Unless you want to go across the river to Gadaletos in New Paltz, there has been little choice of seafood in Dutchess County. There are oysters here and there in Poughkeepsie, Rhinebeck and elsewhere; gussied up fish of varied freshness and too-sweet sauces at Hudson's or the Bonefish chain, but a real fish bistro with an inventive menu, fresh seafood and shellfish, and warmly welcoming service just hasn't existed until now. Though they have no formal connection with the Aroma/Il Barilotto empire or the CIA (Culinary Institute of America) complex, the management and service staff have benefited from past associations with each, combining smart menu ideas (an appetizer of Seared Fritake and Sesame Ahi Tuna with Lychee Mandarin Relish and Asian Pear slaw or an entree of Marinated Broiled Swordfish with Gargonzola Mash and Piked Cider Jus for instance) with topnotch service in a small (20 seat) bistro of European simplicity along Beacon's Main Street strip. There are daily specials (a spicy crab and squash soup was super!), a lunch menu for the DIA crowd (try the Oyster Po' Boy or the Hoisin-swabbed Salmon BLT), house-made desserts, and take-out service. Be sure to reserve on weekend evenings and, for now at least, take advantage of the BYOB savings while they await their beer & wine license. Closed Tuesdays.
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