courtyards, has now been made modern by its intense pinkness (even on the ceilings), sleek furnishings, and modern art photography -- the food here is a reinterpretation of elements of traditional Mexican cuisine, itself rendered cutting-edge through the introduction of techniques from Asian & European cooking, as well as molecular gastronomy. The five-course tasting meal is fixed, and changes monthly to reflect the seasons. The night we were there, the courses were steak with cilantro prepared in the style of egg rolls, with jalapeno marmalade and pulverized pumpkin seeds; a salad of roasted tomato with cheese-and-chile foam; pork with 4 chiles and cactus prepared two ways; gelati of regional fruits; and corn pastry with a shot of rompope. Everything was beautifully presented (unfortunately, my photographs were in dim light, and don't do justice to the presentation), in reasonable portions, and delicious. And as with the finest restaurants, great thought clearly went into the juxtapositions of flavors, textures, and colors of every course. The chef we spoke with, Mariano Torre, had trained with Enrique Olvera of Pujol (in DF) and La Purificadora (in Puebla), and I think that what he's doing here equals, if not surpasses, the work of his mentor.
The service is highly professional. It was friendly without being obtrusive, and if you express an interest in any of the dishes or ingredients, the chefs or servers are happy to give you explanations. This was very helpful as we weren't familiar with some of the region's fruits, and we also learned more about the restaurant's slow-food commitment to local farms and suppliers.
As mentioned by the other reviewer, it's open for dinner, by reservation only. I've eaten there twice, and already know that my next trip to Queretaro will have to be planned around this dinner reservation! The cost of the fixed price menu was around 400 pesos per person; drinks will, of course, bring the total up.
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