You'll arrive by boat embarking from Fernandina Beach, Fla., and will start to get the flavor of the place even before you reach The Greyfield, as the island slides by on your right, with only an occasional house or dock. It's a mystery landscape of live oaks, palmettos and Spanish moss, occasionally divulging its secrets in the form of an armadillo or fawn. A bright young staff member will give you an orientation, including a brief history of the island which is now mostly national park, then you'll settle into your beautifully furnished room or cottage. There is much to explore -- be sure to see the ruins of the old Carnegie mansion, and historic Stafford which has been kept up at great expense by its owners. (Greyfield provides bikes for its guests, and a beautiful beach -- complete with wild horses -- is only a short distance away.) This is a family-run inn with a distinctly non-corporate feel; bring the kids, or enjoy a romantic escape, it's perfect for both.