I'm a purist about the Chinese food I eat. I used to eat at North China when they first opened, and after moving away and returning some years ago. We recently went in for dinner, and were dismayed that they gave up most of their dining room space (I can imagine the rent increase!) and the tiny tables are shoehorned in. Flavors are muted, the fried pot-sticker dumplings were bland, and the kitchen argument was louder than the owner's door-side conversation of the cashier's phone order-taking, all of which were louder than our table talk.
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