I assumed that Corsica, being a French province in the Mediterranean, would offer any amount of character accommodation in the gites or small hotel category, and being the end of the high season in September I imagined there would be plenty available for a last minute 4 night tour in September. I have to confess I was very disappointed. Admittedly I had left my travel plans rather late but there seemed to be very little in the way of attractive accommodation of this type to be seen at all, let alone available at short notice.
I had however pre-booked my first night on the island in good time, as I knew I would need a ‘crashpad’ on the evening of my arrival. My web choice, Casa Funtana, turned out to be a complete exception to my overall disappointment and was a real hit – it completely matched the type of comfort, personal feel and charm I had had in mind. An old stone forge, the attractive building had been sensitively modernised, and had a quiet rear courtyard with a fountain and nice garden. The interior, including my beamed bedroom, had a lovely atmosphere and the bathroom was very clean, modern and extremely well-presented. The place was only a 20-30 minute drive into the hills from Ajaccio airport so it was indeed ideal for the first night.
didn’t meet my hostess Cathy until breakfast (a lavish spread of local fare, beautifully presented and served) but the owner and host, Fred, not only greeted me warmly with a cold beer, he kindly took me under his wing and invested the next 2 hours of his time and telephone bill trying to secure me decent accommodation for the next 2 nights, albeit unsucccessfully! Thanks Fred!
So not even Fred could lock in any similar or even reasonable forward accommodation, and unfortunately (and understandably) there was no availability for another night at Casa Funtana - it would have been ideal for the evening before my flight out. So I went on to take my limited chances on the road….the next three nights were spent in an inn at Evisa (the bedroom resembled a cave), an over-priced and dull hotel in Bonifacio (with a nice outlook if you climbed onto a chair to see out the window), and a 4 bedded room in a grimy streetfront hotel in Ajaccio (which was just big enough for one!).
I should add that the island itself was beautiful, with much of the scenery, especially in the interior, absolutely breath-taking. So I would definitely encourage a visit to Corsica but be advised to book carefully and well in advance, and do not be too optimistic about economy accommodation with character – unless you get to stay at Casa Funtana which I would thoroughly recommend.